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HKC Securewatch PIR question

  • 16-06-2015 1:22pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭


    Hi,
    I putting a PIR onto my HKC Securewatch alarm. I've run into a problem wiring it up to the panel. I'm using a Active 8 PIR single channel. Two slots are marked EOL and two slots are marked TAMPER.
    I hooked it up as follows but it's showing as open when I do a walk test. If I'm using 4 core (2 wires to 12v+\-) the other two should go straight from PIR EOL to Zone 7 Alarm with resistor in line?
    I also changed the zone type to single EOL.

    It's been a while since a hooked up a PIR.

    many thanks in advance


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Wire the alarm across AL & AL & programme as non eol.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    bbability wrote: »
    Hi,
    I putting a PIR onto my HKC Securewatch alarm. I've run into a problem wiring it up to the panel. I'm using a Active 8 PIR single channel. Two slots are marked EOL and two slots are marked TAMPER.
    I hooked it up as follows but it's showing as open when I do a walk test. If I'm using 4 core (2 wires to 12v+\-) the other two should go straight from PIR EOL to Zone 7 Alarm with resistor in line?
    I also changed the zone type to single EOL.

    It's been a while since a hooked up a PIR.

    many thanks in advance

    Yes it should be wired in series with the alarm on the device and the zone changed to single end of line.
    Is the resistor you are using 4K7?
    You could also set up the device for duel end of line using the 4 core cable.
    He is a diagram that will help if you want to do so.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭bbability


    I'm only getting back to this today. Tried your method KoolKid bit it shows up as open zone. I changed the zone hardware back to no eol. Still no luck.
    So I tried the dual Eol, changed the zone hardware to dual Eol and it closed the zone but now I have tamper on that zone. Its the only device on this particular zone. It has me pulling my hair out!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    bbability wrote: »
    I'm only getting back to this today. Tried your method KoolKid bit it shows up as open zone. I changed the zone hardware back to no eol. Still no luck.
    So I tried the dual Eol, changed the zone hardware to dual Eol and it closed the zone but now I have tamper on that zone. Its the only device on this particular zone. It has me pulling my hair out!

    It sounds like you have an issue with the cable.
    Have you tested the cores to confirm none are broken?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    bbability wrote: »
    I'm only getting back to this today. Tried your method KoolKid bit it shows up as open zone. I changed the zone hardware back to no eol. Still no luck.
    So I tried the dual Eol, changed the zone hardware to dual Eol and it closed the zone but now I have tamper on that zone. Its the only device on this particular zone. It has me pulling my hair out!

    And if you short out the cables at the PiR & leave it as non eol does the zone close?
    Is the PiR definitely getting power?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭ei0675


    bbability wrote: »
    I'm only getting back to this today. Tried your method KoolKid bit it shows up as open zone. I changed the zone hardware back to no eol. Still no luck.
    So I tried the dual Eol, changed the zone hardware to dual Eol and it closed the zone but now I have tamper on that zone. Its the only device on this particular zone. It has me pulling my hair out!

    Maybe I'm missreading your post (correct me if I am) but if your using dual Eol and.zone closes and using 4 core cable, 2 cores for power, 2 cores for zone and wired as provided by Altor, then if Tamper is looped out at panel surely you should not be getting a tamper fault!? Silly question but is the tamper looped out at panel?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    If you are using duel eol the tamper should be looped out at the panel as the alarm is reading the resistance on the alarm loop. If that loop is open or shorted before the resistors it will register a tamper.
    I want to establish is the cable ok. So programme for non eol then short out the alarm pair at the PiR. If the zone closes the pair is good.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭bbability


    Lads I went back to non Eol. Alarm to alarm and tamper to tamper. Everything showing ok no open zones or tampers. However its not activating during walk test. Power ok. Cables ok. Not sure if I should have resisitor in line or in series


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Ok. So staying with non eol, close off the tamper pair and walk test by opening and closing the alarm pair.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭bbability


    Guys just to get back to you and once again thanks for the help and advice. It ends up the zone I was using has developed a tamper fault which I never realised until I had the zone disconnected and belled out. So I switched Zone to Unused and moved the wiring to Zone 8 and all seems ok Oh and routing through another thread I noticed that I should have wired the PIR from Relay to Alarm and not EOL to Alarm. As soon as I done this the PIR worked perfectly on walk test with no faults. Its an ACTIVE8 PIR.

    Now I've run into another issue. There is a problem with the setting the alarm. When I do a walk test the zone which is to E/E and Zone 8 has a PIR which is set to alarm and also switched zone 8 option to Access, the alarm is activating after I leave the house with internal siren and when I enter code it displays EXIT Fault.

    I have walked tested the Zone that is the E/E which will activate when I open the door but will not when I close it. I must have changed a setting somewhere. Its just a contact on the door and it lines up perfectly to each other.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Have you enabled a setting called latch by any chance?
    Otherwise back to basics....Remove the wiring from the contact and mimic the opening & closing by joining & separating the pair.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭bbability


    Latch setting not activated. Took the cables off the contact. When I put them together and start the walk test:
    1. Separate pair = int bell sounds
    2. Join pair back together = no sound


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Have you another pir to try on it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,504 ✭✭✭bbability


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Have you another pir to try on it?

    No but I'll get one. I am right in saying that the on walk test the internal siren should sound when I open and close the door. It only goes off when I open the door. The PIR is pointing directly at the door on a different Zone which is set up as an access zone.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    No. Its working correctly as long as it goes off when it opens again.
    I take it that was what was happening when you tested with the pair of wires.


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