A steal for a Scheppach 3200HMS Plainer/ Thicknesser

Sean Farrell

Hi there. I'm making up a workshop and the local school was practically giving away ther old equipment. I got their Scheppach HNS 3200 Plainer/thicknesser at a knock down price. I went online ..i could only get the info on the Scheppach 3200ci..a newer model i guess. Anybody know anything about the older model....also how much does it way? As i will be collecting it next week and need advuce on how best to put it in a van.? I would welcome other posters opinion....Kind regards.

Sean Farrell

I should have typed Scheppach HMS3200 not HNS apologies everyone.

recipio

Sean Farrell wrote: »

Hi there. I'm making up a workshop and the local school was practically giving away ther old equipment. I got their Scheppach HNS 3200 Plainer/thicknesser at a knock down price. I went online ..i could only get the info on the Scheppach 3200ci..a newer model i guess. Anybody know anything about the older model....also how much does it way? As i will be collecting it next week and need advuce on how best to put it in a van.? I would welcome other posters opinion....Kind regards.

You are a busy man and congrats on getting a great machine.!
Has it an aluminium or cast iron top ?
It has the 300 mm table instead of 250 mm on the good old HM260 but I think the thicknessing is the same - about 140 mm ?
They are reliable machines and parts are readily available. The ci version was to allow bolt on accessories like a horizontal slot morticer but most people don't bother. Its now out of production but they are highly sought after judging by prices on #bay.
They are big old lumps to move and one tip is to drop the thicknesser table and use two planks through the machine ( with a helper ) to get some leverage. Best of luck with it !

Sean Farrell

Thanks recipio...it has a cast iron top(even better news).i got it for 500 euro and could have got it for possibly less. Great idea with the planks. i will be practising the clean & jerk in the weights room of the gym in preparation. There will be 3 of us next week to move it..one with a dodgy back! I saw the amount of shavings it can produce,,,so i will be researching for a good extraction system next.I have a woodstar shop vac....dont know if it will cope....but I will get some tubing first( if thats the tech name for it) and a i'll make up a reducer of sorts to fit it. Believe it or not I only want to be able to thickness stock to be able to make those small boxes u might have seen in previous threads i posted on...i think I'll be going bigger...

recipio

You got a great bargain. Give it a clean up and lubricate the 'bicycle chain' for the thicknesser table with WD40. The Scheppachs have rubber rollers and you can get very precise depths down to 4 mm or less if you put in a false table.
You will need a chip extractor to stop the workshop becoming sawdust central.

Sean Farrell

I was down at the market today and i picked up a little trinket box...mahogany I think..As an exercise I just pulled it apart and drew up its dimensions on paper....this is the sort of small work i intend to do.....so I dont think i wont be investing in a major chip extraction system yet.....but I suppose i'd be better off banging out large timber posts with the thicknesser....more profit to be made and it would pay for itself sooner.

recipio

Sean Farrell wrote: »

I was down at the market today and i picked up a little trinket box...mahogany I think..As an exercise I just pulled it apart and drew up its dimensions on paper....this is the sort of small work i intend to do.....so I dont think i wont be investing in a major chip extraction system yet.....but I suppose i'd be better off banging out large timber posts with the thicknesser....more profit to be made and it would pay for itself sooner.

Sean, I would strongly advise you to get a chip extractor ( they are less than 200 euro ) for the thicknesser. They keep the chips off the part being machined so they are not crushed by the rollers and generally stop the machine 'gumming up' with sawdust. It also better for your lungs !

Sean Farrell

its probably going off the point...but i need to explain.....most of the projects i did before where with mdf...a horror to machine with. Now with my new investments i will be able to work with real wood... the plan is to use the same design with the old mdf boxes, mini chests etc. and intead of using stencils...try marqeutry or some other form of image transfer onto wood. I think the end product will look nicer and more durable and in my opinion real woodwork. I'll pop up some photos of what I'm on about. Also big thank you to recipio for advice on using a coping saw in making plinths plus all the advice. I'm mad into photos to explain things...u never have guest that would u?

Sean Farrell

Oh and here is my samples of what i intend to put on the sides of the boxes, chests ..oh u know what i mean. Just a hot iron is needed and a laser printer and lots of spare time. Now everyone knows the plan...wish i had of gone to the patent office......no worries glad to share...i dont think the time involved would involve making a huge profit...just glad to post it up.

Sean Farrell

Yep.I will take on that advice on getting a decent one..I dont want to destroy that baby i got by not giving it a bit of TLC....e baying a decent extractor at this moment recipio

recipio

Sean Farrell wrote: »

Yep.I will take on that advice on getting a decent one..I dont want to destroy that baby i got by not giving it a bit of TLC....e baying a decent extractor at this moment recipio

Good stuff. The one great thing a thicknesser will do is allow you to buy hardwoods and plane/thickness them to size. You can then design your boxes as you want them. I make jewellery boxes and would rarely go over 12mm in thickness, so I get two sides out of a 25 mm board by splitting it down the middle.
You are getting into a complicated area with hexagonal and octagonal boxes - PM me if you are going to tackle one.

Sean Farrell

Thanks recipio...I'm delighted to have the verstility of that thicknesser. i think u are rite about me starting hexagonal boxes...i'm getting way ahead of myself there.Most of what i do is 12mm thickness...so i assume u use the bandsaw when u split ur 25mm board. I was wondering if a was going to use 25mm oak...i would need a good strong blade on the bandsaw...i dont think a bench mounted band saw would do the trick. Or could i use oak veneered mdf...oh no I'm going back to the bad old days......then veneered plywood then.

recipio

Sean Farrell wrote: »

Thanks recipio...I'm delighted to have the verstility of that thicknesser. i think u are rite about me starting hexagonal boxes...i'm getting way ahead of myself there.Most of what i do is 12mm thickness...so i assume u use the bandsaw when u split ur 25mm board. I was wondering if a was going to use 25mm oak...i would need a good strong blade on the bandsaw...i dont think a bench mounted band saw would do the trick. Or could i use oak veneered mdf...oh no I'm going back to the bad old days......then veneered plywood then.

Nothing wrong in using solid wood. I think the biggest mistake in making boxes is to use wood that is too 'thick' ie over 12mm. It just looks too clumsy.
When you buy 1" hardwood like oak it is generally about 27mm - allowing enough to plane, split down the middle and then thickness.
With bandsaws it is all about power - the more the better - and using a sharp blade. Otherwise use a narrow kerf circular sawblade and flip the board end for end if you don't have enough height on the blade.
Assembling six sides for a hexagon is very tricky. I would try a few regular boxes first !

Sean Farrell

recipio wrote: »

Nothing wrong in using solid wood. I think the biggest mistake in making boxes is to use wood that is too 'thick' ie over 12mm. It just looks too clumsy.
When you buy 1" hardwood like oak it is generally about 27mm - allowing enough to plane, split down the middle and then thickness.
With bandsaws it is all about power - the more the better - and using a sharp blade. Otherwise use a narrow kerf circular sawblade and flip the board end for end if you don't have enough height on the blade.
Assembling six sides for a hexagon is very tricky. I would try a few regular boxes first !

Is it possible to use a narrow kerf circular sawblade on the 10" inch Bosch Gts 10 xc contactors saw I got recently? and yes i think 12mm is the perfect thickness for small boxes they give a more elegant look. The height and length of the boxes i intend to do would be 180mm, i intend to get some stock from Woodworkers & hobbies in Terenure. They do 3m planks of oak at 144mm width, I intend to butt joint them and then plane thickness them then cut them to size. Would that be the best way to go?

recipio

Sean Farrell wrote: »

Is it possible to use a narrow kerf circular sawblade on the 10" inch Bosch Gts 10 xc contactors saw I got recently? and yes i think 12mm is the perfect thickness for small boxes they give a more elegant look. The height and length of the boxes i intend to do would be 180mm, i intend to get some stock from Woodworkers & hobbies in Terenure. They do 3m planks of oak at 144mm width, I intend to butt joint them and then plane thickness them then cut them to size. Would that be the best way to go?

Yes, you should buy a narrow kerf ripping blade. Its far more efficient than a standard crosscut blade.
Just be aware that oak is as hard as the hobs of hell. It tests any machinery !
Other hardwoods like cherry, mahogany, walnut and poplar are a lot 'softer' and easier to work.
Lastly, if you are buying a chip extractor try and get one that can be fitted with a cartridge top later on - they are much better than the cloth bags that most extractors are fitted with.

Calahonda52

Sean Farrell wrote: »

Thanks recipio...it has a cast iron top(even better news).i got it for 500 euro and could have got it for possibly less. Great idea with the planks. i will be practising the clean & jerk in the weights room of the gym in preparation. There will be 3 of us next week to move it..one with a dodgy back! I saw the amount of shavings it can produce,,,so i will be researching for a good extraction system next.I have a woodstar shop vac....dont know if it will cope....but I will get some tubing first( if thats the tech name for it) and a i'll make up a reducer of sorts to fit it. Believe it or not I only want to be able to thickness stock to be able to make those small boxes u might have seen in previous threads i posted on...i think I'll be going bigger...

Looks like a good buy.
The spec is here
http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=10836

I presume its 240 volt single phase..

On moving, while I understand the idea behind the planks through the body of the machine, at 202 kg I think you run a serious risk of straining the machine or the rollers or what ever.
If you do that you will never fix it.

Good luck!

recipio

[QUOTE

On moving, while I understand the idea behind the planks through the body of the machine, at 202 kg I think you run a serious risk of straining the machine or the rollers or what ever.[/QUOTE]

That is a good point - I had read the tip somewhere and stand corrected. It would work if the boards had a scallop cut out to avoid the rollers and engage the frame of the machine - but a pallet lifter would be much better.

Calahonda52

Even lifting it by the adjustable table could be a risk as well, at 100kg each end.
As I said, all you want is something to get strained a bit and it will break your heart, especially with thin material.

Have a close look at the frame as Recipio suggests.
else
http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-32916554

Sean Farrell

So i eventually gthe machine to the garage without much fuss. It helps when one of the guys moving it is an olympic standard weightlifter! When i went to collect it from the school it was hooked up to a shop vac. and had been set up like that for most of its existence in the school. The teacher said it was used mainly for thicknessing and was serviced once every year. he said he never had any issues with stray chippings with the shop vac set up...but then again he only put pine board or soft hardwood thru the machine. It was a lot lighter than the 200 kg it supposedly weighed...it might have something to do with its weight distribution. It just took two guys at oppsite ends of the planer table to lift it gently. The idea of the two planks thru the machine was deeply frowned upon by the woodworker teacher..but its now safeand secure in my possession. So i'm relieved and thanks everyone for their input.

recipio

I see one extractor hood on the bed of the machine. There should be another to sit on the thicknesser table when in planing mode.
Great bargain !

Sean Farrell

Thanks recipio......I'll give the woodworker teacher a ring...he gave me the impression that he never really used the planer ...so it mite be lying around somewhere in his school. He did'nt even know what the fence was for if u can see it in the photo...he thought it was for a mortiser. He ran me thru some stock with the thicknesser...it worked a gem........

recipio

Sean,
I'm going on the smaller HM260 which came with two extractor hoods. The two models were produced side by side. Later models have a 'swinging' metal attachment in the machine with only one hood. See if you can get the two functions hooked up with the hood you have.

Sean Farrell

I think its the later model version....i hope it is..I havent really the chance to get a look at it..been so busy with "life" at the mo. I'll get around to letting it thru its paces over the weekend.....i think there will be lots of questions then...thanks recipio

Sean Farrell

I managed to get a look at the Scheppach this evening. Its the model with the swinging extraction mechanism...that is with one hood. Only thing is ...as the teacher from the school put it to me....there is no original fence for the planer table...so he gave me a fence from an old Scheppach mortiser from the school....i was doing my best to make it square up to the planer table, but i'll need to put a shim here or a few washers there to align it. A little worried about the planer table not extending out enough when i am using the thicknesser...i will have to check that one out...i noticed in photos of the scheppach 3200ci i researched online that the bolt at the front goes down further. I will check that tomorrow morning.I've got it hooked up to the shop vac for the time being..unfortunately it was too late to try it out as next door neighbour's kids are doin exams and its a bit late in the evening.

Sean Farrell

it was just a matter of taking the inserts for the planer fence off the side...it made the table fold further over. I've worked out now why nobody responds to my posts anymore.... its a case of 'Let the egiitt work it out for himself.....we're fed up answering his idiotic questions.' Point taken. Thanks

Sean Farrell

Just set up the wiring for the Scheppach there now. I got the adaptor for the 16 Amp to 13 amp plug , connected it the socket on the wall, and turned it on..... the cutters turned away ...and away it went.....for a total of 3 seconds. I checked that i had all my wiring done correctly....My hazy knowledge of electricity tells me that there was too much running in the circuit. I had a look at the wiring in the garage and it appears that I will need an electrician to add more circuits to accomnodate the running of the machine. Em...i dont think my landlord will like me doing that...so as an alternative i thought of using a generator ....anybody know of a generator that would run the Scheppach, I'm sure it would be a pretty powerful one to run that big thing?
Also...we were talking about saw blades earlier and what was best to achieve a good clean cut. The bosch came with a 24 tooth general purpose blade... I had a peruse thru the Bosch table saw manual and noticed it would accept a blade 2-3 mm wide...anything other would'nt do. So i guess I'll go for a blade that 40 teeth or so..that should reduce tearing on veneered sheets and laminates, and give a crisper cut.

BenAtar

That's a bummer that it only worked for three seconds. Looks like you are stymied. As you say, a generator will cost hundreds. Don't know for sure though. Thanks for sharing and I wish you 'problem resolution and success' with the TP.

Sean Farrell

Thanks for the consolation Ben...ther is an option thou..it might work in a fellow woodwork enthusiasts' garage who lives nearby.so we might work out something out between us....i won't let the poor thing lie in the corner totally ignored and alone.

recipio

Sean, one of the fuses in your plugs has probably blown. Just replace the fuse in the 13 amp plug and it should run. I've never had to put in special 16 amp circuits even when specified but you get the odd blown fuse.
There are dozens of blades for different applications. In practice its too much hassle to change a blade everytime you make a cut and most people put in a 'general purpose' a blade. I have a 'rip' blade as I tend to crosscut on my mitre saw.

Sean Farrell

I'm no electrician....but i think its something with the circuit capacity or fuse box/consumer unit. I put a new 13amp fuse in and the same thing happened..i had someone check my own wiring for the machine and all was ok. My female connector to this male one was wired up ok, as was the 13 amp plug...so when the plug was refused with a brand new 13amp fuse again, when when the machine was switched on...the rollers ran a few seconds, the lights above me flickered a sec. and that was that. The consumer has one isolation RCD switch and from my memory now only two circuits for lighting and sockets...i will check it out properly this evening. Itf it comes down to it i might be planing/ thicknessing in the dark!

recipio

I would have thought the ELCB would trip if it were a fault in the wiring. A job for an electrician ?