Claas 46 rollant

Matty6270

Hi there. Just after buying a claas46. Never baled b4 and I'm not making d best of bales. Any good tip. Also d buzzer is not working so is auto tie d best It's also twine

lab man

what with rows are u making ,, have em as wide as the reel , is it a chopper or non, there is a valve o the side of the baler that wears after time. if ya rip it and put a penny into it it will usually help you can also get a new valve on dd sometmes about 250e i think best of luck with it lab man

Matty6270

lab man wrote: »

what with rows are u making ,, have em as wide as the reel , is it a chopper or non, there is a valve o the side of the baler that wears after time. if ya rip it and put a penny into it it will usually help you can also get a new valve on dd sometmes about 250e i think best of luck with it lab man

Thanks for the reply. Is not a chopper and we use a haybob. The back door of the baler open when it is 3/4 full. Is that normal. Also by changing the valve wat difference would that make. The bales I'm making is small and untidy. Is it best to have it on auto tie or not. Wud the bale be bigger if I just go by the clock

Reggie.

Matty6270 wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. Is not a chopper and we use a haybob. The back door of the baler open when it is 3/4 full. Is that normal. Also by changing the valve wat difference would that make. The bales I'm making is small and untidy. Is it best to have it on auto tie or not. Wud the bale be bigger if I just go by the clock

I think the sensor is for the back door hydraulics to keep the door closed. If the door is opening before the bale is ready then this sensor may be faulty

dzer2

Matty6270 wrote: »

Hi there. Just after buying a claas46. Never baled b4 and I'm not making d best of bales. Any good tip. Also d buzzer is not working so is auto tie d best It's also twine

Best of luck Matty

Firstly with twine you need to run the baler as fast when tying as when baling. Start the bale on low revs until the crop reaches the chamber as soon as the bale starts to turn drive on as fast as you can over the rank making sure the pick up is full. Are you loosing pressure on the dial as you bale? The door will open about 3 inches when the bale is full. The valve that is mentioned is for keeping the door pressure whilst baling. There is a spring in it that weakens over time and if you place a spacer in there it will keep the pressure up.

Matty6270

dzer2 wrote: »

Best of luck Matty

Firstly with twine you need to run the baler as fast when tying as when baling. Start the bale on low revs until the crop reaches the chamber as soon as the bale starts to turn drive on as fast as you can over the rank making sure the pick up is full. Are you loosing pressure on the dial as you bale? The door will open about 3 inches when the bale is full. The valve that is mentioned is for keeping the door pressure whilst baling. There is a spring in it that weakens over time and if you place a spacer in there it will keep the pressure up.

So have low revs on like 400rpm is it,until bale starts to turn. Then up to 540. Wen will you know d bale is turning in d chamber and put the the twine on at 540 as well ? Will dis make a big difference. Also is it a big deal that the door is opening

dzer2

Matty6270 wrote: »

So have low revs on like 400rpm is it,until bale starts to turn. Then up to 540. Wen will you know d bale is turning in d chamber and put the the twine on at 540 as well ? Will dis make a big difference. Also is it a big deal that the door is opening

I have being using a claas for 20 yrs I go by the sound of the tractor.

I would start baling at about 1400 revs on the engine and then up to 2000 revs to finish the bale. The door opening is no great deal as this is just the pressure of the bale. It will make a a big difference plus the width of the rank it needs to be about 6 inches wider than the pick up. This will ensure that the pick up is full going into the bale

Matty6270

dzer2 wrote: »

I have being using a claas for 20 yrs I go by the sound of the tractor.

I would start baling at about 1400 revs on the engine and then up to 2000 revs to finish the bale. The door opening is no great deal as this is just the pressure of the bale. It will make a a big difference plus the width of the rank it needs to be about 6 inches wider than the pick up.
This will ensure that the pick up is full going into the bale

That's great. Wen I'm going by the clock on the front I was told to let the dial go to the red and stop for a few seconds and go another few yards.? And shud you stop dead wen it starts to twine?

Zr105

Matty6270 wrote: »

That's great. Wen I'm going by the clock on the front I was told to let the dial go to the red and stop for a few seconds and go another few yards.? And shud you stop dead wen it starts to twine?

Are you tying the bale just when it hits the beginning of the red? Our buzzer only goes off when it hits the very top of the red, if the door is opening a lot you can get away with tapping the spool a dart to close the door mid way through the bale, but once it doesn't go back to far I wouldn't worry to much.

Also by altering the belt on the Pullys on the side of the baler you can change how many turns of twine are on the bale which might tidy up the bales a bit more if their very raggedy, but it will mean more twine will be used.

Matty6270

Zr105 wrote: »

Are you tying the bale just when it hits the beginning of the red? Our buzzer only goes off when it hits the very top of the red, if the door is opening a lot you can get away with tapping the spool a dart to close the door mid way through the bale, but once it doesn't go back to far I wouldn't worry to much.

Also by altering the belt on the Pullys on the side of the baler you can change how many turns of twine are on the bale which might tidy up the bales a bit more if their very raggedy, but it will mean more twine will be used.

I let it go to the top of the red and stop and the dial comes back a wee bit and then drive on 5-8 meters and stop and put the net on. But I aways was running at 2000 revs even at d start

dzer2

Zr105 wrote: »

Are you tying the bale just when it hits the beginning of the red? Our buzzer only goes off when it hits the very top of the red, if the door is opening a lot you can get away with tapping the spool a dart to close the door mid way through the bale, but once it doesn't go back to far I wouldn't worry to much.

Also by altering the belt on the Pullys on the side of the baler you can change how many turns of twine are on the bale which might tidy up the bales a bit more if their very raggedy, but it will mean more twine will be used.

I would let the needle up to the top of the red also

Matty6270

dzer2 wrote: »

I would let the needle up to the top of the red also

So it's ok to stop wait til the needle goes down and go again until it goes to the top line of the red

Zr105

Matty6270 wrote: »

I let it go to the top of the red and stop and the dial comes back a wee bit and then drive on 5-8 meters and stop and put the net on. But I aways was running at 2000 revs even at d start

Never bothered to stop, even after the buzzer goes I'd let it on into the swarth a bit then hit the net, and even when I'd stop she'd still be pulling in a bit as we're baling behind the big rake(46chopper with wide pickup so handle the big swarths grand.)

and never bothered to alter revs here, used to have too let off the revs a bit to open the door on a neighbours tractor years ago as it just kept blowing the pipes out

Matty6270

Zr105 wrote: »

Never bothered to stop, even after the buzzer goes I'd let it on into the swarth a bit then hit the net, and even when I'd stop she'd still be pulling in a bit as we're baling behind the big rake(46chopper with wide pickup so handle the big swarths grand.)

and never bothered to alter revs here, used to have too let off the revs a bit to open the door on a neighbours tractor years ago as it just kept blowing the pipes out

I'm baleing ere now. But it gets clogged if revs are to low

dzer2

Matty6270 wrote: »

I'm baleing ere now. But it gets clogged if revs are to low

Go down a gear

Zr105

Matty6270 wrote: »

I'm baleing ere now. But it gets clogged if revs are to low

Because yours is a non chopper you'll have to travel slower until the bale gets about half-three quarter full, then the bale will be turning within the chamber enough that it will help pull the stuff in from the pick up, before that the material is fairly loose and will just be tumbling about inside the chamber and won't really help to pull the swarth in

9935452

Matty6270 wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. Is not a chopper and we use a haybob. The back door of the baler open when it is 3/4 full. Is that normal. Also by changing the valve wat difference would that make. The bales I'm making is small and untidy. Is it best to have it on auto tie or not. Wud the bale be bigger if I just go by the clock

We used to run a narrow pickup twine 46 about 10 years back.
It always made better looking bales straight off the mower.
The haybob never made a good square row, always bits thrown out of the row.
Keep the pressure on the back door, you will see it dropping on the gauge and just hive it a dart every now and again.
The back door will open a bit at the end of the bale, normal,
We always ran it with as little twine as possible and made good bales.
Always ran it at 540.
Drive slow , let the bale pack, if a lump is pulled in it can trigger the twine.
Always ran it in auto. ours used to trigger half way up the red. Which is adjustable.
Also does a star form on the end of the bale . If it doesnt your row isnt wide enough or you are not packing enough

Matty6270

9935452 wrote: »

We used to run a narrow pickup twine 46 about 10 years back.
It always made better looking bales straight off the mower.
The haybob never made a good square row, always bits thrown out of the row.
Keep the pressure on the back door, you will see it dropping on the gauge and just hive it a dart every now and again.
The back door will open a bit at the end of the bale, normal,
We always ran it with as little twine as possible and made good bales.
Always ran it at 540.
Drive slow , let the bale pack, if a lump is pulled in it can trigger the twine.
Always ran it in auto. ours used to trigger half way up the red. Which is adjustable.
Also does a star form on the end of the bale . If it doesnt your row isnt wide enough or you are not packing enough

Thanks for d good point. I did have it round at 540. But I must be going to fast. What would be d right speed. And when it starts to twine do you drive on a little bit or stop straight away. My bales are just untidy and loose

9935452

Matty6270 wrote: »

Thanks for d good point. I did have it round at 540. But I must be going to fast. What would be d right speed. And when it starts to twine do you drive on a little bit or stop straight away. My bales are just untidy and loose

Try different speeds and see if it makes a difference but we used to make bales going fair slow especially if they were doing your own.

When the baler started to twine id stop. I never wanted to do damage to the rollars or bearings. We were going up far enough into the red IMO


By untidy i assume you mean fluffy ends. not a star .
If it is fluffy i blame the haybob.
If it is possible pick a few bales off a 10foot mower which lays the grass at about 5 foot wide.
I picked 2 fields beside each other. one off the mower , the other was turned and rowed with the haybob, which had a few tines missing.
The field off the mower made lovely bales , the ones off the haybob made messy bales