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This Kerry Womans Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago de Compostela 2015

  • 21-08-2015 11:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭


    Only back a few days from Cycling my own Personal Camino de Santiago, cycling over 300km. It's a Very Personal Journey where whether you walk or cycle, you will suffer at some point(s) ; you will transform in some personal way ; you will view the World in a Much Better Light than before you commenced ; you will be overcome with Emotion, more than once as you complete your own Personal Camino de Santiago and receive your Compostela at the end.

    This was My Journey.
    Any questions, feel free to either post them here or send them on & I will answer if I can.

    Hope You Take Some Positives from the following,
    Thanks,
    kerry4sam


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    l5fEGPy.jpg Europe was made on the Pilgrim Road to Compostela

    Parked my car at a Hotel carpark in Dublin and availed of the complementary shuttle bus to DublinAirport. Bus arrived within minutes and flew with IberiaExpress to Madrid. First-time flying with Iberia Express and will fly again should the opportunity arise. We arrived in Madrid 10mins early on my flight out ; on my return flight we arrived 15mins early. With my return flight it was from Santiago de Compostela to Dublin via Madrid. Before I landed in Madrid for my connecting flight I had received an e-mail from IberiaExpress informing me of my connecting area & gate number and no issues with my luggage either. Just Wonderful Service. The only negative is with me being 5'10" the legroom was somewhat tight during the flight. Still slept though so it wasn't that uncomfortable :)

    Once arriving in Madrid, I got the Bus upto León and at 10pm, on arriving at my accommodation, first things first - get my bike, my New Trusted Steed all set-up out of the box it was in. I brought my own LookKeo pedals and road-shoes ; and ladies, don't forget your gel-saddle also ;) Wonderful Invention!
    I had arranged for luggage transfers daily and had pre-booked my accommodation so that was re-assuring. I was glad I didn't really know the terrain that lay ahead each day so just powered through as each twist and turn and ascent and decent appeared.

    jRwIGYt.jpg

    On waking the on the first mornings cycle, after I had my breakfast at 8am, it was a case of fit my now-full panniers onto my Trusted Steed ; the nerves and anxiety had turned into excitement and wonder. All set now for my first Cycling Holier Adventure Abroad ; all set now for my Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago to Compostela 2015!

    Santiago de Compostela is known as the culmination of the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Route. It is the alleged burial site of the apostle St. James whose remains lie within the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela, consecrated in 1211.
    Before commencing I had my Pilgrim Passport. That has to be stamped throughout the Journey to signify and prove you have actually either cycled min of 200km or walked a min of 100km of the Camino. You can receive your 'Sello' or 'St. James' Stamp' at Churches, Accommodations, Shops, Restaurants etc en route, I received 2 Stamps on my Pilgrim Passport daily and It really is lovely now looking at my complete Pilgrim Passport alongside my Letter of Completion in Latin :)

    I had read about the abduction of the American Lady here. Denise Thiem, a Solo Pilgrim on the Camino, from Arizona, was last Seen on April 4th 2015 and there has been no sound nor trace since. I was also reminded by fellow pilgrims of this , where it states another Pilgrim had encountered an incident with a stun-gun, but managed to escape.

    You can get yourself ready in terms of basic prep, but awareness of your surroundings; having that piece of extra knowledge that whilst your intentions are pure ; while your goal is pure ; it can all turn in moments. I had read that increased Police presence would be found and seen on the Camino but I never saw it. I saw one random Police patrol en route to Santiago but once in Santiago then the Police were everywhere; even driving the real narrow Pilgrim Paths used by both walkers & cyclists. Lovely to see tbh but more presence would have been re-assuring en route to Santiago!

    Don't think any update has been released on Denise, God Love Her!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Today was the flattest section of the French Way that I Cycled.

    What a feeling! My first time on this type of bike also as it's primarily a racer I use, but I must now try save for one of these bikes - super fun!
    Didn't see much of León after arriving at my accommodation at 10pm ; got my bike all set-up first before getting my panniers arranged ; pack my main luggage for transfer ; relax my mind before the Journey that I was about to embark on,

    Thought my first challenge would be cycling on the other side of the road to what I am used to in Ireland ; now cycling on the other side of the road, maneuvering the traffic-lights, crossings, junctions, roundabouts etc, but it was actually getting myself out of León. Luckily a few others were setting off at same time so I hooked up behind them and played the pied-piper out of the City.

    Only 298km left until this Kerry woman reaches Santiago de Compostela.
    FUeDauU.jpg The Yellow Arrow, one continuous symbol that Guides You

    I opted to stay on the main road today as wanted a nice start to my Journey. This personal journey, my personal Camino was more than needed, now that I think about it looking back. Don't know if it's just me or other cyclists, but whenever I put on my cycling gear and get on a bike I just feel more confident; feel more assertive; just feel more in control of My Way.

    Met up & Saw a few other cyclists on this route but far far more walkers.
    A few cyclists en route on Day#1 & Groups of Walkers arriving into Astorga
    gcMnzUd.jpgHbBSXt1.jpg

    Astorga was Simply Beautiful. Just look at the image below that welcomed me into the town. Stage#1 certainly received a thumbs up from this Kerry Woman anyways. Just a Lovely Start for me :)

    lLVyX5l.jpg Welcoming Scallop Shell in Astorga
    Of all the meanings to be found behind the Scallop Shell, my Favourite is :
    The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims travelled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of St.James in Santiago de Compostela.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Cycled what was one seriously demanding days cycle for me, but was also the most Rewarding Day I've ever had on a Cycle!
    6E7pRY8.jpg0PlHtUw.jpg

    That climb, that super-tough climb in that altitude. This Camino Climb up past Rabanal del Camino and Foncebadón, climbing up an altitude of 1500m above sea-level was more than I'd ever climbed on a bike over such a short distance. The lack of oxygen got to me and the extreme, exposed weather conditions got to me; I was sniveling with the climbing and the cold. Next I knew my tissue came back red - I had gotten a bloody nose from the conditions. If I stopped on the ascent I wouldn't have been able to get back on the bike. At first I tried sitting upright pinching my nose but the bleeding wouldn't stop. Eventually pulled two pieces of tissue and stuffed my nose. I needed to maintain balance and even my weight and that of my panniers on this climb. Never experienced anything like this.
    Next I knew : I had taken this turn and all pain, aches, everything negative had gone. I was overcome with this Peace and I welled up. There it was! El Cruz de Ferro. I had seen pictures, had read & heard about it, saw it in a favourite movie of mine 'The Way', but nothing, nothing prepared me for this site. Emotional Moment for this Kerry Woman.
    My Mom had given me a stone, illuminating stone, from Home that I kissed and threw at the base of the Cross before climbing up myself for a photo or two.
    El Cruz de Ferro was erected on a huge pile of stones left by Pilgrims to signify the unloading of the burden of sins by all.

    dmIPf0l.jpg A Proud Boardsie at El Cruz de Ferro

    Loads of Friendly Cyclists on the roads today. Done some off-roading on the main Pilgrim path today but delighted I remained on the main road for this section of the climb.

    WNSR6ki.jpg <- Look at the mounds of Rocks from Years & Years of Pilgrims.

    This was some of the nicest surface on the off-roading below
    HuGo6me.jpg Was taking a rest when fellow pilgrims caught up with me so here's me looking all focused & ready

    The climb to El Cruz de Ferro was not the summit, that was further on after the road dipped and climbed several times more.
    The decent through Manjarin & El Acebo has actually claimed Cyclist's lives through the years and the route itself was just so exposed and I was isolated for some time. I truly tried to keep pilgrims in sight either on the path or on the main road, but not always possible.
    Everyone is on their own Journey but everyone wants to remain Safe and Complete their Camino to Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims talk and remind each other daily of incidents from previous and of anything they saw from this period on the Camino. Just Wonderful Support for each other.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Started my cycling today with three Spaniards Ismael, Carlos & Jezus as we made our way out of Ponferrada.
    7vlzfgB.jpg My Three Amigos

    These guys were just super fun. We met a few times throughout my Camino actually and always a smile and good humour! This photo was actually taken at Alto de Poyo where we met the second time. They couldn't find accommodation in OCebreiro so had to continue climbing to there before resting for the night!
    Today started as a Lovely route across the Valley of El Bierzo in the province of Castilla y León. Had the mountains surrounding for most of the days cycle, before reaching the red earth wine making region where I cycled the main Pilgrim path through the vineyards. Just Amazing sites. You wouldn't feel the continuous hills with the scenery around you.
    Entered VillaFranca del Bierzo then where I came across this Piece of Art sitting on the main bridge out of the town
    5Yamfej.jpg This is the Way - follow the direction of the Staff Walking Stick


    Once leaving this lively town I climbed some more through the slender valley of the river Valcace before tackling the committing incline of O Cebreiro, between the mountain ranges of Os Ancares and Serra do Courel.

    nSosGLc.jpg The main Pilgrim Path

    On the main road at one point were two markings and I should've stayed on the main road as this Pilgrim Path was a nightmare to cycle so did walk a bit here. Also met some lovely pilgrim walkers incl Yoko from Japan who started her Camino in St.Jean Piet de Port. Just unreal dedication. I rejoined the main road the moment I got the chance. It was a near desserted road ; just straight up ; no one to ask for help if help was needed and no-where to pull over and catch your breath. You just keep peddling onwards and upwards.

    O Cebreiro though just stole my heart. It is a unique village set high in the Cantabrian Mountains with only about a dozen houses. In one of the shops I was buying some gifts for family & also my local bike mechanic asked for a postcard which I bought here. The owner asked if I needed a stamp & where to. Once I said Irlande, his son handed me this pin with the Camino Symbol and the Irish Flag. Just filled up with emotion. Such Kindness, such un-expected Warmth that made my days up, up, up & up some more climbing seem like nothing, no pain to be had at this point.

    uzsBj4B.jpg On my backpack: Camino Shell, Cyclist Pin and my Beautiful Thoughtful Gift.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Cycled today in shocking weather, as you can see from the climbs at the two main altitude points. My Cycling today took me out of the Galician Mountains.

    9QxyiTs.jpg Alto do San Roque 1270m
    1MegkeV.jpg Alto to Poio 1335m

    wOtBP8i.jpg Stunning Artwork at Alto de San Roque. Shame about the Dense Fog detracting from it!

    Was seriously lucky for it to be a Sunday as the roads were quiet.

    b7rKXS2.jpg With the 7% gradient decent for over 1000m at a time, each time.

    Tried to stay on the hard shoulder of the main road but with the dense fog if I hit a cats eye or a rock then I could've easily gone over the sheer drop to my right. Tried to cycle on main road trying to listen for any vehicles as they would NOT have seen me. I could barely see vehicles travelling toward me from the front.

    It was a cycling experience I don't want a repeat of. The decent in itself was grand, even around the hair-pin bends sweeping downwards, it was the lack of visibility for me to see ahead & for others sharing the road to see me that caused concern! I needed to slow right down, almost to a stop, every few kms to allow the rims on my bike to cool from the excessive braking, the constant braking. The weather along this stretch was very severe at times. Between the high winds ; dense heavy fog and driving rain which just appeared very very suddenly and gone then again equally fast!

    The main positive, aside from meeting my three Spanish Amigos again, was that with the serious decents I made it into Sarria in record time. That town could not have come soon enough for me.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Todays Cycling mixed between the main road over the Camino route and up through the woodlands on the main Pilgrim trail.

    Today was another dense foggy day when I started. Saw little to no-one in the villages I cycled through, almost deserted. It was getting quite nervy for me it was so quiet even in terms of fellow pilgrims. There were long stretches with nowhere to rest and quite a number of long tense ascents.

    7pUMqMe.jpg Belesar Dam


    Whatever way I looked back at one point I saw another cyclist on the road. He stayed with me from behind and we kept each other company then until we reached Portomartin route that crossed the Belesar Dam. This town was actually moved, stone by stone, to escape flooding when the reservoir was constructed.

    ezL8GLq.jpg
    Luis had cycled from St.Jean Piet de Port in France and was completing his Camino that day whilst I was stopping in Melide and finished in Santiago the following day. He was a breath of fresh-air for me that morning, Once here at the dam the routes got busy again with pilgrims but his company en route here was prefect for me.

    Today was physically tough, but also rewarding in that I found a Peaceful Church in Palas de Rei. This was just such a humble little town.
    What surprised me, really started today, was the reaction by those I met when they found out a female Solo Cyclist was cycling from León to Santiago de Compostela, and even more surprised to hear Irlande. I just felt proud each & every time I said it.
    Although I was cycling my Journey Solo, I was never really alone for long. Always met up with others like Luis (French) above;

    HYcjYQU.jpg Fernando (Portuguese)

    & also IOI3pQv.jpg Fernando from Burgos

    who I completed this stage with as we headed to the 58km to Santiago marker

    4mMHJlo.jpg look, said the Boardsie, only 58km to Santiago.


    When in the church in Palas de Rei, which I seemed to reach in record time after the continuous uphills & downhills ; just felt proud writing my name, writing Ireland, writing León on the book in-front of the Pastor before he Kindly stamped my Pilgrim Passport. Such a feeling taking 5mins inside to drop my shoulders, reflect and say a few prayers

    1ZW94MG.jpg St. James Way stamp inside
    J9NmF75.jpg Rvdo. Manuel Failde Cortizo

    This Reverend copied over from the book all the Pilgrims' names who signed-in, onto a sheet to pray for and make reference to in a homily in the days to come.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Cycled to Completion today but found the final 15km to be never-ending. Just wanted to reach the Cathedral so much at that stage but little did I know what lay ahead...

    This is certainly the Family-Friendly Stage with the numbers of parents with their children out in force from here. Lovely to see, mix & mingle with tbh.

    Today again I mixed between the main road and the Pilgrim track. On the main road I met up with Aleo & Claiede from Milan
    FKY3dbT.jpg

    but by taking the Pilgrim track I cycled upto Monte del Gozo where, it is said, on a good day, you can see your first view of the Cathedral of Santiago.
    The Camino today rose and fell over the rolling hills to the Mount of Joy

    kC8PlEr.jpg One final picture of Me & my Trusted Steed! Not One Mechanical on my Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago de Compostela

    w3y5xrN.jpg Certainly was the Mount of Joy

    Rolled on into Santiago de Compostela I met up again with most of those I'd met throughout my Camino which was nice to say a final FairWell & Buen Camino to All!

    Received my Certificate of Completion after having my Pilgrim Passport inspected and certified to ensure I had in fact cycled over 300km from León to Santiago de Compostela

    x6zDA5E.jpgaC5VyI3.jpg Feeling quite Proud of Myself right now!

    At the Mass held specially for every Pilgrim who has complete the Camino to Santiago to Compostela at 12noon, each country of their origin and the starting point on the Camino is called out the following day after you collect your Compostela/Letter of Completion.
    I went to the mass the day after I complete my own and was the only one from Ireland that day.

    If that were not enough, a Priest is present on the alter and reads out a Prayer of the Faithful in every language for those who had complete their Camino the previous day. A Priest read out a Prayer in English 'The Way, The Truth, The Life ... Hopefully every Pilgrim will find their Own Path, their Own Way in Life'.
    Beautiful Ending to My Personal Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago de Compostela!

    mAAjelr.jpg inside the Cathedral ... St. James

    I had initially intended to cycle this last year some months after my Late Loving Dad passed away & even planned everything right down to the distances each day and main road markers if I wanted time off the main Pilgrim path. My Heart was just not in this Journey last year but only about one month ago I pulled out all my notes. Something; Some Voice inside me just said 'Now is the time'. I felt a kind of transformation throughout this cycle and was able to make Peace on a few issues Thank God! Always felt like my Late Loving Dad was watching over me. Always felt, even as tough as it was numerous times over, always felt I would complete my Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago de Compostela 2015.

    I would like to cycle this again sometime, not solo though, but again some day God Willing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    g5SD9cf.jpg My bike on our Final Morning
    91Q3V9Y.jpg Looked like our National Park at home

    Fellow Pilgrims
    vqzaxqE.jpg Even the Family Dog brings his own backpack with his treats for his Camino
    2xw031u.jpg Wonderful Rendition of Hotel California on arrival

    Serious work done by the Locals
    nvR4NVR.jpg
    05U8k4z.jpg
    yTAbugy.jpgYy3CwYT.jpg

    Signs & Symbols common en route: This is The Way
    oZyTXk5.jpg
    QVJ4mwC.jpg
    YkMAiyh.jpg

    Some Divine Inspiration was Needed One Morning
    5MIPIxw.jpg

    Me Just passing some time in the Morning Light
    ogSzvH7.jpgIU5XCBs.jpg


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 18,659 CMod ✭✭✭✭The Black Oil


    Great report - really enjoyed reading it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 lussac


    Really enjoyed ur report and journey . Many thanks


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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 18,659 CMod ✭✭✭✭The Black Oil


    Just reading about that abduction you linked to - very sad.

    I see that you arranged luggage transfers daily and had pre-booked your accommodation. Apart from that, did you put much planning into this or have an idea of what was coming up each day?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    Just reading about that abduction you linked to - very sad.

    I see that you arranged luggage transfers daily and had pre-booked your accommodation. Apart from that, did you put much planning into this or have an idea of what was coming up each day?

    Had no choice but to plan, plan, plan. To be honest someone might see what I'd planned as excessive but when I was cycling solo; I didn't know anyone in the country; had basic Spanish going over - Lookit, I felt I needed to put extra planning in.
    ~ Planned right down to the villages/towns I would be either passing through or near: Knowing where the nearest station was ; nearest shop for anything etc etc and having their numbers wrote down in event I didn't have signal.

    ~ Having pre-booked my accommodation meant I had a guaranteed planned distance giving me re-assurance. I studied the routes in terms of road-layouts and possibilities. You'd want a certain level of street-smarts for a Journey like this. You'd want your head screwed on and you can't really tune out once you start your days cycle. Cycling on the other side of the road and having the head tuned in for everything coming toward you from sides not familiar to us here in Ireland. Roundabouts were fun though, especially with upto three-lanes and vehicles merging around you :o

    ~ Aside from having my mobile ; I had my garmin ; I had my power-bank(s) fully charged daily before setting off ; had two mobiles kept separate, charged & with credit.
    Had the route-marked on paper also and always tried to know what section of what route/road I was on. In event of needing assistance, felt it important, with my basic Spanish if I could pin myself down to a section on a route, especially in terms of something distinguishable in my surroundings, then who-ever would've been on the receiving end would know from the voice assistance was needed and I'd have done what I could to make it easier to be located.

    Just tried to think outside the box in terms of: Okay, how would I be found. How if I got a call through, how would they know where I was. Telling someone you're on x -road is no help.
    Actually where that poor crater was last seen ; on that stretch it was quite dangerous. No dwelling within site if you had time to escape ; long stretches with no-one on the pilgrim trail therefore less chance of getting help sooner rather than later ; there were dykes separating the road from the pilgrim trail so I stayed on the main pilgrim trail when I could have more opportunity to meet others with same goal as me ; huge, and I mean huge dense forests. I actually found myself thinking cycling on that section: If I got pulled into that forest then I would never be found again :(

    I didn't take on too much cycling daily. When on a bike like that with panniers, it's not conducive for speed if speed were needed. Therefore you'd need to have energy stored at all times.
    You'd try and spend some time cycling with others and you'd pass the miles in company, but seriously long stretches of alone-time, on quiet roads listening to the birds.
    It certainly was a cycling adventure.

    At the end of the day though, plenty of opportunities for anyone who wanted to strike! Plenty of long stretches of testing road. Plenty of rolling hills, constant climbing draining energy as you pedal.

    I don't know. Think I researched too much. Think I may have heard too many negative stories, even from people on same routes as me when we reached our towns daily. You're always thinking 'what if'. Then factor in the weather conditions, especially the heavy fog and the gradient descents I was cycling on. Sur anything could've happened. Then thinking hundreds cycle this yearly & while stories have been shared with you, you really do need to take some with a pinch of salt tbh.

    The locals I met though were truly lovely. The final day though when getting closer to Santiago the hooting and the waving and the salutes by the locals knowing the Journey I was on just made those nervy tense moments seem ever so distant.
    You can't really drop your guard though. You can't really kick back & enjoy it too much, especially knowing it could all turn in moments!
    You just do any & everything to keep your mind focused.
    You just do what you can really.
    At the end of the day though, I think luck plays it's part too.

    Before I left I found some local roads here with traffic pelting past and thinking if only this were quieter.
    Now that I am back after cycling in some of the quietest areas ever, I am glad for the familiar ; glad for the passing traffic.
    Though cycling here too though, luck also plays it part at times in getting you to your destination safe and sound :)

    Hope that answers your question,
    kerry4sam


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 18,659 CMod ✭✭✭✭The Black Oil


    The thread is a credit to you, thanks. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    The thread is a credit to you, thanks. :)

    There are still times now that I look at my photos, to, you know, remind myself that I did actually manage to get my ass, that bike & panniers up: 1*Category 1 ; 1* Category 2 ; 1* Category 3 ; 1* Category 4 and 4* Category 5 climbs ( see here and/or here for how they are categorised) whilst Cycling Solo. Surreal but it just goes to prove the Power of the Mind. A strong mind can carry you miles and climbing mountains :)

    Thank You for your kind words,
    kerry4sam


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 18,659 CMod ✭✭✭✭The Black Oil


    They may have found Denise Thiem's body.

    Hopefully her family have some peace now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,923 ✭✭✭vektarman


    Just saw this, great write up, reminds me of my Leon-Santiago cycle three years ago, mine was mainly on the pilgrim path, I stayed on the road climbing O cerebro though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭kerry4sam


    vektarman wrote: »
    Just saw this, great write up, reminds me of my Leon-Santiago cycle three years ago, mine was mainly on the pilgrim path, I stayed on the road climbing O cerebro though.

    Can still picture it. Can still see that never-ending road going up, up, up. Still remember taking each turn hoping before I reached that's it but seeing nothing but a continuous road ahead still climbing up.
    Seriously narrow road too, luckily very very quiet as I was, at times, trying to keep my balance. It was intense that was. Stopped at a little shop en route before it got real tense and that was the nicest can of Cold Coke I've had in years! Went down so well.
    That section was one seriously committing climb. Especially with a bike & panniers :)

    Thanks,
    kerry4sam


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 518 ✭✭✭FluffyAngel


    This is a beautfil thread,it felt like i cycled with you..
    its 6.43 and im crying ,im still trying to suss wether its your dad being with you,the whole journey you undertook,the jealousy i feel that you done it or my own inaction towards the way that reducded me to tears

    what makes it worse is that a kerrywoman has managed to make me cry
    as a Corkman ,i feel the your power !

    thank you

    and thank you again for going ,the world is a better place for your journey


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