Putting in doorframes?

eamon11

Hello Folks,

I have done a good bit of carpentry and am quite handy at it however I have never put in doorframes. Its a very old bungalow which has been gutted and is being renovated.Old frames are out and a foot extra was knocked out over the old frame as the doors were very low.
I do not have the doors yet but the plasterer needs to get started.The doors will be 32 inches x 80 inches. How much of clearance should be left between frame and door? Is a 32 inch door exactly 32 inches?
if anyone can give me any tips please, they would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

DublinDilbert

eamon11 wrote: »

Hello Folks,

I have done a good bit of carpentry and am quite handy at it however I have never put in doorframes. Its a very old bungalow which has been gutted and is being renovated.Old frames are out and a foot extra was knocked out over the old frame as the doors were very low.
I do not have the doors yet but the plasterer needs to get started.The doors will be 32 inches x 80 inches. How much of clearance should be left between frame and door? Is a 32 inch door exactly 32 inches?
if anyone can give me any tips please, they would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Yea I made up a few frames, in some ways its easier when replacing the frames and doors at the same time as you shouldn't need to trim / plane the door on the side or bottom.

You can buy frame kits from most builder providers or B&Q and these will have cuts for the correct with in the top piece. Or you can just make them up, the ones I did we made from scratch. Make sure you know what your floor coverings will be so you can leave enough clearance, and if your going to leave a door saddle etc... I would get rid of door saddles if at all possible.

When I was making up the frames the opening for the door was the width of the door plus 4 or 5mm. The walls either side of the frame won't be straight/level, so you'll need to shim the frame when fixing it to the wall. A long spirit level is a must to make sure the frame is perpendicular in every dimension.


There's loads of youtube videos on doing it, that's how I learnt.

• Assemble frame on floor and check clearances.
• Attach the hinged side
• Make sure bottom of hinged side post is say 5mm or so off the floor level.
• Get hinged side level in both planes
• Fix hinged side with some frame fixings/screws + shims are required.
• Now move the non hinged side up/down so the top of the door frame is level
• Fix in non-hinged side, again use shims as required. Make sure this side is also level.
• Check width all the way down the door.

eamon11

thanks Dilbert,

do you know if doors 32 x 80 inches are exactly that?

cheers

endasmail

yes
32" doors are 32" by 80"
30" doors are 30" by 78"

dashcamdanny

I always made my frames 3/16 bigger . Once the hinge side of the door gets back planed they should close perfectly.

whizbang

My 30in doors were exactly 30in when fitted. Not now. A few years of paint will quickly add up when you add 4 layers every time you repaint.

i would go with a Minimum of 5mm or 1/4in gap (for both sides), but even 1/4in gap each side doesn't look bad if its straight and even.

If your doors are set deep in the frame you will need extra clearance.

dashcamdanny

If its a new door just out of the plastic, don't leave a minimum 5mm!.. Definitely not on both sides!! That 1/2 of a clearance which would look odd as well as probably missing the door stops. The hinge side margin will be set by the clearance of the hinge. Which is usually 1/8 or less.

Most doors shrink down by as much as another 3/16 once they hit the house heat. Or i if its a new house (or an old plastered house) with wet walls they can got either way, big or small.



The way to go is tight margins , and readjust and touch up paint to perfect on a snag list after everything is done.

Its up to you

DublinDilbert

My 4-5mm of clearance was for a pre-finished door which had been sitting in the house for a few weeks. I wouldn't fit anything other than pre-finished doors these days, the thoughts of having to paint doors :mad:

basillarkin

You could also fit door liners first and fit the frames after the plaster is finished. This will stop the frames getting excess plaster on them and general damage that can happen in a first fix especially if they are going to be oak/walnut