Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Single Speed Conversion

  • 01-07-2015 11:12am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭


    I've a Surly Cross Check built as a Cross bike... I'm rebuilding another bike at the moment and I'd like to convert the Surly into a single speed in order to use the components... Anyway, I looked into it a bit already, but I'm a bit confused on two things.
    1) If I go with a simple SS conversion and get one of those conversion kit, can I use it with a normal road chainset? A Tiagra for example?
    2) Would it be possible to build it as a fixie? I see there are 135mm flip flop mtb hubs, but it seems impossible to find a wheel with a 135mm or 130mm fixed hub... is getting the wheel built my only option here?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    hey CLod,

    When I was running mine single speed I used a load of old spacers from old cassettes, a rear toothed ring from one of the old cassettes, and one chainring up front, again, it was one I had lying around. I also used a 10 spd chain. The only thing I needed to change on the drivetrain (apart from removing derailleurs, gears, chainring and shortening the chain) was the screw/bolts holding the chainring to the crank spider. The ones from the double setup I was using were too long, so I needed shorter ones. They were a couple of quid in my LBS. There is no need for the conversion kit, but you will need to measure your chainline very carefully, and line up the rear sprocket with the front chainring. This needs to be as straight as possible. I did drop the chain a few times, but that was normally over very rough ground in CX races. I am looking at a raceface narrow/wide chainring for next cx season which should reduce the risk of dropping the chain...

    For fixed, I suspect you will need to have/build a wheel with whatever hub you choose.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,479 ✭✭✭rollingscone


    clod71 wrote: »
    I've a Surly Cross Check built as a Cross bike... I'm rebuilding another bike at the moment and I'd like to convert the Surly into a single speed in order to use the components... Anyway, I looked into it a bit already, but I'm a bit confused on two things.
    1) If I go with a simple SS conversion and get one of those conversion kit, can I use it with a normal road chainset? A Tiagra for example?
    2) Would it be possible to build it as a fixie? I see there are 135mm flip flop mtb hubs, but it seems impossible to find a wheel with a 135mm or 130mm fixed hub... is getting the wheel built my only option here?

    Thanks

    The teeth on a conversion kit sprocket are spaced for single speed chains.

    What dropouts do the Cross Check have?

    I have a single speed crankset with probably 10km on it if you're in the market.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    The teeth on a conversion kit sprocket are spaced for single speed chains.

    What dropouts do the Cross Check have?

    I have a single speed crankset with probably 10km on it if you're in the market.

    cross check has horizontal dropouts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    hey CLod,

    When I was running mine single speed I used a load of old spacers from old cassettes, a rear toothed ring from one of the old cassettes, and one chainring up front, again, it was one I had lying around. I also used a 10 spd chain. The only thing I needed to change on the drivetrain (apart from removing derailleurs, gears, chainring and shortening the chain) was the screw/bolts holding the chainring to the crank spider. The ones from the double setup I was using were too long, so I needed shorter ones. They were a couple of quid in my LBS. There is no need for the conversion kit, but you will need to measure your chainline very carefully, and line up the rear sprocket with the front chainring. This needs to be as straight as possible. I did drop the chain a few times, but that was normally over very rough ground in CX races. I am looking at a raceface narrow/wide chainring for next cx season which should reduce the risk of dropping the chain...

    For fixed, I suspect you will need to have/build a wheel with whatever hub you choose.

    thanks Lenny!
    so I basically need the spacers and some shorter screw/bolts for the cranks.
    That would work a treat as I don't have to buy all those things.
    Curiosity: so you were racing the CX on single speed???
    I've a 46/36 in the front... I suppose I will leave the 46 on with a 16/18 cog? What would you recommend?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    The teeth on a conversion kit sprocket are spaced for single speed chains.

    What dropouts do the Cross Check have?

    I have a single speed crankset with probably 10km on it if you're in the market.

    it was picked among the many options also because of that feature :)
    Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    yeah - i was racing single speed. I am probably going abck to single speed for this year. it's just neater. I think i was running a 36/18. 46/18 would be a tough gear on hills. The beauty of the spacers and cassette bits is that you have lots of gears to try.



    08106-singlespeed-chainringbolts.jpg

    Ill try to find a picture of mine set up as single speed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    not a great picture but you get the idea. I changed a few things, like the stem before racing it.

    353803.jpg

    Also running carbon tubs now when racing. For next season I was thinking of a carbon fork and a narrow wide chainring. Either 1*10 or single speed. I'm not sure yet. I may also put better brakes on it.

    bit muddy :)

    353804.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    yeah - i was racing single speed. I am probably going abck to single speed for this year. it's just neater. I think i was running a 36/18. 46/18 would be a tough gear on hills. The beauty of the spacers and cassette bits is that you have lots of gears to try.



    08106-singlespeed-chainringbolts.jpg

    Ill try to find a picture of mine set up as single speed.

    Ah yeah sure, but at the moment I will only use it to commute in and out of work and with a 36/18 I'd spin out even before exiting the estate... :D Changing the front chainring is relatively simple and it's just a matter to shorten or add links to the chain then, I suppose.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    not a great picture but you get the idea. I changed a few things, like the stem before racing it.

    353803.jpg

    Also running carbon tubs now when racing. For next season I was thinking of a carbon fork and a narrow wide chainring. Either 1*10 or single speed. I'm not sure yet. I may also put better brakes on it.

    bit muddy :)

    353804.jpg

    I'd definitely look into a carbon fork if I decide to race in the mud later on this year... The steel fork is very comfy, but it's like an anchor when the road goes up!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    i went from a 36 to a 42 up front without having to change the length of the chain. You may get lucky!


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    i went from a 36 to a 42 up front without having to change the length of the chain. You may get lucky!

    by the way, I might have said it already... I like that vomit green!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    yeah - it does grow on you, although I think the official term is Hopsital green :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    yeah - it does grow on you, although I think the official term is Hopsital green :)

    Here's mine on a countryside errand last Sunday.
    I've a bit of Bianchi green on mine... 😊


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    yeah - it does grow on you, although I think the official term is Hopsital green :)

    Here's mine during an errand in the countryside last Sunday. I've also some Bianchi green on mine :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    nice. what brakes are you running on it and how do you find them>?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭clod71


    lennymc wrote: »
    nice. what brakes are you running on it and how do you find them>?

    Ha, only see this now...

    They're simple Tektro CR720, 20 quid for the pair... cheap, but you want to start braking 100 mt before, scary on wet... start braking 200 mt before! :)


Advertisement