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How do these fixings work

  • 27-07-2015 10:54pm
    #1
    imahappier
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 ✭


    I've got a bag full of these fixings (and some insulation boards!)
    topline.ie/images/productimages/5391512821975.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1

    These fixings look like they need something tapped in to expand them.
    Do they?

    Just can't find the right how-to on the web.

    Thanks!


Comments

  • #2
    pablo128
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    imahappier wrote: »
    I've got a bag full of these fixings (and some insulation boards!)
    topline.ie/images/productimages/5391512821975.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1

    These fixings look like they need something tapped in to expand them.
    Do they?

    Just can't find the right how-to on the web.

    Thanks!

    I've seen them used to hang wall presses. You drill a hole smaller in diameter than the fixing and hammer it in. They work quite well.


  • #3
    Happyman42
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    Drill the hole and hammer them in. They work on their own


  • #4
    TopTec
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    They are specifically for insulation boards, come in nylon too. Various lengths depending on thickness of boards and type of wall.

    I think it is an 8mm masonry bit you need, push board onto wall, drill through board and into wall to the required depth, wack fixing through board into wall insuring the cap is flush with the board surface for later skimming.

    Tips. Use an SDS drill, if the first hole doesn't grip try one a few inches away.

    TT


  • #5
    imahappier
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 ✭imahappier


    Thanks folks!
    Surprised to hear that they work on their own.... but I TOTALLY trust you guys :)


  • #6
    Happyman42
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    TopTec wrote: »
    They are specifically for insulation boards, come in nylon too. Various lengths depending on thickness of boards and type of wall.

    I think it is an 8mm masonry bit you need, push board onto wall, drill through board and into wall to the required depth, wack fixing through board into wall insuring the cap is flush with the board surface for later skimming.

    Tips. Use an SDS drill, if the first hole doesn't grip try one a few inches away.

    TT

    Just a point of clarification for myself: I have used these (the nylon version more often) and have ensured that the cap is slightly indented into the suface of the board and not flush.
    Normally I would then fill them flush in prep for skim coat. Is that wrong/unneccessary?


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  • #7
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Happyman42 wrote: »
    Just a point of clarification for myself: I have used these (the nylon version more often) and have ensured that the cap is slightly indented into the suface of the board and not flush.
    Normally I would then fill them flush in prep for skim coat. Is that wrong/unneccessary?
    Yep, countersunk slightly.


  • #8
    650gs
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    Dont use them on a cavity block wall by that I mean 9 inch cavity block the steel will cause cold bridging an you will wind up with spots on the wall where they are


  • #9
    Happyman42
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    650gs wrote: »
    Dont use them on a cavity block wall by that I mean 9 inch cavity block the steel will cause cold bridging an you will wind up with spots on the wall where they are

    I see that all the time actually.


  • #10
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Happyman42 wrote: »
    I see that all the time actually.

    Cold bridging.

    Won't happen with the plastic ones. That's what they're designed to overcome.


  • #11
    cerastes
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    imahappier wrote: »
    I've got a bag full of these fixings (and some insulation boards!)
    topline.ie/images/productimages/5391512821975.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1

    These fixings look like they need something tapped in to expand them.
    Do they?

    Just can't find the right how-to on the web.

    Thanks!

    Can you link that again? Im curious as to what these are? and copying and pasting what you put there doesnt bring anything up.


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  • #12
    dathi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭dathi


    cerastes wrote: »
    Can you link that again? Im curious as to what these are? and copying and pasting what you put there doesnt bring anything up.

    http://topline.ie/images/productimages/5391512821975.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1


  • #13
    Happyman42
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    dodzy wrote: »
    Cold bridging.

    Won't happen with the plastic ones. That's what they're designed to overcome.

    I see these marks (on frosty mornings) on the outside of some houses locally that have been externally insulated Would the wrong fixings have been used there or is that just how it is?


  • #14
    cerastes
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    dathi wrote: »
    http://topline.ie/images/productimages/5391512821975.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1

    thanks,
    I thought they were that type of fixing, but couldnt link to an image.


  • #15
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Happyman42 wrote: »
    I see these marks (on frosty mornings) on the outside of some houses locally that have been externally insulated Would the wrong fixings have been used there or is that just how it is?
    Non-metal fixings should be used, though i'd guess there are cases where this has not happened, and where non-dashed finished are used for the finish, then it would be possible for those 'spots' to be noticeable i'd imagine.


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