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Newbie questions and advice

  • 10-08-2015 7:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I'm new here, so apologies in advance for asking questions that no doubt have been asked before (I went through 6 pages in the forum, but didn't see any newbie stuff, so hopefully it's been a while since you had to be patient for a newbie!).

    Long story short, I'd like to get into cycling, primarily to loose a few pounds. I'd consider using a bike for commuting some days, but it depends on how long it would take. I live about 15 miles from work, mostly country roads, a few small-ish hills, but relatively flat. I'd say that I'd use it for weekend spins for fitness more than for the daily commute.

    Dilemma: what bike should I go for?

    I've been on the Halfords website (I know, I know, there are probably WAY better places to buy a bike, but I went on there simply because they seem to have a huge range, and I was hoping that would give me a starting point in my search).

    I want something that is light and easy to ride, primarily. I can't see myself getting into any competitions, so speed is not the main thing, although if I get the bug, you never know....

    So it comes down to whether I need a road bike or a hybrid. I doubt I'd be going off-road, it'll be mostly tarmac I'll be on. I like the idea of disc brakes instead of the traditional callipers, for better stopping in the odd wet day we get in Ireland. From a newbie perspective, some of the hybrids "look" very like the road bikes, with the most obvious difference being the handle bars.

    So, which handle bars are better? Does terrain dictate the answer to this (I'm thinking maybe the shape you have to get into with road bike handle bars would be better for going uphill???).

    How many gears is the right amount?

    What kind of weight is considered light enough to make the bike easy to ride? The ones I've been looking at range from about 10 to 12kg.

    I have way more questions, but that's probably enough to get the ball rolling.

    My budget is around 600-700 max, I'd say.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-substance-2015/

    or similar.....
    cyclocross style bikes with slicks are fast, comfortable and very very durable.
    this ones steel so a tad heavier than say aluminium...but also very comfy road buzz wise...
    halfords sell at least 3 different cyclocross bikes... the cheaper ones arent great but the boardman team one is decent

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/verenti-model-year-2014-bikes-first-look.html/2#j8MhSpmo2K3dXYRJ.97

    thats it in the flesh- tasty enough for €600


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-substance-2015/

    or similar.....
    cyclocross style bikes with slicks are fast, comfortable and very very durable.
    this ones steel so a tad heavier than say aluminium...but also very comfy road buzz wise...
    halfords sell at least 3 different cyclocross bikes... the cheaper ones arent great but the boardman team one is decent

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/verenti-model-year-2014-bikes-first-look.html/2#j8MhSpmo2K3dXYRJ.97

    thats it in the flesh- tasty enough for €600


    Thanks for that. I hadn't even heard of Cyclocross until I read your post.

    Having read a bit more about that type of bike online, I think it is the style that would suit me best. I like the idea that if I wanted to I could keep up with a road bike, and that it has dropped bars for comfort, and that it has disc brakes for control.

    I'd be buying one on the "bike to work" scheme, so the online shop probably wouldn't be suitable. The only cyclocross bikes available on the scheme in Galway start at about €700, up to what I'd officially term as "mad money".

    There's a Giant Revolt 3 for about €850, or a Kona Rove AL for about €700. The next ones up start at about a grand.

    Any thoughts on the Giant and/or Kona????


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    id take the kona

    seems like good value
    Kona frames are well made and stand the test of time
    their cyclocross bikes ( jake the snake) are hugely popular for a good reason.

    personally- i dont like the Giant but im sure its a good bike.
    geometry looks almost too comfortable!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭Fian


    Road bars are the obvious visible difference, these put you in a more streamlined position for less air resistance, more relevant on the flat and descents then when climbing. Galway is pretty flat and windy so road bars would be valuable, especially when cycling west.

    The more significant difference (though less visibly obvious) between road and hybrid are in the wheels and gearing. Road bikes generally have "higher" gears to help you travel faster and higher tyre pressure for a faster (though bumpier) ride.

    I have never heard anyone saying that they wished they bought a hybrid rather than a road bike, have heard the opposite often.

    Consider a second hand bike as an alternative to cycle to work scheme.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    Fian wrote: »
    Road bars are the obvious visible difference, these put you in a more streamlined position for less air resistance, more relevant on the flat and descents then when climbing. Galway is pretty flat and windy so road bars would be valuable, especially when cycling west.

    The more significant difference (though less visibly obvious) between road and hybrid are in the wheels and gearing. Road bikes generally have "higher" gears to help you travel faster and higher tyre pressure for a faster (though bumpier) ride.

    I have never heard anyone saying that they wished they bought a hybrid rather than a road bike, have heard the opposite often.

    Consider a second hand bike as an alternative to cycle to work scheme.

    Yes, I already have a hybrid (Giant) and I just find that it's not very comfortable.

    I need something that is not going to sap my motivation, as I need to lose weight! The last thing I need is to buy a bike and then let it get dusty in the shed because it's too hard to ride. (Which is what has happened to the Giant hybrid).

    How do people feel about the secondary brake levers on top of the bars? I kind of think they'd be good to have, but maybe they're not needed? I still like the idea of disc brakes, and getting those on a road bike is just out of my budget. That means that cyclocross is my best bet overall, I think.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001868036329

    bit of value..
    great shop too

    nb- link might not work unless u log inro face book sorry-
    its a saracen disc bike reduced by about €400..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 754 ✭✭✭GeneralC


    Sorry to hijack, but I have a few questions and I didn't want to start a new thread.

    Fellow newbie here. I have a question regarding nutrition and what to bring, if anything, with me on my first 50km.

    Also, what clothing will I need to buy now for the winter?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭HivemindXX


    I wouldn't worry too much about disc brakes. Modern rim brakes work well enough and you'll probably be going slower in the wet because of concerns about sliding anyway. If they push your costs too high just abandon the idea and don't look back. I'm sure 95% of people on road bikes today are still using rim brakes.

    For city commuting I prefer my hybrid. The advantages of a road bike only really show themselves over longer distances (50k+ say). If you find you want to do more and more cycling, do some sportives, join a club, you may regret getting a hybrid. The flip side is that you may find a road bike more difficult to get used to and that might put you off. Make sure you try out both types of bike.

    Make sure you learn how to do basic maintenance to save yourself some money. You shouldn't be paying someone to fix a puncture for you. Youtube is pretty good for learning a lot of that stuff.

    For nutrition there are probably as many answers as their are cyclists and what you want depends a lot on how serious you take it. I can't stand gels but I like jellies like Shot Blox, a packet of Natural Fruit Company Jelly Dinosaurs is a very acceptable substitute. During long cycles I eat one or these every half an hour or so. Unfortunately I like my food to taste nice and most bars follow the principle that you can tell how good it is based on how bad it tastes. I like Mule Bars and Clif Bars. Of course some Fig Rolls in a baggie or a couple of bananas work well too. For a 50k I might bring a packet of jellies and a single bar and that would probably be overkill. Better to bring too much than too little though.

    If you wear cycling shorts then you should consider getting a good pair of winter bib tights (DHB Vaeon Zero are great for example). For your torso you can probably just add layers to suit the conditions. Maybe a skull cap to keep your head warm. You could just buy winter versions of everything you already have, but depending on what your current clothing is like you can probably continue to use some of it all year around. My hands get very cold, so I got winter gloves which didn't do the job so I got heavier ones which were still pretty cold so now I wear something that looks like it was taken from that orange space suit in 2001.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    GeneralC wrote: »
    Sorry to hijack, but I have a few questions and I didn't want to start a new thread.

    Fellow newbie here. I have a question regarding nutrition and what to bring, if anything, with me on my first 50km.

    Also, what clothing will I need to buy now for the winter?
    U won't need much for a 50k spin. I'd bring a spar tube, a mobile phone, a bottle of water, some money and maybe a snack bar ( mars bar, muesli bar or whatever)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for all the replies! And thanks for being patient....I appreciate that no one came on here being condescending or pi**ed off with basic questions.

    I think I've narrowed my search down to 2 choices. The Giant Revolt 3 and the Kona Rove AL. Price-wise, they're about the same (the Giant is about 150 dearer, but the dealer will trade in my old hybrid, which brings the price down to about the same as the Kona).

    One of the things I'd be keeping in mind is that if I was ever to join a club or go out with a few lads, I'd have to be able to keep up (reasonably well, anyway) with the road bikes. One of the phrases used to describe the Kona on Wiggle.com was "urban hybrid". Does that mean it's not suited to comfortable longer road trips? Or is it just a phrase? Anyway, if you have a few minutes, could you look at the specs of the 2 bikes and share your thoughts, please?

    Giant Revolt 3:website

    Kona Rove AL: website

    The Rove looks more off-road orientated, with space for bigger tyres (although it seems to come delivered with the same tyres as the Giant). As I'm leaning more towards road stuff, does this mean the bike is less suited for the road?

    In terms of gears, drive, brakes, etc., how do the bikes compare?

    Are they so similar that it makes no difference, or does one stand out as definitely being better than the other?

    Thanks in advance.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭triggermortis



    In terms of gears, drive, brakes, etc., how do the bikes compare?

    Are they so similar that it makes no difference, or does one stand out as definitely being better than the other?

    Thanks in advance.

    The biggest difference I can see is that the Kona has eyelets on the frame which means you fit proper mudguards and a rack - helpful for commuting especially in the winter. The gears are the same on both bikes and there really isn't much in the difference. If I was choosing between those two, I'd go with the Kona


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    The biggest difference I can see is that the Kona has eyelets on the frame which means you fit proper mudguards and a rack - helpful for commuting especially in the winter. The gears are the same on both bikes and there really isn't much in the difference. If I was choosing between those two, I'd go with the Kona

    Thanks.

    Another difference I spotted (which isn't clear in the photos) is that the Giant has a set of brake levers on top of the handle bars. Is that a big deal??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    Update: another bike has entered the mix, for about the same price.

    It's a Cannondale CAADX Sora Disc

    Here is a link to it: http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/road/cyclocross/caadx/caadx-sora-disc

    What's the scoop on Cannondale, and this model in particular?

    Out of the 2 bikes I mentioned earlier, the Kona seems to be slightly on top, but not by much. Does the Cannondale change the game?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭HivemindXX


    Another difference I spotted (which isn't clear in the photos) is that the Giant has a set of brake levers on top of the handle bars. Is that a big deal??

    Those things are generally called brake level extensions or something similar. Basically they allow you to brake while on "the tops" (ie: you are holding the bars on the flat near the stem). This can be useful (maybe especially in heavy traffic) but it might encourage you to spend more time then you should up there when on "the hoods" (ie: with your hands around the levers proper) is a better riding position. I guess the main drawback of not having them is that if you end up using the tops all the time (which you shouldn't) then you will have to change hand position before you brake which might make the difference between braking soon enough and too late. The main advantage of having them is that you can spend all your time on the tops even though you shouldn't really.

    Here's a web page with more detail than you probably want on drop bar hand positions:-
    http://lovelybike.blogspot.ie/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    Update: another bike has entered the mix, for about the same price.

    It's a Cannondale CAADX Sora Disc

    Here is a link to it: http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/road/cyclocross/caadx/caadx-sora-disc

    What's the scoop on Cannondale, and this model in particular?

    Out of the 2 bikes I mentioned earlier, the Kona seems to be slightly on top, but not by much. Does the Cannondale change the game?

    Fairly major game changer
    I have that bike all be it heavily modified from the original spec but that is the beauty of that frameset-
    It is so good you can upgrade it and its only gona get better
    Cannondale are masters of aluminium - the frame is a beaut to ride
    I'd highly recommend it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,196 ✭✭✭PaulieC


    The Kona is €699 & the Cannondale is €1145, quite a difference.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    PaulieC wrote: »
    The Kona is €699 & the Cannondale is €1145, quite a difference.

    The Cannondale is on offer at 995, and a trade in of my old bike brings it down to about 800, so only 100 more than the Kona. Bike to work scheme makes it even more viable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    The Cannondale is on offer at 995, and a trade in of my old bike brings it down to about 800, so only 100 more than the Kona. Bike to work scheme makes it even more viable.

    excellent value..
    thats a good setup for the money.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    Decision has been made, and I've ordered a bike.

    Drum roll please........






    I went for the Cannondale CAADX Sora Disc.

    Seems like it is more bike for buck than the other 2. Essentially a €1150 bike for €800.

    Should have it in a week or so, when the bike to work voucher comes thru.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 712 ✭✭✭onthefringe


    Decision has been made, and I've ordered a bike.

    Drum roll please........






    I went for the Cannondale CAADX Sora Disc.

    Seems like it is more bike for buck than the other 2. Essentially a €1150 bike for €800.

    Should have it in a week or so, when the bike to work voucher comes thru.

    god choice
    although the kona is also a peach the geometry is lovely on the cannondale
    if your gona ride mostly roads get yourself a set of 25mm slicks
    the knobbly tyres will slow you on the road surface

    also
    that frame/groupo combination comes with an english thread Bottom bracket which is better than the higher end bike that comes with BB30!

    I swapped out the calipers for TRP spyres and the groupo for campagnolo stuff which i prefer but as is off the shop floor its perfect for day to day riding
    the sora shifters in particular are very smooth.

    enjoy !


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    I went for the Cannondale CAADX Sora Disc.
    If you do want to, the cross levers are not expensive and are easy enough to retro-fit.
    if your gona ride mostly roads get yourself a set of 25mm slicks
    the knobbly tyres will slow you on the road surface
    I'd say stay on 35mm slicks for road use. Makes for a lovely comfy ride and no real slow down. I ride Vittoria Voyager Hyper 35mm tyres and they're brill.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    If you do want to, the cross levers are not expensive and are easy enough to retro-fit.

    I'd say stay on 35mm slicks for road use. Makes for a lovely comfy ride and no real slow down. I ride Vittoria Voyager Hyper 35mm tyres and they're brill.

    The tyres it comes with aren't what I'd call particularly knobbly. They've got small knobbly bits towards the outside, but down the centre they're pretty slick. They have a very shallow thread.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭waynegalway


    Update: Just got the BTW voucher and I'll be picking up the CAADX this evening!

    Can't wait to get going on it. I have a 10km route planned, couple of fairly low grade hills each way, but mostly flat. Reckon that's a good starting distance for a novice? I'm planning on doing it this evening.


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