Log effect sheeting

leica

anyone know where I can buy log effect sheeting , it's for interior use , so white or red deal would suit , preferably red deal , or anyone know of anyone who would run this out for me on a spindle or four cutter out of 4x1 1/2 or 5x1 1/2

kadman

Depending on the amount you need, its going to be expensive getting it specially moulded.

Its basically a non runner on a spindle , apart from the fact that it will need a few runs, its not do able safely,
unless you have some very special cutters to hand.

And if the prospective joinery has to order a special set to match what you have, then thats probably
250 euros on to your bill, for the cutters, which the guy will keep after.

Four cutter is definitely the best choice here, but still there is the question of specialist cutters. You could get
a full cutter profile to do the mould on the flat, but yu run the risk of losing the last 100mm on each length
running up into the last head......

Its not going to be cheap unfortunately, unless the machinst has a bit of savvy, then he could possibly do lots on a thicknesser, and leave you to sand for finish.

Double Barrel

http://mccallstimberandbuildingsupplies.com/T-and-G-Loglap-To-Order

http://www.goodwins.ie/p-28043-barrel-board-loglap-treated-144x30mm-x-48mtr.aspx

kadman

Not suitable for interior use, if its tanalised.

Double Barrel

Understood.

McCall's have their own in-house treatment facility, so it should be available untreated.

recipio

The Yanks like to use 'moulder head' machines, a bit like a thicknesser at DIY level. Woodmaster and Williams and Hussy are the two big makers. They can be factory fitted with 220 volt motors. They seem to be a great idea but getting one over here adds about 400e to the bill. Logosol, being a Swedish company also make great machinery for handling logs but are very pricey.

kadman

If you wanted to buy a moulder, then you would not need to go to the US for 1, as its a buyers market here at the moment.
Overhead moulders are great machines, and so are 4 , 5, and 6 cutter moulders. And considering they were 40-50k new, they can now be bought for 3-5k, if you know where to look, but would need 3 phase power.

But thats a whole thread ;-)

One shot on kill

How much of it do you need.

leica

Thanks for all the advice lads , I need about 50 square meters, was thinking about buying 4x1 1/2 and getting it machined ,I have a three phase genny at the back of the workshop , I wouldn't need a tongue and groove on it either , it's going to be fixed to a wall

kadman

The rebate on the boards, both hides the joint in the case of some shrinkage between the boards,
and allows for secret fixing of each individual board, of course if they are wide enough to allow that.

Keep the lap rebates, you will regret it if you dont if the log effect has some aesthetic value. Its easily done in
many ways.

One shot on kill

The only thing about buying untreated stuff from a timber yard the chances of it been dryed are slim.
I'd bring dryed timber to them and get them to stick it trough the machine.

kadman

One shot on kill wrote: »

The only thing about buying untreated stuff from a timber yard the chances of it been dryed are slim.
I'd bring dryed timber to them and get them to stick it trough the machine.

Good point. But you wont get good machining results from a bog standard timber yard.

Timber yards are only interested in converting log to logsawn timber planks
in the main. Finish machining is not what they offer in my experience. Some do have five cutters, but tend to use these as four sided planers, and normally dont have or need high volume extraction set ups to take away the chips created in the machining process. And if these are not removed, the pressure feed systems on moulders will push these down onto the machined facings, creating indents and depressions.

Joinery would be a better option, but a timberyard would probably be cheaper depending on what quality they could offer you of course.

One shot on kill

Well if you buy it tanalyized there doesn't be anything wrong with it to be fair.
Just the grade of timber wouldn't be the best for interior work

I suppose another question is is it gonna be painted or left natural with some sort of stain or laquer on it.

If it were me doing it anything for inside would be sanded anyway.

kadman

You could well be right, but there is differing of opinion on that at the moment.
As there is in all things:)
Seems to need a lot of care and attention when using it??

http://www.level.org.nz/health-and-safety/materials-handling/working-with-treated-timber/

http://wespine.com.au/downloads/general/guidelines-handling-tanalised-losp-treated-timber.pdf

http://resources.pihomebuild.com/sites/726/docs/use_class_summary.pdf

http://flanagantimber.com/3-Con_Info_Tan_E.pdf

One shot on kill

Ah only until it drys out after its treatment.

I don't see why it can't be used indoors myself been honest. Especially in a bathroom or that. But haven said that I wouldn't be using it unless it was been painted.

But if it isn't at the right moisture content in the first place the timber will more than Likley move.

Apart from the normal winter to summer movement you'd expect in doors and that I'd expect a littl more from that if the mc isn't correct starting out.

Having said all that all this under floor heating been used now is very hard on timber work and furniture as its being most stuff down to 7-8 % to fast.

But anyway that's for another day.

kadman

Agreed, its a personal thing whether to use it indoors or not, and whether to paint , stain, oil or whatever.

But one thing is for sure, if you use the tanalised log sections, you will probably be using material that
has been stored outside. And whether or not is has been kiln dried before machining down to 10-12 % MC
as would be the norm for standard construction sections, which is what this is . It will definitely reach
an equilibrium MC to match its storage environment.

If its outside, then it will now probably be in the region of air dried timber which is any where from 12%-20 % mc.
At this mc, nothing is surer than that it will shrink in width in a centrally heated building, whether its painted or not
prior to fitting.

Unless of course you are using kiln dried material at the outset.........then all of the above does not apply:)

Probably all for another day all right:P

One shot on kill

Ha ha ha

Your dead right infairness you'd be doing well to get tanalyized timber stored in doors.

I'd still stick with bringing them stuff to just run.

And if I'm been completely honest. For indoors id run it in a MR HDF and paint it but that just because painted is what I like.

Best of luck to the ope and which ever route he chooses to go down.

kadman

Excellent suggestion for the painted HDF, it definitely fis the blll, if the op is looking for a painted finish.

And if it was a bathroom thats getting done, then I too would opt for paint above varnish, laquer ect

kadman

leica

Excuse my ignorance but what is MR. HDF ?

Alun

leica wrote: »

Excuse my ignorance but what is MR. HDF ?

Moisture Resistant High Density Fibreboard.

leica

Does that come in sheets like mdf ? Thanks for reply

Alun

leica wrote: »

Does that come in sheets like mdf ? Thanks for reply

Yes, it does.