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Can you identify these components

  • 26-08-2015 12:41am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭


    Hello all,

    Anyone got some insight into what these components are. They are from the control board of my Nilfisk extreme vacum cleaner which stopped working yesterday after I switched it off normally and when I went to switch it back on it was dead (no lights on, nothing) and there was no bang no smell no puff of smoke.

    The one on the left I think is an electrolytic cap (it is bulged on both sides and cracked underneath and the PCB had a + sign next to the left hand pin) but what value of capacitance I don't know.

    The righ one is a burned out resister of I think 220 ohms but I'm not sure as I am not great with colours and the colours are faded alot.

    Any educated guesses?

    Many thanks

    359998.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,175 ✭✭✭Doge


    The capacitor has a value of 1 microFarad and a tolerance of 10%.

    What do the colours look like on the resistor?

    Its hard to tell from the pic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    Im not good with colours (worse than useless in fact) so I can't tell but two people I asked gave me black and possible red/brown.

    I'll try that value cap and a low value/high power resister and see what happens. I not getting anything with what I've tried so far.

    Might end up ripping the whole board out and fitting a speed controller I took from another vacum cleaner so that I can keep this running for another while.

    Don't like the thought of buying a new one especially since they have been reduced in power - thanks alot EU rules.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 883 ✭✭✭Keplar240B


    I was thinking this the other day as i was sorting out loose pile of resistors i had Why don't print small numbers on resistors if they can print colored circles?

    If I had to guess I say
    4 band code
    Brown 1
    grey 8
    orange *1000
    tolerance on right

    18000 ohms.

    If it was 220 it would be
    Red 2
    Red 2
    Brown *10

    which is also possible.

    why do you think its 220 ohms?
    I googled imaged nilfisk extreme control board got this
    IS that it looks like? bit fussy but looke like red red brown to me or 220ohms?
    Did you check it with a ohm meter?
    What the exact model number of vacumm?

    nilfisk_extreme_x150_x210_main_pcb_asembly_1470280500_.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    The cap is a non polarised polyester. The resistor you might be able to check with a ohm meter looks like a 2W.

    If the components were in series with each other and parallel to the motor brushes they're non-essential, it should still run albeit rough without them.

    Check the fuse and brushes too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    Keplar240B wrote: »
    I was thinking this the other day as i was sorting out loose pile of resistors i had Why don't print small numbers on resistors if they can print colored circles?

    If I had to guess I say
    4 band code
    Brown 1
    grey 8
    orange *1000
    tolerance on right

    18000 ohms.

    If it was 220 it would be
    Red 2
    Red 2
    Brown *10

    which is also possible.

    why do you think its 220 ohms?
    I googled imaged nilfisk extreme control board got this
    IS that it looks like? bit fussy but looke like red red brown to me or 220ohms?
    Did you check it with a ohm meter?
    What the exact model number of vacumm?

    nilfisk_extreme_x150_x210_main_pcb_asembly_1470280500_.jpg


    That's the one Keplar240B very good googling there:)

    The resistor burnt out so I couldn't measure it but that's it there in the buttom left on the photo of the board.

    The whole thing is destroyed now thanks to my subbing what components with nearest values I could scrounge but I suspect something else was wrong with it since nothing was happenning no matter what I did - maybe the triac was gone perhaps. I was just focusing on the cap as it was bulged and an obvious suspect.

    Looks like I'll be going with my spare speed controller board (looks similar in size to the one you posted) which came from an equally powered old machine. In fact the motor currently in use was also taken from the old machine when the original burned out so will work just as good. All I need to add is a dpst switch.

    Really appreciate you taking the time to post, cheers.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    The cap is a non polarised polyester. The resistor you might be able to check with a ohm meter looks like a 2W.

    If the components were in series with each other and parallel to the motor brushes they're non-essential, it should still run albeit rough without them.

    Check the fuse and brushes too.

    Sir Liamalot

    The motor is ok it was the board shown above that was the problem but is beyond repair now unfortunately thanks to my circuit bending:eek:

    Thanks for the suggestion anyway - all knowledge is good!

    Now to implement plan b.

    Cheers


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Papa_Bear wrote: »
    All I need to add is a dpst switch.

    ;)

    A parallel non polarising cap would be a polite addition for the sake of your power quality. It'll reduce line noise and brush sparking.

    Here's one I prepared earlier (complete with NC thermoswitch)
    DSC_13601_zpslabinaqy.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    Not to worry Sir Liamalot there's one on my speed controller.

    Much appreciated.


    360213.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you wanna go the whole hog you could use someat like this.

    Line%20filter_zpsctckyt8r.jpg

    It's a line filter I salvaged from a microwave.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1 Pinguin


    With me: the nilfisk just stopped After tuning it off. Dissasembled it, and only replaced the power transistor with an 240 ohm 5w resistor and it started working Again.


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