Short cage/ road clutch mechs

25sean

Anyone know if there is such a thing ??

would like to run a single chainring on a cross bike and be 100% the chain won't come off.. Narrow wide on the front etc...

MTB cages are a little long.. Shimano shifters so would have to be compatible...

Any thoughts?

Thanks

SRAM have just released a 1x system for road /cyclocross.
http://road.cc/content/news/152599-first-ride-sram-1x-road

Looks interesting.

Lumen

This?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-zee-m640-shadow-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod82431

Shadow+ means switchable clutch. Designed for DH, dunno whether it works with road shifters.

Other options:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/s?q=shadow%2b

Guess it comes down to the pull ratio.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Shimano-Zee-Rear-Mech-tested-2013.html

"Yes - as said above all Shimano 10sp cassettes road or MTB (and Sram for that matter) are the same spacing. As an extra bit of info - 10sp Shimano road shifters have a different pull ratio so would not work with a 10sp Shimano rear MTB mech and same goes for Shimano 10sp MTB shifters won't work with Shimano 10sp road mechs. Shame really as all the 9sp stuff used to be interchangeable between road and MTB."

TooObvious

Why not just get a chain catcher? You could easily mount it on the bottom bracket to take the place of the front derailleur...

25sean

I saw the shadow stuff aright and was wondering would it work with a 42 on the front..

Regards compatibility, might and might not work, that said , I have a Dawes galaxy with Stis and a deore rear mech which work fine...

Could get a chain catcher but the narrow wide should take care of it , I actually have one on the CX bike and have had no trouble but it came of the other day when I was bunny hopping a curb.. Embarrassing and sore.....

I see srams too, but it would mean a full new groupset...

I think I might try a zee , and if it doesn't work I'll put it on the xc bike....

Thanks for debate!!!

Alek

with Stis and a deore rear mech which work fine...

Is it a pre-10 speed Deore? If so, they are fine.

I'm currently preparing a 36T single front setup with a DIY chain catcher, will try it in Ratfarnham Standard short Sora mech for the rear though, possibly with a shortened chain to keep it under tension.

trinewbie

Shimano Mechs have two spring positions -

You can get away with running a single narrow-wide chainring without a chain catcher on the front if you use a standard short cage mech (non clucthed) set to the higher tension setting, ...absoluteblack do a nice cx specific chainring , good article here:

http://crossjunkie.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/absoluteblack-single-ring-set-up.html

You can also run a 9 speed MTB rear mech to achieve the same result afaik.

25sean

It is a 9 speed come to think of it..

So all shimano mechs have 2 spring positions... Seems like a bit of a job, but I'll definitely try that and make sure the chain length is right.. How far is too far for your mech to stretch do you think? Always wary when I'm in my big ring on the cassette...

Alek

higher tension setting

Wouldn't turning the B screw fully in do the same?

JBokeh

Alek wrote: »

Wouldn't turning the B screw fully in do the same?

These put a fairly big pressure on the chain, it is actually a big resistance to move the mech by hand to take off a wheel, which is why you can disengage the clutch. On a 1x setup you generally run a pretty wide cassette at the back, so it isn't as easy to wind in the B screw to get a nice feel as you're trying to get the jockey wheel to clear the largest sprocket

I've had the chain pop of a narrow wide chainring because i've not engaged the clutch mech.

If you're feeling a bit blue peter have a look at the kona Steve Peat used race down hill on, He has a really old version of it, which is the blue thing hanging off the rear dropout. It is basically a strong spring pulling back on the cage, it does the exact job of a clutch, but it isn't as pretty, however it is as cool as they come and probably a good conversation piece.



They're a bullet brothers tensioner, doubt they're made anymore but ebay tends to get them from time to time. I've a big idea in my head to build up a 90's style bike with what would have been the best of gear back in the day, and one of them is on my list

Alek

These put a fairly big pressure on the chain, it is actually a big resistance to move the mech by hand to take off a wheel,

You mean the shadow+ clutches?

On a 1x setup you generally run a pretty wide cassette at the back, so it isn't as easy to wind in the B screw to get a nice feel as you're trying to get the jockey wheel to clear the largest sprocket

I am running 12-27. In CX walking your bike up the hill is ok, you know

Will try it later on today, but I don't expect it to offer much more tension in reality. Maybe in combination with the spring mod, or maybe even with drilling an extra hole for that spring... Sora mechs are super cheap to replace, just in case

JBokeh

Alek wrote: »

You mean the shadow+ clutches?



I am running 12-27. In CX walking your bike up the hill is ok, you know

Will try it later on today, but I don't expect it to offer much more tension in reality. Maybe in combination with the spring mod, or maybe even with drilling an extra hole for that spring... Sora mechs are super cheap to replace, just in case

I'm not too clued in on CX bikes, but I thought they ran a double somewhere between a road and mountain one, and something along the lines os an 11 - 25, so I presumed if you went for a single ring you'd be running a 11 - 36 MTB cassette, and not worrying about the cadence as much. I also forgot about the hike-a-bike aspect of CX too

Alek

I had 50/34 +12-27 last year and used the big ring maybe twice in the whole season. 34 on the front was good enough even for the super fast start in Grangecastle (40kmh+) and you see speeds greater than that very rarely in B races. This year it is going to be 36 solo on the front, 12-27 back - no need for greater range for me. When 36/27 is not enough, you are running up that hill already anyway! ;-)

Mr. Grieves

25sean wrote: »

Could get a chain catcher but the narrow wide should take care of it , I actually have one on the CX bike and have had no trouble but it came of the other day when I was bunny hopping a curb.. Embarrassing and sore.....

Do you reckon narrow-wide and keeping the chain as short as possible won't cut it racing with a regular derailleur? I've used a normal single ring for the past couple of seasons and only dropped the chain in a crash, but I left the front derailleur on as a sort of chain catcher. I want to try a narrow-wide this year.

Regarding ratios discussed above, CX racing doesn't require a big range and not having to deal with front changes, chain suck etc is advantageous. 11-28 with a 39 on front has always been ok for me. I'll probably get a 38 narrow-wide (it has to be even number of teeth so debating 38 or 40)