New Chainsaw Chain

SCOL

I have a Stihl chainsaw for the last few years it was done plenty of work
but I have noticed I can't get it was sharp as I used to have it. I just use a round file there seem to be meat still left on the teeth. The chain has broken twice in the last 6-8 months.

So I have two options.
1. Get it sharpened by someone who actually know what they are doing.
2. Get a new chain. Do I need to but a Stihl chain or can I buy another good brand.

Melodeon

If you're only using a round file, you're not taking the depth gauges down by the sound of it.
Get someone who knows what they're at to have a look, it's likely salvageable.

Edited to add:
I see it has broken twice!
I'd now say scrap it and get a new one, and get the shop to show you how to properly sharpen it.

How was it repaired when it broke???

SCOL

I went into a Drogheda Hire they are a Sthil dealership and got a new link.

What's the best way to sharpen it ? I have not heard about a depth gauges as I just put it on the vice use a round file 3 twice/3 times on each tooth turn the saw around and do the same on the other side.

$kilkenny

the rakers, are you filling down the rakers?? they are the piece of the tooth that controls the depth the tooth cuts into the stick, too much and it wont cut nothing, no matter how much you sharpen, too little left on it and it takes bigger chunks and isnt great on the saw.

have a look at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTsJe5-ECpg

and go to 4:30, this might be of some help to you.

Melodeon

Yep, what $kilkenny said!

If the depth gauges/rakers aren't filed down to match the freshly filed cutters, the cutters' edges won't be able to reach the wood to cut it.


Also, if the chain has been breaking in work, I'd be checking the bar for damage too.

SCOL

$kilkenny wrote: »

the rakers, are you filling down the rakers?? they are the piece of the tooth that controls the depth the tooth cuts into the stick, too much and it wont cut nothing, no matter how much you sharpen, too little left on it and it takes bigger chunks and isnt great on the saw.

have a look at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTsJe5-ECpg

and go to 4:30, this might be of some help to you.

I looked at the clip, that saw cuts the wood like a hot knife through butter !! I'll go in and ask about a tool for filling down the rakers. The problem I have with these hire shops they will sharpen the saw but they won't show you how to do it !! I know it keep somebody in a job but you need to know how to do it properly yourself.
Youtube is great for reference.

$kilkenny

all you need for rakers is a flat file, thats it, if you dont have 1 use the round file if it will work
Give it 2 or 3 rubs across each of the rakers and give the saw a go in some wood. if its pritty good then leave it alone. if its not so great give it 1 or 2 more per raker.
its an old chain so hell it would be ideal to practice on!

A new chain wouldn't be a bad idea considering it broke twice, go for an Oregon chain, good chains.

Thank you Melodeon, pictures have 1000 words haha. hard to explain without diagrams

SCOL

Do I file the rackers first ? or sharpen it normally and then file the rackers ?

zetecescort

It shouldn't matter which is done first. What matters is there relationship to each other. There are gauges available to check this, the hire place or any chainsaw/lawnmower dealer should have pouches with files and gauges as a set.

St. Leibowitz

Also, how long have you been using the round file for. Files wear out and are a consumable item.

SCOL

There is also meat on the file, but I'll tip into the hire shop and get a new file and talk to them about fileing the rakers.

Melodeon

Really, the best way to learn sharpening is to get a bit of one-to-one hands on instruction with someone knowledgeable who isn't looking to sell you something.
I appreciate that this can be tricky to organise if you don't know someone involved in chainsawing/forestry/tree surgery or the like.

Here's an excellent guide to chain sharpening from Stihl (10MB):
http://www.stihl.com/p/media/download/sharpening_STIHL_saw_chains_0457-181-0121_02.pdf

I'd always set chain tension first, then sharpen the cutters, and do the depth gauges (rakers) last.
Setting the tension first makes the chain much less likely to move around when filing the cutters.
The cutters get lower as they get filed away and as depth gauge height is set in relation to the height of the cutters, there's no point in filing the depth gauges first. All that'll do is ensure that they'll be too high in relation to the cutter.

I've been very fond of the Stihl 2-in-1 file holder EasyFile system for the last few years:

It does the cutter and the depth gauge at the same time, but they're not cheap. Up around the €40 mark or so.

Also very good is the Swedish roller guide:

This is used in 2 stages: with a round file to do the cutters and a flat file for the depth gauges. Husqvarna market these.
These are less costly than the Stihl item, but you need to buy the round and flat files separately.

Both of these gadgets are sized for specific chains and are used with specific file sizes, so make sure to get the correct one for your chain if you go for something like them.

Plenty of people file chains freehand (by eye, with no guides), but really that's the realm of expert users who know and understand what they're doing and what they're aiming to achieve.
It's a great way to get very frustrated and use up chains if you get it wrong

Bullocks

Do you need to change the flat file in the sthil files for different size chains or is it a different file altogether for a new size ?

barryoc1

Anyone got any recommendations on where to buy a new chain online? A good quality chain.

kay 9

Rotatech @ Northern arb supplies. Been using them the past while. 2 for the price of one. Free delivery. They stretch a little more than the oregon or stihl but it's easy get over that.