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New Downstairs Radiator Not Heating

  • 24-08-2015 11:03am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭


    I recently had a wall taken out between the kitchen and dining room, the radiators either side of the wall were removed and capped in the ceiling as the pipes came from the ceiling down, the new radiator on the old dining room wall is being feed from junctions put into the pipes of the radiator in the bedroom above the old dining room.

    Now I've bleed all the radiators, made sure the lock value on the end of the radiator is fully open and I've also turned off all other radiators in the house and turned on the heating to get all the pressure sent to the new radiator but it still wont heat up.

    If I bleed the radiator I can feel heat in the return pipe ( I think its the return pipe, it doesn't have the heat control knob on it, its the end I opened the lock value fully.)

    All other radiators are red hot when the heating is on.

    Any suggestions of what I can try or what might be the problem?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Ziycon wrote: »
    I recently had a wall taken out between the kitchen and dining room, the radiators either side of the wall were removed and capped in the ceiling as the pipes came from the ceiling down, the new radiator on the old dining room wall is being feed from junctions put into the pipes of the radiator in the bedroom above the old dining room.

    Now I've bleed all the radiators, made sure the lock value on the end of the radiator is fully open and I've also turned off all other radiators in the house and turned on the heating to get all the pressure sent to the new radiator but it still wont heat up.

    If I bleed the radiator I can feel heat in the return pipe ( I think its the return pipe, it doesn't have the heat control knob on it, its the end I opened the lock value fully.)

    All other radiators are red hot when the heating is on.

    Any suggestions of what I can try or what might be the problem?

    Turn off all the working rads, but also turn off the balancing valve at the bottom of the cylinder. ( red wheel valve )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    I have all working radiators turned off and I have the 'top up' supply turned off in the hotpress. I turned on the heating and pulled up the floor boards where the new radiator was joined and there is heat going to the existing radiator in the bedroom above the new radiator but where the new join in the flow pipe is the heat just disappears about 2/3 inches into the new pipe, blockage maybe!?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    If its not done that long ago why not get whoever installed it back to look at it for you.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Ziycon wrote: »
    I have all working radiators turned off and I have the 'top up' supply turned off in the hotpress. I turned on the heating and pulled up the floor boards where the new radiator was joined and there is heat going to the existing radiator in the bedroom above the new radiator but where the new join in the flow pipe is the heat just disappears about 2/3 inches into the new pipe, blockage maybe!?

    Did you not follow dtp1979 instructions?,what valve did you turn off in the hot press?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    If its not done that long ago why not get whoever installed it back to look at it for you.
    Their coming out early next week to have a look, just want to say I've tried x,y & z to helpfully speed up the process. And also learn in the process in case it happens again in the future and can be remedied if it's just bleeding, balancing, nothing that requires a plumber.
    agusta wrote: »
    Did you not follow dtp1979 instructions?,what valve did you turn off in the hot press?
    I did what I could take from dtp1979's post, there is no cylinder on the boiler, the only cylinder in the house is the hotpress and I made an assumption that the balancing valve was the valve used to top-up the heating system with water if required. I could be completely off/wrong hence why I'm here asking for advice. All valves in the house are levers, there are no 'red wheel valves'.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Ziycon wrote: »
    Their coming out early next week to have a look, just want to say I've tried x,y & z to helpfully speed up the process. And also learn in the process in case it happens again in the future and can be remedied if it's just bleeding, balancing, nothing that requires a plumber.


    I did what I could take from dtp1979's post, there is no cylinder on the boiler, the only cylinder in the house is the hotpress and I made an assumption that the balancing valve was the valve used to top-up the heating system with water if required. I could be completely off/wrong hence why I'm here asking for advice. All valves in the house are levers, there are no 'red wheel valves'.

    There should be a red wheel valve on the pipe going into the bottom of your cylinder in the hotpress. Close this along with all working rads and fire the boiler. Take a pic of the hotpress pipe work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    There should be a red wheel valve on the pipe going into the bottom of your cylinder in the hotpress. Close this along with all working rads and fire the boiler. Take a pic of the hotpress pipe work
    Found the valve you were talking about at the bottom of the cylinder, it is already closed, so no difference when I put the heating on with all working rads turned off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Ziycon wrote: »
    Found the valve you were talking about at the bottom of the cylinder, it is already closed, so no difference when I put the heating on with all working rads turned off.

    If it was already off then you'd have no hot water. Did u turn it fully clockwise?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    Thanks for all your help Dtp1979. ;)

    Do you mean no hot water from when the heating is running? If that's what you mean then yes that is correct, we always have to use the immersion to heat up the water in the cylinder, should this valve be open to allow the heating heat the cylinder water?

    There are three pipes going into the cylinder, one at the top and one on the bottom right, and one on the bottom left that has the red wheel valve that was and still is closed.

    Still no luck with the new radiator though, could it be a bad join on the new radiator pipe or a blockage?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Ziycon wrote: »
    Thanks for all your help Dtp1979. ;)

    Do you mean no hot water from when the heating is running? If that's what you mean then yes that is correct, we always have to use the immersion to heat up the water in the cylinder, should this valve be open to allow the heating heat the cylinder water?

    There are three pipes going into the cylinder, one at the top and one on the bottom right, and one on the bottom left that has the red wheel valve that was and still is closed.

    Still no luck with the new radiator though, could it be a bad join on the new radiator pipe or a blockage?

    Yes that valve should be open 1 turn then your oil/gas will heat the cylinder. Maybe you've a bad airlock


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Yes that valve should be open 1 turn then your oil/gas will heat the cylinder. Maybe you've a bad airlock
    Thanks, appreciate all your help, the guy who put it in is coming out tomorrow so hopefully he'll get to the bottom of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,987 ✭✭✭Ziycon


    Turns out it was the thermostat on the radiator in the end as it was faulty.


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