Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Hotpoint Fridge-freezer RFA70 Awlays on

  • 08-06-2015 6:14pm
    #1
    clvk07
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭


    Hi

    It seems that the fridge is always on and the fridge department gets all frost on the back.

    It has been doing this in the last few days. If I unplug the fridge and connect the power back it stays off and all the ice defrosts. It goes back on and off as normal for 12-13 hours and after it stays on again all the time. So basically the fix is to unplug and plug in back.....

    Any idea on what could be wrong? Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    The Red Ace
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    Follow the same advice as I have given the user with the bosch in the next post, if it is building a big chunk of ice in the fridge compartment if left run on it has a refrigerant leak


  • #3
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Hi

    It seems that the fridge is always on and the fridge department gets all frost on the back.

    It has been doing this in the last few days. If I unplug the fridge and connect the power back it stays off and all the ice defrosts. It goes back on and off as normal for 12-13 hours and after it stays on again all the time. So basically the fix is to unplug and plug in back.....

    Any idea on what could be wrong? Thanks

    A little late in replying but.....I had the same problems in 2008 with a Hotpoint FridgeFreezer Model HM315NI (Manual Defrost) . It would either run continuously or not at atall, the thermostatic adjustment did absolutely nothing, a new thermostat was fitted under guarantee and the Fridge worked "sortoff" for another year and then I had the same problems again.
    I got fed up so I just fitted a 24 hour Timer timed at one hour on and one hour off and shorted out the thermostatic control. I defrost it every 4/5 weeks. It has performed perfectly for the past 6 years in this mode.


  • #4
    The Red Ace
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    JTC if the correct stat was fitted with all three leads fitted in their correct positions and the fridge cabinet is reaching approx. +3 degrees it should cut in and out on temp. without any problems.


  • #5
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    The Red Ace wrote: »
    JTC if the correct stat was fitted with all three leads fitted in their correct positions and the fridge cabinet is reaching approx. +3 degrees it should cut in and out on temp. without any problems.
    Yes, it was/is a bit baffling alright as not only was a new thermostat fitted under warranty but I also got a new one when I was in the UK and fitted it myself. The thermostat is a K59-L1816 which has a capillary length of probably 700 MM (but it measured at about 660 to 670 MM) there was a bit of insulation tape near the top to give an insertion length into the sensing tube of 430 MM. I presume that this sensing tube is soldered/welded onto the evaporator at some point so as to give a representative temperature of the fridge and freezer requirements. I can only suggest that maybe this tube has become detached somehow from the evaporator?. If I let the compressor run continuously then the fridge compartment will reach 0C after a few hours so I would say that there is little or no refrigerant shortage.


  • #6
    The Red Ace
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    you definitely have no refrigerant leak if this is a six year old problem but it could have been undercharged when filled at the factory, the end of the capillary should touch the last point on the freezing coil when the compressor is running and if fixed externally the very end of this capillary has to be clamped, if fitted internally you wont know but I have never come across this. on the stat 6 is power in 4 is the line to the compressor. (edit) push the capillary down the tube until it can go no further ignore the red tape


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    The Red Ace wrote: »
    you definitely have no refrigerant leak if this is a six year old problem but it could have been undercharged when filled at the factory, the end of the capillary should touch the last point on the freezing coil when the compressor is running and if fixed externally the very end of this capillary has to be clamped, if fitted internally you wont know but I have never come across this. on the stat 6 is power in 4 is the line to the compressor. (edit) push the capillary down the tube until it can go no further ignore the red tape

    The F.Freezer never operated consistently on the thermostat from Day1.
    I think, as you say above, that the most likely explanation is that it left the factory undercharged, I had/have pushed the probe fully home until it couldnt go any further, this coincides with the red tape protruding a few MM, so everything seems OK from a capillary positioning point of view. terminals 6 & 4 are also wired as you suggested.
    I checked the power consumption with an Energy Monitor a week after purchasing it, on cut in it pulls 92/93 watts and after 10 minutes or so it falls to a very steady 77/78 watts and it is still doing exactly the same 6 years later. The compressor rated power is 100 watts.
    Thanks for your help/suggestions, I think I'll motor on into the sunset with it on manual as its doing the job fine in this mode.
    (Edit)I think I stated previously that the thermostat is a K59L 1816, I cant find the operating temperatures for this exact stat but my understanding is that a K59 has a constant cut in temperature of maybe +3C or +5C and a linear or bent cut out of maybe -10C to -30C, I,ve never understood why the adjustment made little or no difference whether set on min or max setting, have you any info on this stat?.
    The sensor is (or was anyway when I first removed it) unsleeved.


  • #8
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    Have finally got the F.Freezer working properly which it had never done even when brand new and the fitting of two new replacement thermostats. A friend of mine gave me a thermostat from a Frigidaire Model which he was replacing due to loss of refrigerant. This thermostat, a Rohs WDF 28K-920-328, is around 50 mm shorter than the alleged proper thermostat for my F.Freezer and doesn't reach the bottom of the sensing tube, it is also sleeved/sheathed for a short length at the top. My F.Freezer is now working perfectly at an index setting of 2.

    Should also state that the original stat had about 300 mm of the capillary coiled inside the cover of the thermostat and I often wondered if this was picking up the temperature of the fridge and contsiributing to a "false signal". The total length of the Rohs stat is only around 360 mm with the short portion above the thermostat sleeve being sheathed.


Advertisement