Getting locked!

cormie

Hey folks,
I'm looking to get a complete lock set up for my bike. I've seen a few videos suggesting a decent u-lock for the back wheel/frame, a cable lock to hook to the U-lock and around the front wheel and then a saddle lock too.

Can anyone recommend some top quality thief deterrent locks that are highly revered? My bike is worth securing so would be willing to spend a decent amount to keep it mine.

I had to cut through a cable lock for a friend recently and used an angle grinder, it broke as soon as the angle grinder made contact, no force was even applied, less than a second. I know an angle grinder will get through pretty much anything, but the bigger the deterrent by way of complete lock set up and good quality locks, the better I guess.

Any amazon links appreciated but if there's any local retailers offering the same for the same price I can check them out too.

iwillhtfu

Strongest I've heard of you can get one with a lanyard also


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Mini-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU

Masala

I purchased this.. Very happy with it. It a Beast of a looking lock. It gives the impression... Don't fffffing mess with me!!!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B008QTKVO2/ref=sr_1_sc_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1437219599&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Pit+bull+lock+bike&condition=new

tomasrojo

I use two locks: Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit and Kryptolok Series 2. Always make sure the frame and rear wheel are locked to something like a Sheffield stand.

I also use a Pitlock security skewer on the front wheel, and waxed-in ball bearings in the hex bolts on the seatpost clamp and in the headset top-cap bolt. Going to replace these bearings with epoxy putty soon. Reasonably secure, as it takes five minutes to scrape out the putty before you can steal the saddle or fork.

Think that's ok. Been working for me for ages on a bike of reasonable value (was €999 when new).

cormie

Thanks for all the suggestions, the fahgettaboudit looks good, but I read from reviews that it's too small to wrap aroun dthe frame, tyre and any regular sign post or street pole?

tomasrojo

You can definitely "Sheldon" your rear wheel to any Sheffield stand. And to some, maybe most poles. I have found some poles that are too wide to accommodate the shackle of the Fahgettaboudit, but 95+% of my parking is at Sheffield stands, which always can accommodate the shackle.

I usually Sheldon the rear wheel (or lock both seat tube and rear wheel) with the Series 2, and lock some part of the frame with the Fahgettaboudit.

tomasrojo

By the way, just in case it's not clear, if you don't use a security skewer, always lock your front wheel, even if just with a Kryptoflex.

RainyDay

Get a Sold Secure lock - it is the standard recognised by the Dublin Cycling Campaign folks

cormie

Thanks again for the replies.

Ok, so maybe to be proper secure, I'll buy 2 D/U locks then?

I have in my amazon basket:

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini Lock:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

and

Kryptonite Kryptoflex 7 ft Cable Lock (10 mm x 213 cm):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE


Now I'm thinking maybe a wider/longer U lock too, maybe this:

Kryptonite New York std NYL lock with FlexFrame bracket (3000):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005YPK9SY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p200_d0_i5?&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=0316EHV7REMK8YTXREJE&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=577048787&pf_rd_i=desktop


I think the 2m cable lock will loop through my seat so will secure that, if the fahgettaboudit can fit in the sheldon position on whatever I'm locking it too, I'll use that, and then use the other U/D lock maybe around the front wheel and frame which may also help stop the bike from moving if somebody knocks into it. If the post is too big for the fahgettaboudit, then I'll use the larger U/D lock for the sheldon and use the fahgettaboudit somewhere else.

The above set up will cost the guts of €165 :eek: is it a bit excessive? I looked up the series 2 and this is only about £20, maybe this will do instead of having 2 kryptonites?

tomasrojo

I use the Series 2 in conjunction with the Fahgettaboudit, and it's a good secondary lock. I know people whose bikes have been stolen when using it as a primary lock, but it's good as a secondary. It also often comes with a Kryptoflex. I think the 4ft one, which I used before I had a security skewer on the front wheel, and it was long enough. Not long enough to secure the saddle as well, but I have alternative arrangements for that, mentioned above. The Kryptoflex was too wide to fit through my saddle rails anyway, even if I had had the 7ft one.

tomasrojo

This shows how you can secure the front wheel even with the shorter Kryptoflex.

I'm not advocating the overall locking strategy in the image, though I think it's pretty good. I must say, I did use to cable lock my saddle every time, but I gave up and secured it with the arrangement I mention upthread, as it was just a pain. I think there's no need to use security skewers AND a Kryptoflex.

Above all, I would be happier with two u-locks. I generally lock Sheldon-style, as in the image, with the Series 2, and lock around the top tube of the bike and Sheffield stand with the Fahgettaboudit. But it depends on how much room there is to lock when there are other bikes already at the stand.

cormie

Is that meant to be the sheldon method? The rear U lock doesn't seem to catch the frame, so if a thief cut through the 2 tyres, they could make off with the frame?

I was thinking something like this:



2 yellow ones being U locks, with the rear one (which is the fahgetabboudit as first choice if fits) will capture the frame in the triangle, the wheel and the cable, then this is secured to immovable object. The front one, being the cheaper (new york or series 2) and longer auxiliary U lock, will possibly wrap around the front tyre, frame and immovable object too. This would be swapped with the fahgetabboudit when the fahgetabboudit can't fit around the immovable onject. The cable then threads from the rear u lock to the front tyre/frame and through the saddle and back down to be caught in the rear u lock again.

tomasrojo

cormie wrote: »

Is that meant to be the sheldon method? The rear U lock doesn't seem to catch the frame, so if a thief cut through the 2 tyres, they could make off with the frame?

In that image in post #11, they could saw through one tyre and wheel, snip the cable and leave with the bike (though they couldn't cycle it or immediately re-sell it). I think it's pretty much unheard of (it's quite awkward to do in practice, and most thieves use bottle jacks, hammers, bolt cutter or levers, not saws), but I like to have the primary lock enclosing the frame and the Sheffield stand for this reason. That means they have to bust the Fahgettaboudit (or saw through the frame, rendering the bike unsellable) and bust the secondary lock (or saw through the tyre and wheel combined).

cormie wrote: »

I was thinking something like this:



2 yellow ones being U locks, with the rear one (which is the fahgetabboudit as first choice if fits) will capture the frame in the triangle, the wheel and the cable, then this is secured to immovable object. The front one, being the cheaper (new york or series 2) and longer auxiliary U lock, will possibly wrap around the front tyre, frame and immovable object too. This would be swapped with the fahgetabboudit when the fahgetabboudit can't fit around the immovable onject. The cable then threads from the rear u lock to the front tyre/frame and through the saddle and back down to be caught in the rear u lock again.

You probably won't get a Fahgettaboudit to secure more than a tyre+wheel or a frame tube to the Sheffield stand. It's just not long enough to enclose seat stays and the Sheffield stand.

If you're locking the front wheel with a u-lock to the frame or the Sheffield stand, then you don't need to use a cable to secure it again.

I think a Kryptoflex probably won't pass through a saddle either. There are smaller cable flexes for this purpose.

Finally(!), in practice it can be tricky locking the front wheel and frame to a Sheffield stand. The heights of the top of the stands are quite variable. There are some very squat ones where it's easy, but most involve lifting the front wheel off the ground and supporting it with your foot while you lock.

cormie

Thanks again for the input

I had a look at my saddle and I think I might be ok to get the kryptoflex weaved through, this is the same model as my saddle:



This video shows the fahgettaboudit u lock in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzMxILTLA9s


There's not much wiggle room alright and yeah, I think as long as I have the frame secured with the fahgettaboudit, it's enough of a deterrent and sure I may as well put the cable through the front wheel , back wheel and saddle too and then use the a 2nd U lock in higher risk situations. There's not going to be many situations where the bike will be left for a whole day or overnight anyway.

tomasrojo

Sounds ok to me.

By the way, if the bike has quick-release wheels, consider replacing the quick-release skewers with hex ones. Cheap and quick to do.
E.g.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/halo-hex-key-skewer-set/rp-prod26621
(Any bike shop should have ones cheaper than those. They're just an example.)

It means that a potential wheel thief at least needs a 5mm Allen key as well as something to snip the Kryptoflex.

Same for the seat post, if that is quick-release.

cormie

Cool, thanks again for the tip Hopefully I won't be posting back here with any sad stories