Headset Bearing Question

harringtonp

Top bearing shown in photo is a bit rough. Didn't try too hard but could not see how to take it out.

Anybody know if it should come out or is bedded into the frame for the life of the frame ?

And if it does come out anybody recognise the bearing type so I can get the correct new one ?

Bike is Rose Xeon

07Lapierre

Looks like it just sits on there. I'd say the corrosion is preventing it coming out. Normally you should be able to remove the bearing by simply lifting it out. The bottom one should just fall out once the fork is removed.

Once removed, clean them and the bearing sizes should be printed on them. Or just bring them to your lbs and they should be able to supply new ones.

harringtonp

07Lapierre wrote: »

Looks like it just sits on there. I'd say the corrosion is preventing it coming out. Normally you should be able to remove the bearing by simply lifting it out. The bottom one should just fall out once the fork is removed.

Once removed, clean them and the bearing sizes should be printed on them. Or just bring them to your lbs and they should be able to supply new ones.

Thanks, bottom one did fall out and is in much better condition. Will try again on the top one with a little more force.

magicbastarder

maybe try soaking it in oil first?

Esroh

Hp. The orange ring is probably a seal. Lift it off with the blade of a stanly knife. Its very thin and you dont want to bend it so be gentle ;-)

-K2-

That looks like a cartridge bearing which has fallen apart. The upper piece in your hand should be attached to the lower section as a single unit, kinda like this

Sometimes etched on the side of the bearing casing is the specification of the part, although with that amount of corrosion it may not be possible to read it. Best course of action would be to contact Rose technical support to get the exact bearing specification for the model of bike - there are dozens of variables.

onthefringe

harringtonp wrote: »

Top bearing shown in photo is a bit rough. Didn't try too hard but could not see how to take it out.

Anybody know if it should come out or is bedded into the frame for the life of the frame ?

And if it does come out anybody recognise the bearing type so I can get the correct new one ?

Bike is Rose Xeon

a bit rough??? must be like gravel!
as last poster said i think its a split cartridge bearing

good advive from a previous post to soak the headtube/bearing meeting point first..
very easy to damage headtube if you go at it with tools and " force" to get it out!!

harringtonp

Hi Guys,

Sent off the following question to Rose

"Would you be able to find out the exact bearing specification for me so I can look into getting a new one ?"

and got this response

"upper/lower has same specifications as shown here:

http://www.rosebikes.com/article/dartmoor-blink-is42is52-fully-integrated-road-headset/aid:809579 "

If you could look at the link it only shows a photo of one item. But the text suggests I would be getting an upper bearing, lower bearing and some other bits and bobs for my 44.90. Would this be your interpretation too ?

Would it be the case that if I can make out some identification on the upper broken bearing after getting it out that I may be able to find just the bearing itself from a bearing manufacturer ? Do people do this or is it generally the case that you need to purchase the whole replacement kit ?

07Lapierre

harringtonp wrote: »

http://www.rosebikes.com/article/dartmoor-blink-is42is52-fully-integrated-road-headset/aid:809579 "

?

That's the complete headset...you only need the bearings.

-K2-

07Lapierre wrote: »

That's the complete headset...you only need the bearings.

The OP could just order the top bearing on its own, the spec is given on the rosebikes webpage:

Upper bearing:
· outer Ø: 41.8 mm
· inner Ø: 30.5 mm
· height: 8 mm
· bearing angle: 45° x 45°

I've ordered similar bearings from here: http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/ . Have a search there for the exact spec. given by Rose above.

If you are going to fit this yourself then have a search for videos on how to adjust the headset correctly: too tight and the bearings will wear down too quickly (and the steerer will be tight); too loose and ...well...

harringtonp

Magic, appreciate the help, learning quite a bit here :-)

A search on the site came up with 2 matches

http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/products-search.php?d=30.5&D=41.8&bt=width&type=bearings

Cannot see a difference is but I gather either will do.

harringtonp

Bearing arrived yesterday and fit it last night. Had difficulty getting the old one out. Couldn't prise it out from above so ended up tapping (quite a bit) from below with the fear of god of doing some frame damage. Was beginning was wonder was it glued in.

Attached photo shows recommended bolt tensions, gives a range of 4.9-6.9Nm for the 4 bolts but doesn't say how much for what.

Presume cap bolt and handlebar pinch bolts are the lower end of this range and the stem bolt the upper ? Or is it likely it doesn't matter once they all fit within it ?

DirkVoodoo

I think F just means that the bearing has a flange.

Either that or it's to do with the seals.

As for the torque settings...Eh, I don't think it's anything other than providing a minimum and maximum safety range. It can't be below it and it can't be above it. Below and it might not provide enough compression, above and you might damage the steerer.

Generally you will have the top cap so it's finger tight, if not using a torque wrench. You're just pre-loading the bearings, they still need to be able to turn freely.

As for the stem, that will be given on the stem itself. You'll probably shear the bolts before damaging the steerer.

DirkVoodoo

Don't fret too much about it, I've never seen a sticker like that on a steerer.

Reading it again you may be right, one is for stem and one is for compression plug. I'd go with what's printed on the stem.