drylining and old cottage

shugy

Were all in the process of helping out my brother in law to get his cottage into better living conditions than it is now. Its in some state and the family are all chipping in with some money and free labor. There is 3 exterior walls needing seen to and with our budget, we are thinking about dry lining these to sort of keep the damp away. We know this will not eliminate it but its the best we can come up with for now seeing as were low on funds.

What we want to know, what's the best method of doing this. We are thinking 2x2s or even 4x2s with breathable felt between the wall and timber. We will plasterboard out with12mm plasterboard that has the silverfoil on back. We will run some breathable felt under the plasterboard where meets the floor and cover this with dpc under the new screed. Would this be a viable option.

Another thing, is there any fixings that we can attach the new stud wall to the exterior stone wall without bringing some damp across .

Any constructive advice greatly appreciated

Bonzo Delaney

Google the isover optima system

TopTec

I think you need to sort out the issue regarding damp before you decide the insulation method. My old cottage has stone walls and was running in water when I bought the place a few years ago.

One I stabilised the walls and solved the damp issues.... guttering and ventilation were the main problems.... I lined the inside of the exterior walls with 90mmm insulated boards with foil backs straight onto the walls with mushroom fixings.

The roofs were done with insulated slabs between the rafters and then 40mmm boards onto the joists.

Never had a problem since and the cottage is toasty warm.

TT

shugy

TopTec wrote: »

I think you need to sort out the issue regarding damp before you decide the insulation method. My old cottage has stone walls and was running in water when I bought the place a few years ago.

One I stabilised the walls and solved the damp issues.... guttering and ventilation were the main problems.... I lined the inside of the exterior walls with 90mmm insulated boards with foil backs straight onto the walls with mushroom fixings.

The roofs were done with insulated slabs between the rafters and then 40mmm boards onto the joists.

Never had a problem since and the cottage is toasty warm.

TT

Can they be sorted thou because old stone cottages don't have DPC like block and brick built and rising damp can occur

MicktheMan

TopTec wrote: »

Never had a problem since .

Maybe; but who's to say you won't in 5 or 10 years?

MicktheMan

shugy wrote: »

Can they be sorted thou because old stone cottages don't have DPC like block and brick built and rising damp can occur

Not unless you intend using a breathable insulation such as calsitherm.

shugy

MicktheMan wrote: »

Not unless you intend using a breathable insulation such as calsitherm.

How can a breathable insulation stop the already damp problems

MicktheMan

shugy wrote: »

How can a breathable insulation stop the already damp problems

I never said it would "stop the already damp problems". You can't. But you must work with it rather than against it.

TheLastMohican

Hi shugy!
This is the way I sorted my pretty identical situation.
Knocked off all the old plaster, loose stuff etc and skudded the walls with 1:1 washed Sand:Cement.
Floated 1/2" of 2:1 plus waterproofer and closed it in.
Skudded again with 2.5:1
Floated out with 3:1 plus waterproofer
Kept the plastering very straight and then, after the plaster dried, used adhesive to stick polyeurathane backed plasterboard to walls before skimming.
100% after about 11 years.

Regardless of how you do it, all the best

PS. The reason for the polyeurathane was to stop the dense plaster from sweating.

shugy

TheLastMohican wrote: »

Hi shugy!
This is the way I sorted my pretty identical situation.
Knocked off all the old plaster, loose stuff etc and skudded the walls with 1:1 washed Sand:Cement.
Floated 1/2" of 2:1 plus waterproofer and closed it in.
Skudded again with 2.5:1
Floated out with 3:1 plus waterproofer
Kept the plastering very straight and then, after the plaster dried, used adhesive to stick polyeurathane backed plasterboard to walls before skimming.
100% after about 11 years.

Regardless of how you do it, all the best

PS. The reason for the polyeurathane was to stop the dense plaster from sweating.

Sounds like a plan but wouldnt making a cavity with some timber not of been better because you just never know whats going on behind that plasterboard. I

TheLastMohican

shugy wrote: »

Sounds like a plan but wouldnt making a cavity with some timber not of been better because you just never know whats going on behind that plasterboard. I

OK. But don't use nails/screws for the battens. Stick them.