PV panel self installation help

Hey Yall

Hi, I currently have a PV solar panel about 120x60cm in length and width and I was looking to attach it to the roof. Only thing I want to know is how much of a distance should I leave between the roof and the underside of the panel? I read online that it should be no more than 15 centimetres but I don't know if that is true. Would it be better to attach the panels straight onto the roof without leaving a gap between the panel and the roof where wind can get into and rip the panel off ? All help greatly appreciated.

quentingargan

Normally you use a roof hook which lifts the panel off the roof slates, and the hook should have no contact with the slates. This is to prevent wind buffeting from damaging slates. Waterproofing is achieved with a flashing.

You will see people drilling through slates and mounting panels on raised coachbolts, but I wouldn't recommend that.

The panel must overall not be raised by more than 20cm off the roof for planning exemption to apply

PeteHeat

The reason for leaving a space between the panel and the roof tiles or slates is to allow water and any debris such as moss to run down the roof without causing a blockage behind the panels.

Planning exemption as stated by Quentin is one reason for the height limit off the roof, another is to prevent the panel from being caught by high winds basically making it perform like a kite.

Another reason for staying within the recommendations of the manufacture is to spread the wind load on the panel preventing breakage.
.

Hey Yall

Thanks guys I think that answers everything

Hey Yall

One question actually .. If I attached it to the roof in a way where wind won't be able to get in between the roof and the panel would that be better ? I.e less likely to be ripped off the roof?

They perform better if you ventilate the rear.

freddyuk

A solar panel produces it's own heat when operating and the hotter they get the lower the output thus the gap is essential for effective cooling and higher output. The gap is normally about 3cm. The wind does not normally get under a panel but the low pressure drop above a roof will try to "suck" the panels off thus leaving no gap does not really achieve anything in that regard. A correctly installed panel will not come off unless the roof comes off with it.
It is not difficult to weatherproof a roof fixing on any type of roof and ideally use a roofer for this work. Lead flashing (eyelids) around a roof hook on a slate roof is the best option where the slate is cut to accept the hook. Concrete tiles are taken up and the nib taken off to ensure the roof is watertight when the hook is installed. It's a bit of work but they are there for 30+ years so needs to be done correctly.

I have an aluminium framed module slightly larger than yours HY, I've stood it 50° from the long side proud of the roof in 8m/s wind supported only by the sides and it's been fine.

Bass Cadet

Hey Yall wrote: »

One question actually .. If I attached it to the roof in a way where wind won't be able to get in between the roof and the panel would that be better ? I.e less likely to be ripped off the roof?

Hi...what do you intend to use the PV panel for? What is the Wattage? Is it grid-tied or off grid? Do you have an inverter to change the panel DC power to AC?
Essentially the panel should be attached through the roof material and secured by bolts into the existing rafters. This would mean removing a couple of slates and using flashing for weathering (as previously mentioned) while also using a verified solar wracking system. This type of installation should eliminate any danger of the panel(s) being 'ripped' off the roof. Of course it depends on your roof age and condition and the azimuth (angle towards preferred due south direction) and shade from adjacent buildings, chimney etc

If you're looking to offset your electricity bill and have an average/urban or suburban size house with average electricity usage (like a 2/3 bed terrace house) you would be better spending time and money on actually installing a full panel array of about 1.5kW (1500Watts), whereas a single panel I assume would be 250W. Panels themselves are now quite cheap but still of high quality.

Retrofit solar installations for residential homes are expected to become very popular with the next 12 to 36 months within the Republic as they already are in the North.

There is a white paper from the government due in September which will hopefully have feed-in tariffs for solar PV.
Unless you have experience with roofing, electrical work and/or solar installation I would not recommend installing on your own whatsoever.

rolion

Hello,

I'm trying to DIY install a set of PV panels on my front roof.
Due to house position facing south I will like to build a tracker east-to-west for all panels.
By doing that, I will raise "the gap" from roof to the back of the panel.

Where can I get additional info on the exception re height and/or the distance, as previously posted above with planning permission ?

Thanks

freddyuk

Explain exactly how you plan to do this? How many panels of what size etc. If you are thinking of tracking each panel individually then the gap between them needs to increase and the cost of systems and planning will be unlikely to lead to an economic benefit in my opinion.

rolion

freddyuk wrote: »

Explain exactly how you plan to do this? How many panels of what size etc. If you are thinking of tracking each panel individually then the gap between them needs to increase and the cost of systems and planning will be unlikely to lead to an economic benefit in my opinion.

You are right !Thanks...
By modifying the install and taking in consideration the gap for allowing panels to mive/flap/avoid shadows...I'm losing one panel spacewise per set of 3.
Better skip tracking (was brining 20% extra) and install a 300w panel.

I'm planning to use 300w LGs or Panasonic panels,brought from UK.

Regards

quentingargan

When panels were €6 per watt, it used to be worth spending a lot of money mounting them at optimised angles. Nowadays, with panels at 65c to 75c per watt, it is usually cheaper to just use more panels.

A friend and I are putting together dual-axis ground-mounted trackers for ourselves as a hobby, and when we do, I will probably put up a comparison of the output from the two. The useful bit about trackers is that they provide more steady energy all day long rather than a peak at noon. However apart from having a nice piece of very slow Tai Chi in the garden, I don't think trackers are financailly feasible anymore, except in off-grid sites where a longer steadier supply of power justifies the cost (by not cycling batteries so much).

KISS

quentingargan

quentingargan wrote: »

A friend and I are putting together dual-axis ground-mounted trackers for ourselves as a hobby

Here's an interesting one for you Q. Should you want to borrow some ideas.

rolion

Hi
Trackers on ground are easy to design or build.
I'm looking at one that can work on a roof mounted kit.
Is a one way east to west.
Tks

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

Hello,

I'm trying to DIY install a set of PV panels on my front roof.
Due to house position facing south I will like to build a tracker east-to-west for all panels.
By doing that, I will raise "the gap" from roof to the back of the panel.

Where can I get additional info on the exception re height and/or the distance, as previously posted above with planning permission ?

Thanks

You would have to apply for planning for this. The max height is 20cm from the plane of the roof.

I really don't think this is feasible on a roof because of wind loads, unless it is a very unusual structure. Cheaper by far to get 20% more panels

rolion

Thanks.
Yes I've decided to go with maximum coverage surface vs tracking.

Anyone knows please if the mounting kit / rails are so called universal or are locked to particular model,size,physical parameters.

My plan is to get rails installed on the front roof for 8 panels but buy them in 2-3 batches maybe.
I need to see installs charges as well...

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

Thanks.
Yes I've decided to go with maximum coverage surface vs tracking.

Anyone knows please if the mounting kit / rails are so called universal or are locked to particular model,size,physical parameters.

My plan is to get rails installed on the front roof for 8 panels but buy them in 2-3 batches maybe.
I need to see installs charges as well...

They are generally universal, but you need to ensure that the height of your modules are the same. They can be anything between 30mm and 50mm high and the middle-clamp which holds adjoining frames wouldn't work.

The downside to what you are trying to do is that in a years time, when you want to add more modules, the working votage and current may have changed, so your modules might be mis-matched. Depending on the size of system, you might have two MPPT inputs on your inverter, so one could be reserved for a second string you add later. But I wouldn't do this in dribs and drabs - keep matched panels on each string.

murphaph

With the relatively low cost of the modules relative to the other costs (inverter mainly I suppose) would it not make sense to "fill the roof" with modules while you are at it? We're in Germany and the FIT is pretty poor at slightly less than 1/3 the daytime rate (but at least we have it). We're building new so scaffolding will be up around the house anyway and the installers will have good access to the roof if timed correctly with the roofers.

Was really thinking of just covering the whole roof of app 100m² in panels (simple 45° pitch, single surface, no dormer windows etc) as I am firmly of the opinion that battery tech is coming on in leaps and bounds and the cost will fall (it is falling dramatically here already IMO) enough to justify installing batteries to up the % of self generated power. The batteries can be added a bit later, in the mean time we have at least a bit of a FIT to get something from the excess production on hot summer days (though we plan to run our heat pump in reverse to passively cool the house, so we'll need electricity in summer for that).

Any thoughts?

Bass Cadet

quentingargan wrote: »

When panels were €6 per watt, it used to be worth spending a lot of money mounting them at optimised angles. Nowadays, with panels at 65c to 75c per watt, it is usually cheaper to just use more panels.

A friend and I are putting together dual-axis ground-mounted trackers for ourselves as a hobby, and when we do, I will probably put up a comparison of the output from the two. The useful bit about trackers is that they provide more steady energy all day long rather than a peak at noon. However apart from having a nice piece of very slow Tai Chi in the garden, I don't think trackers are financailly feasible anymore, except in off-grid sites where a longer steadier supply of power justifies the cost (by not cycling batteries so much).

Also maintenance of the tracking mechanism can be expensive if something goes wrong...I've seen panels blown off tracker systems before and demolished in a storm.

Better to go with more panels rather than a mechanised tracker system imo

quentingargan

Bass Cadet wrote: »

Better to go with more panels rather than a mechanised tracker system imo

I agree totally. Just a hobby.

rolion

Hi,

A quick question: I have "inherited" few Smart UPS,3000VA.
Im thinking in using them as part of the PV system but not sure where they fit.
Any idea how can I use them, feeding the mains in the house and connecting the panels/mppt/battery bank to local battery connector instead ?

Thanks.

rolion

quentingargan wrote: »

I agree totally. Just a hobby.

Hi,
How much will it be for the LG PV Panel !?
Thanks.

Bass Cadet

rolion wrote: »

Hi,
How much will it be for the LG PV Panel !?
Thanks.

Any reason you're going with LG? I know of two companies who sell directly to industry. 10 warranty and 25 year production guarantee are standard in the industry.

PM if you'd like details of companies.

You shouldn't be paying more than €160 per panel imo

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

Hi,

A quick question: I have "inherited" few Smart UPS,3000VA.
Im thinking in using them as part of the PV system but not sure where they fit.
Any idea how can I use them, feeding the mains in the house and connecting the panels/mppt/battery bank to local battery connector instead ?

Thanks.

Not sure really when you have grid. It is interesting, because normally when the grid goes off, these come on. You want a situation where you use these to power your house, but when they go off, the grid comes on instead?

Essentially you have a battery inverter that can run a bit less than 3kw of load. You will still need a charge controller to charge the batteries (and I would use an MPPT one as you seem to suggest) but these units will give you grid equivalent.

They may not be very efficient at running low wattage loads. You'd need to check their quiescent power consumption.

rolion

Bass Cadet wrote: »

Any reason you're going with LG? I know of two companies who sell directly to industry. 10 warranty and 25 year production guarantee are standard in the industry.

PM if you'd like details of companies.

You shouldn't be paying more than €160 per panel imo

Thanks.
Can you let me know the names and a contact details please !?

I have to chose between a brand good name such as LG or Panasonic over other brands that I've never heard but I guess are designing and manufacturing even for brand names. I'm not sure those two named brands R & D / manufacture panels or just apply a sticker with their name over an OEM panel...
What do you think ?

rolion

quentingargan wrote: »

Not sure really when you have grid. It is interesting, because normally when the grid goes off, these come on. You want a situation where you use these to power your house, but when they go off, the grid comes on instead?

Essentially you have a battery inverter that can run a bit less than 3kw of load. You will still need a charge controller to charge the batteries (and I would use an MPPT one as you seem to suggest) but these units will give you grid equivalent.

They may not be very efficient at running low wattage loads. You'd need to check their quiescent power consumption.

Thanks.
Yes the main reason will be a offline / online mode for supply energy to house equipment.
If panels strong enough supply directly.
If panels supply fails...it will switch automatically & online from the main supply.

I know that I'll need a "smart" MPPT for batteries and possible an inverter 24v to 240v / 5000w but not sure how to fit in to the big picture yet.

Bass Cadet

rolion wrote: »

Thanks.
Can you let me know the names and a contact details please !?

I have to chose between a brand good name such as LG or Panasonic over other brands that I've never heard but I guess are designing and manufacturing even for brand names. I'm not sure those two named brands R & D / manufacture panels or just apply a sticker with their name over an OEM panel...
What do you think ?

Basically you're paying for the name although in some cases like Sunpower (In California) they can get more production from panels but this should only matter if it's a large installation. Everything comes from India or China with the odd exception in the States where some people will only buy American-made (like Sunpower).

There are other good companies like Vikram and Renesola with the exact same warranties and guarantees. I'll PM you details of companies in Ireland you may be able to pick up overstock for cheaper prices.

rolion

Bass Cadet wrote: »

Basically you're paying for the name although in some cases like Sunpower (In California) they can get more production from panels but this should only matter if it's a large installation. Everything comes from India or China with the odd exception in the States where some people will only buy American-made (like Sunpower).

There are other good companies like Vikram and Renesola with the exact same warranties and guarantees. I'll PM you details of companies in Ireland you may be able to pick up overstock for cheaper prices.

Thanks.

Got in touch with them.
Their price is over at the moment of those supplied by ev-power.

Still shopping around...

Regards

rolion

Hi,

Ordered 2 panels mono 250w each.

Anyone knows where can I buy MC4 connector for them ?

Also...how do i install a PV panel on the roof if no standard mounting kit came with the panel?
Is there a local "metallic works shop" that can build customised frames !?

Thanks

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

Hi,

Ordered 2 panels mono 250w each.

Anyone knows where can I buy MC4 connector for them ?

Also...how do i install a PV panel on the roof if no standard mounting kit came with the panel?
Is there a local "metallic works shop" that can build customised frames !?

Thanks

You are better off going for the proper kit from one of the solar suppliers. We can't put suggestions here - you need to invite PMs. But it wouldnt cost much to get a few proper roof hooks and a length of rail and do this the conventional way. I don't think there are short-cuts that are really effective and don't compromise your roof.

hexosan

Can you mount PV panels on a south facing and a west facing roof or do they have to be on different invertors

rolion

hexosan wrote: »

Can you mount PV panels on a south facing and a west facing roof or do they have to be on different invertors

Well I'm in a similar dilemma.
South face is half taken by solar tubes.Im thinking in installing on the north side of the roof but somehow elevated/raised at an angle.

You will need a dual input inverter so that will manage the difference outputs arrays South and West.
The best device I found is an ABB,from here.
Of course it needs to match your panels output.
I tend to allow 30% more in inverter specification parameters, as I may install more panels later...

http://www.europe-solarstore.com/solar-inverters/abb/abb-pvi-4-2-tl-outd.html

Enjoy it...

Some inverters have two MPPT inputs for this situation.


It's recommended you leave 20% for spiking due to edge of cloud effect.

quentingargan

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Some inverters have two MPPT inputs for this situation.


It's recommended you leave 20% for spiking due to edge of cloud effect.

The other "popular" solution being sold for mixed orientations is micro-inverters. They are being commonly sold by companies with powerful marketing, but most electronic engineers know that putting power electronics into inaccessible roof space is a mistake. The only part of your PV system likely to fail in the 25 year lifetime of the system is the inverter. This may be the result of a simple surge on the grid during lightning. I would far prefer to have a single string inverter hanging on the wall than have to go onto the roof to change a micro-inverter.

You can use optimisers on individual panels (e.g. Tigo) which allow you to put mixed orientations into any inverter you choose. The components in these are not as prone to failure.

You can put panels on a north facing roof, but you will have much lower output. According to the DEAP table from SEAI, 1kw of solar on a south facing roof at 30 degrees pitch will produce 859Kw. The same array north facing would produce 541 KwHrs. So you would be 37% less efficient..

rolion

Connecting the inverter to main

I know it may sound silly but...once the solar panel array(s) are connected to inverter, the AC output / grid exit connectors should be connected to the fuse board, via a dedicated circuit and fuse. Be aware of the neutral and live cable connections !
Then ,once a nominal V_input voltage have been reached, the inverted starts converting DC to AC.

In the happy event of the inverter generating some KW power, going in to the circuit / grid, does that provide free electricity back to supplier ,to yourself or to your neighbour ?
Will it "determine" the AC meter counting to be going in reverse !??

Also, when is no electricity generated from solar, the inverter will just sit duck, not stealing any residual hidden cost from the mains ?

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

In the happy event of the inverter generating some KW power, going in to the circuit / grid, does that provide free electricity back to supplier ,to yourself or to your neighbour ?
Will it "determine" the AC meter counting to be going in reverse !??

Also, when is no electricity generated from solar, the inverter will just sit duck, not stealing any residual hidden cost from the mains ?

The power goes into your local grid and first priority will go to using it on appliances in your house. If you aren't using that much power, then it will push it up the line into the grid. This happens because the voltage on your grid goes up by a tiny amount. It will do that regardless of whether you have a meter or not.

When there is no solar power, the inverter will stay on for a while just in case the sun comes back, and will then shut down. Most inverters use no power in that off state. It is then waiting for incoming DC to fire it up again.

rolion

So...the smart inverter knows the local loop power needs (from fuse board to end users device).
Once no AC needed internal,starts supplying on the ...external line/circuit ?

Also...how is the power generated by inverter going to be "converted" in financial terms...by a smart meter (recording in - out power flow) or by the company dunno...I'm lost here.

Thanks.

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

So...the smart inverter knows the local loop power needs (from fuse board to end users device).
Once no AC needed internal,starts supplying on the ...external line/circuit ?

Also...how is the power generated by inverter going to be "converted" in financial terms...by a smart meter (recording in - out power flow) or by the company dunno...I'm lost here.

Thanks.

Its a bit like pumping water into your kitchen tap. It will increase the pressure throughout the house and water anywhere else in the house would come from this pumped source. The inverter makes the voltage at your fuseboard a tiny bit higher than the incoming grid, so electricity flows from the inverter first.

As for financial conversion, that's very straightforward at the moment. You donate it to ESB. See here. But if we get a tariff, then ESB could either fit a separate meter to measure exported power, or fit a smart meter which does both directions and a few other tricks besides.

rolion

Hi,

Received the 2 pv panels...they look great
I've dropped them in the living room and while partially exposed to sun light I have between 26 and 31 volts on my multimeter.

There is a metal bars supplier beside old N2 cross, i guess bluesteel are called.I'm going to buy some steel metal L shaped frames and build support for each panel.I may need to make removable so that easy to change the panel if needed.
Also some bolts to support trough tiles and fix it on the inside.
I'll cut the MC4 cable connector and use a "normal" electrical joining box for 10-20Amps per panel.Cable with 1.5mm section to join them.The original MC4 cables,connectors and clamping adds to the cost of few panels...

Keep you posted.

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

Hi,

Received the 2 pv panels...they look great
Also some bolts to support trough tiles and fix it on the inside.
I'll cut the MC4 cable connector and use a "normal" electrical joining box for 10-20Amps per panel.Cable with 1.5mm section to join them.The original MC4 cables,connectors and clamping adds to the cost of few panels...

Keep you posted.

Errr. I wouldn't do this. I know quite a few installers cut corners by drilling slates, but this will cause problems over time. There are hundreds of houses in UK having to have their systems re-installed due to leaks / broken slates from wind loading with this system.

MC4 connectors are about €3 a pair and are IP67 rated. Waterproofing that connection is vital to the effective working of the system and is worth the €3. Your inverter will come with a free pair, so if you want to save, use those on the roof and hard-wire at the inverter end. I would use cable with 4mm section to reduce losses. This should be double-insulated stranded wire (which is the same as the cable already on the panels).

There are reasons for most of the standard practices used in the MCS standards in the UK. You deviate from these at your peril IMHO

rolion

OK. ..I know you're right.

Panels will be installed on the roof with more or less same frame chassis format as the solar tubes and definitely stronger due to backside wind portance/lift/pressure.Installed at 10-15 cm height to roof.

ALL of the electrical cabling will be done inside the house with cables trough slates and fully insulated with a kit that I have from hrv.Each frame will be doubled supported in the attic with a simillar frame to spread the load across wooden battens/joists.
Each panels original cable will come inside the attic where the MC4 gets removed.All panels then combined in serial / parallel in an industry standard junction box and from there down to inverter with MC4.All electrical work carried by authorised spark, friend of mine.No exterior cabling "improving" at all and all mounted in a fireproof metal box in the attic.

The inverter will be mounted outside, beside the esb meter, under an insulated and closed section of extension built between houses.

I wasn't aware of 4mm wire,thanks for sharing !

Regards

PS
MC4 cables here:
http://touch.adverts.ie/campers-motorhomes/solar-panel-mc4-cable-15-meters-4mm-crimped-with-mc4-plugs/4767046

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

OK. ..I know you're right.

Panels will be installed on the roof with more or less same frame chassis format as the solar tubes and definitely stronger due to backside wind portance/lift/pressure.Installed at 10-15 cm height to roof.

ALL of the electrical cabling will be done inside the house with cables trough slates and fully insulated with a kit that I have from hrv.Each frame will be doubled supported in the attic with a simillar frame to spread the load across wooden battens/joists.
Each panels original cable will come inside the attic where the MC4 gets removed.All panels then combined in serial / parallel in an industry standard junction box and from there down to inverter with MC4.All electrical work carried by authorised spark, friend of mine.No exterior cabling "improving" at all and all mounted in a fireproof metal box in the attic.

The inverter will be mounted outside, beside the esb meter, under an insulated and closed section of extension built between houses.

I wasn't aware of 4mm wire,thanks for sharing !

Regards

PS
MC4 cables here:
http://touch.adverts.ie/campers-motorhomes/solar-panel-mc4-cable-15-meters-4mm-crimped-with-mc4-plugs/4767046

I reckon the kit to mount this on standard solar rails with roof hooks, clamps, flashings and all the standards adhered to would cost about €160 plus VAT. Is it really going to save that much by the time you frame inside and out? I would just be worried that you will end up with damaged slates or tiles..

rolion

quentingargan wrote: »

I reckon the kit to mount this on standard solar rails with roof hooks, clamps, flashings and all the standards adhered to would cost about €160 plus VAT. Is it really going to save that much by the time you frame inside and out? I would just be worried that you will end up with damaged slates or tiles..

From where !??

quentingargan

rolion wrote: »

From where !??

PM me if you'd like a few options.

Drexl

Hi,

Can anyone tell me if there's a minimum distance from a solar panel to the top of a dormer ridge, or gully of a dormer ridge, (the dormer is in the middle of the overall roof)? Also, is there a minimum distance to a roof mounted skylight? The only requirements I can find are that the PV panels have to be a certain distance from the roof plane, and 50cm from a roof 'edge'. Am I correct in assuming that the roof edge only applies to the outer edges of the roof, i.e. the top ridge, the gable sides, and the bottom near the soffit?

Please also mention where the requirement is specified, if they exist. Thanks.

quentingargan

Drexl wrote: »

Hi,

Can anyone tell me if there's a minimum distance from a solar panel to the top of a dormer ridge, or gully of a dormer ridge, (the dormer is in the middle of the overall roof)? Also, is there a minimum distance to a roof mounted skylight? The only requirements I can find are that the PV panels have to be a certain distance from the roof plane, and 50cm from a roof 'edge'. Am I correct in assuming that the roof edge only applies to the outer edges of the roof, i.e. the top ridge, the gable sides, and the bottom near the soffit?

Please also mention where the requirement is specified, if they exist. Thanks.

See attached. I think it is just the ridge, gable and eave. But you want to avoid partial shading from a dormer as well...

Drexl

Thanks for that quentingargan, that's where I got my info also. No option on the shading from the dormers. Also, will have to mount some on the North facing roof, I will accept the ~33% de-rating factor. We need a specific amount to meet Part L.

quentingargan

Drexl wrote: »

Thanks for that quentingargan, that's where I got my info also. No option on the shading from the dormers. Also, will have to mount some on the North facing roof, I will accept the ~33% de-rating factor. We need a specific amount to meet Part L.

Jeez.. North? Have you checked out higher output modules. Some 285W units aren't too crazy. PM me if you'd like me to look over the XML.

Just one suggestion - if you have partial shading, I would use panel optimisers rather than microinverters to prevent partial shading from killing the complete array. I prefer to keep grid-connected power electronics somewhere accessible. To my mind it is bonkers putting an inverter on the roof. Inverters can and do fail, often because of grid surges.

eazboss

Hi folks,
Have any of you use the Easy Roof in roof panel solution with slates and the number of a roofer/chippy I could contact who has done the slate work around this solutions flashing?

The reason I ask is, my wife (ahem) and I are building a house at the moment and I have bought a number of PV panels along with the in roof Easy Roof mounting system as this system seemed very straight forward, and I'm sure it still is so long as you know what you are doing....I don't.
Our roofer, who I have great confidence in, has never slated around such a solution before and wants to do the job right (as do I (...sorry we) of course but he just can't see exactly how it is done. My supplier has sent on documentation and taken a number of calls off me on the matter but they just can't answer the specific details of what is required to do in terms of the slating as they are PV suppliers, not roofers. They are trying to source the contact info. of roofers who have installed their panels and mounting solution previously but this doesn't seem like a straight forward process (much like mounting the panels) so I don't know when or if this is forthcoming.
I know that if my roofer just has a short conversation with someone who has slated around the Easy Roof flashing before I'm sure they could have it all sorted in minutes but I don't have such a number!
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.