SPC4320 - problem with bell output

zagadka

Hi Guys, I am self-installing a Siemens SPC4320 (firmware version 3.6.5) and I am having a problem getting the SAB to work.

There is no voltage between the power supplies for the internal or external bells (EX+ / EX- and IN+ / IN-). There is ~13V between each of the positives and the auxiliary 0V and a few mV between each of the negatives and the auxiliary 0V; it looks like the 0V is floating. SPC Pro does not indicate a fuse fault for either of these outputs.

Is there a setting or bridge I need to make to get an output on these terminals or is it duff? Would it be acceptable to wire the negative for the SAB to the 0V terminal rather than EX-? (The internal bell is not an issue as it is wired to an output on an expander.)

Thanks... Z

P.S. I hope that it is alright that I created a new thread on the subject; a post asking a similar question on a different thread got no replies.

KoolKid

0 v & BHO are permanently negative so you will get 13vdc across those & any +
The ext - & Int - only switch negative upon activation.
Is the expander output programmed as Internal Negative?

zagadka

Thanks for that, with your help I have got it sorted now. All working.

The issue was having was that I had the BHO and EX- connected the wrong way round. (In my defence the documentation is not the greatest!) For anyone else that it struggling to connect a Siemens SPC panel to a Pyronix Deltabell Plus here is the wiring I used:

[B]
Deltabell Terminal           --- SPC Panel Terminal	[/B]	
T (tamper) via 2.2k resistor --- TR
Eng Hold	             --- not used
STB (strobe)	             --- NO
Bell	                     --- EX-
+12V	                     --- EX+
0V                           --- BH
On panel, bridge EX- and COM
On bell bridge other tamper connection to 0V

Not sure about your terminology regarding the internal sounder. I have a Pyronix Twin Alert with both jumpers off which means it sounds when positive is applied. I have configured an NO output on the expander to switch a 12V supply. All working as expected.

One other thing; I seem to remember that you said somewhere that you don't usually recommend clients to have an alarm switch on the garage door. I was planning on doing so. Assuming I have remembered correctly, why is that? Are they unreliable or something?

Thanks... Z

KoolKid

A good contact on a garage door is fine. I wouldn't recommend shock sensors.