Brake pads question?

Maidhci

I need to replace brake pads on Ultegra 6700 system. CRC have the following compatible pads but the price differential is quite substantial:

Shimano Dura Ace Brake pads 7900.............................€7.49 / pair

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-dura-ace-brake-pads-7900/rp-prod38999

Shimano Dura Ace-Ultegra-105 (R55C+1) pads...............€14.49 / pair

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-dura-ace-ultegra-105-r55c-1-brake-pads/rp-prod130687

The following feature applies to (R55C+1)...... "Brake pads made from SOFT TENDRE soft compound which reduces rim wear." - is it this feature that accounts for the price differential? Any recommendations or suggestions welcome - thanks.

G1032

Just buy these!! Definite improvement in stopping power for me in wet weather when compared to the Shimano Dura Ace Brake pads 7900 you linked to

Swissstop Flash Pro Green

Agent Smyth

+1 on the Swissstop, Much better braking then Shimano pads and I was told kinder on your rims.

Maidhci

G1032 wrote: »

Just buy these!! Definite improvement in stopping power for me in wet weather when compared to the Shimano Dura Ace Brake pads 7900 you linked to

Swissstop Flash Pro Green

Thanks for response G1032 - is it just a question of slipping these into the existing shoes, once I remove the existing pads OR will the brake calipers need adjustment etc., if there is a difference in the thickness of the pads?

G1032

Maidhci wrote: »

Thanks for response G1032 - is it just a question of slipping these into the existing shoes, once I remove the existing pads OR will the brake calipers need adjustment etc., if there is a difference in the thickness of the pads?

Pretty much just a case of slipping into the existing shoe. Calipers may have to be loosened a tad depending on how worn previous brake pads were but it's dead easy set the brakes up. If you're unsure just check out youtube

Maidhci

G1032 wrote: »

Pretty much just a case of slipping into the existing shoe. Calipers may have to be loosened a tad depending on how worn previous brake pads were but it's dead easy set the brakes up. If you're unsure just check out youtube

Thanks for that info. - much appreciated.

iwillhtfu

The 7900 pads are grand. The Swiss are better but at 3 times the price they aren't that much better. I have both sets btw.

Leroy42

iwillhtfu wrote: »

The 7900 pads are grand. The Swiss are better but at 3 times the price they aren't that much better. I have both sets btw.

I was just about to ask the question. Apart from the initial 'clearing the water' period when braking in the wet, I have found the DA brakes to be more than enough.

I have never used any other type though so can't compare but I would struggle to think that other break pads are that much better.

Maybe racing, particularly crits etc it would make a difference I suppose

Cee-Jay-Cee

I replaced my 6800 pads with Clarkes troops-compound pads and found a quite noticeable improvement in initial bite and overall braking ability. The Clarkes pads are as cheap as 7900/6800 pads.

benneca1

Swisstop are the job if price is an issue buy them from the german site 4thebike.de cheap out use mailbox.de to cut postage cost and you have em at a great price.

As for when it matters ~ any sportive when it rains IMO

Cee-Jay-Cee

benneca1 wrote: »

Swisstop are the job if price is an issue buy them from the german site 4thebike.de cheap out use mailbox.de to cut postage cost and you have em at a great price.

As for when it matters ~ any sportive when it rains IMO

I keep meaning to sign up to them, how much is total postage when you use mailboxde?

Statler

As said above Swisstop are the mutt's nuts but I've been using these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ashima-3-function-brake-pad-inserts/ for the last few years on my winter bike and swear by them. Good stopping power in wet weather and they seem to be fairly hard wearing.

mossym

another vote for the swisstop, have used the shimano pads but switched over to the swisstop on both tri bike and road bike and very impressed

benneca1

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I keep meaning to sign up to them, how much is total postage when you use mailboxde?

Works out about 9 euro 3 to deliver in Germany 2 something handling by mailbox de and about 2 to post by Czech post which is cheapest . Otherwise you have to add 18 which is shipping price to IE. Funny thing is tho its only a tenner to Spain and got stuff sent directly when going on holidays dunno how post charges can vary so much

68 lost souls

benneca1 wrote: »

Works out about 9 euro 3 to deliver in Germany 2 something handling by mailbox de and about 2 to post by Czech post which is cheapest . Otherwise you have to add 18 which is shipping price to IE. Funny thing is tho its only a tenner to Spain and got stuff sent directly when going on holidays dunno how post charges can vary so much

So SwimCycleRun is still cheaper and next day shipping and supporting local company. I'd go there thank you.

Buchaill_Mor

Or maybe .......

http://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=2&c=52&p=283&tb=001&m=1&

Have been recommended here before.

benneca1

68 lost souls wrote: »

So SwimCycleRun is still cheaper and next day shipping and supporting local company. I'd go there thank you.

Yep youre right cheaper hate that someone should develop an app to search all online shops 😀

68 lost souls

Somewhat related, do these look like they need replacing?

koutoubia

^^^^
Is there not a wear line/indicator on them?

68 lost souls

Im assuming those vertical gaps are the wear indicators. In which case not sure how far down they should go? It looks like there could be plenty of life if that is the case however I dug a few bits of aluminum out of them that were embedded and there seems to be a few gauges out of them in the center that you can see here.

koutoubia

usually a wear indicator on the top. Never saw a big groove like that before!

68 lost souls

On one of the pads it looks as if it was missing the rim on a few mm towards the top or something as there is a step in the pad, thats the one you can see on top

iwillhtfu

They look to be well worn imo.

New pads aren't particularly expensive. I'd swap them for peace of mind.

There is usually a wear indicator on the side but given the slots are nearly worn away you may well have gone passed this point and worn it off.

68 lost souls

iwillhtfu wrote: »

They look to be well worn imo.

New pads aren't particularly expensive. I'd swap them for peace of mind.

There is usually a wear indicator on the side but given the slots are nearly worn away you may well have gone passed this point and worn it off.

Thanks, I must take a note of the wear indicators when I replace them.

Up until very recently I have been getting the shop to do my maintenance, taking advantage of a deal I got when I purchased which included free servicing for 2 years. Either its time for N+1 or I have to start learning this stuff myself.

68 lost souls

Posted this in another theead but better suited here. I got the Swiss stop and having spent an hour tonight trying To fit the front I give up.

The pads don't fit in the shoes, I can get them in some of the way but then no matter how hard I try i can't get the new pads to go all the way in. Any one have this experience before?

The old pads need almost now pressure to slide in and out but the new ones go partly in then get jammed.

mossym

not being smart, but you are putting the right side in? they are orientated...

ted1

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I replaced my 6800 pads with Clarkes troops-compound pads and found a quite noticeable improvement in initial bite and overall braking ability. The Clarkes pads are as cheap as 7900/6800 pads.

Replacing pads will always give better performance. The question is, was the improvement on when the old pads were new?

68 lost souls

mossym wrote: »

not being smart, but you are putting the right side in? they are orientated...

Yep checked tha and double checked it. Since I got all four I also tried both lefts and both rights.

slideshow bob

68 lost souls wrote: »

The pads don't fit in the shoes, I can get them in some of the way but then no matter how hard I try i can't get the new pads to go all the way in. Any one have this experience before?

Same problem for me. Cleaning shoes scrupulously gave just enough room to squeeze pads in. Could try liquid soap if still bit tight after that?

68 lost souls

slideshow bob wrote: »

Same problem for me. Cleaning shoes scrupulously gave just enough room to squeeze pads in. Could try liquid soap if still bit tight after that?

Tried that here's where I am with the front

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yna2acigpfqxpm2/2015-09-08%2022.40.09.jpg?dl=0[\url]

mossym

68 lost souls wrote: »

Tried that here's where I am with the front

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yna2acigpfqxpm2/2015-09-08%2022.40.09.jpg?dl=0[\url]

what i did:

got it about as far as you did. put the brake upright, with the end of the brake pad thats sticking out on the edge of the bench, and tap the pad holder down easily with a rubber mallet/hammer with cloth in between. slid right in no isses.

68 lost souls

mossym wrote: »

what i did:

got it about as far as you did. put the brake upright, with the end of the brake pad thats sticking out on the edge of the bench, and tap the pad holder down easily with a rubber mallet/hammer with cloth in between. slid right in no isses.

Will try this in the workshop tomorrow and see how it goes otherwise I was thinking about sanding a little off the back and the groove?

ted1

68 lost souls wrote: »

Will try this in the workshop tomorrow and see how it goes otherwise I was thinking about sanding a little off the back and the groove?

Either put a bit off grease on the back or just put them in a clamp and tap them In with a mallet or stand them up and lean in them using your weight to push them in

68 lost souls

A bit of gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet in the soft clamp vice and some guidance of the flashing with a probe got them in. A lot tougher than it was supposed to be though, I'm sure there was some excess flashing or something.

Part of the design flaw is around the indent for the grub screw , if you see the shimano ones there is a gap in groove here so it wont get in the way



The Swissstop ones continune on and at the thinnest point it gets bunched and doesnt want to follow the track.

Maidhci

68 lost souls wrote: »

A bit of gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet in the soft clamp vice and some guidance of the flashing with a probe got them in. A lot tougher than it was supposed to be though, I'm sure there was some excess flashing or something.

Part of the design flaw is around the indent for the grub screw , if you see the shimano ones there is a gap in groove here so it wont get in the way



The Swissstop ones continune on and at the thinnest point it gets bunched and doesnt want to follow the track.

I was about to order the Swissstop Flash Pro as well (see Post 1) but will hold off for the moment based on your experience - I had assumed that the Swissstop would simply slide into the existing shoes.

What brake shoes are you experiencing the difficulty with??

Thanks.

68 lost souls

Maidhci wrote: »

I was about to order the Swissstop Flash Pro as well (see Post 1) but will hold off for the moment based on your experience - I had assumed that the Swissstop would simply slide into the existing shoes.

What brake shoes are you experiencing the difficulty with??

Thanks.

I had heard nothing but good things about them until now. Part of me wonders if its a bad batch or if its something to do with my shoes. They are the stock shoes on a trek 2.1 which are not branded but assume they are some type of shimano as everything else is/was 105, tiagra or rs565 on the bike.

Got incredibly frustrated watching videos on youtube of how easy it is to swap them in/out and me struggling so much.