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New Build - heating and plumbing advice welcome

  • 02-10-2015 7:50pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 144 ✭✭


    hi folks,

    Going starting a new build in January 2016.
    2400 sq.foot, two storey. nothing extravagant.

    will need 13/14 rads I'm thinking.

    I hope to have a Stanley Reginald stove with back boiler (have plenty timber available) , 30-40 solar tubes on the roof, oil heating also as back up. Plenty insulation going in too.

    1) what size/type hot water cylinder do I need?
    2) should I put pipework for the back boiler in my sittingroom floor before I pour the concrete floor?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,861 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    hi folks,

    Going starting a new build in January 2016.
    2400 sq.foot, two storey. nothing extravagant.

    will need 13/14 rads I'm thinking.

    I hope to have a Stanley Reginald stove with back boiler (have plenty timber available) , 30-40 solar tubes on the roof, oil heating also as back up. Plenty insulation going in too.

    1) what size/type hot water cylinder do I need?
    2) should I put pipework for the back boiler in my sittingroom floor before I pour the concrete floor?

    Not to sound Smart, but these are questions you should be asking the plumber. If your hotpress is upstairs then no need to put pipes in ground floor.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 144 ✭✭THE DON FANUCCI


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Not to sound Smart, but these are questions you should be asking the plumber. If your hotpress is upstairs then no need to put pipes in ground floor.


    where do I run these back boiler pipes? chased up the walls?
    I don't want to be looking at them in my sitting room


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,861 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    where do I run these back boiler pipes? chased up the walls?
    I don't want to be looking at them in my sitting room

    Generally they'd be chased into the wall going up the chimney breast. Then off to the hotpress and standard rules of gravity pipe work would apply. Again, your plumber will inform you of all this


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 144 ✭✭THE DON FANUCCI


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Generally they'd be chased into the wall going up the chimney breast. Then off to the hotpress and standard rules of gravity pipe work would apply. Again, your plumber will inform you of all this


    ok cool. chase them into the chimney breast, up into the timber joist ceiling, and over to the hot press. that sounds pretty simple.

    another question..
    If I have a stove flue going up the chimney, what stops the room heat disappearing up the rest of the space in the chimney? is there some way of sealing off around the flue to stop room heat going up the chimney


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,861 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    ok cool. chase them into the chimney breast, up into the timber joist ceiling, and over to the hot press. that sounds pretty simple.

    another question..
    If I have a stove flue going up the chimney, what stops the room heat disappearing up the rest of the space in the chimney? is there some way of sealing off around the flue to stop room heat going up the chimney

    It's FAR from as simple as running the pipes up into the joists and across to the hotpress. Pipe sizing, lengths, gradients, bends all have a critical part to play in a Gravity circulation. If these rules are not followed strictly then it will not work and can be extremely unsafe and dangerous.
    The flue from the stove will be joined to the chimney with a suitable adapter.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    ^^^^^


    What DTP is trying to politely say to you is that this is not a job for the DIY'er and should be done by someone with the proper expertise.
    Trying to learn how to do this over a web thread is akin to trying to give someone a haircut over the phone.


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