Table Saw

laugh

I'd like a single phase table saw I could use jigs like this on:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UQaEpTZG-o

So something with a solid top rather than a site type saw.

What would you recommend?

What are the SIP 10" saws like?

recipio

All those 'cross sled' jigs need two slots milled into the table top. This comes standard on American saws but not European. Here, manufacturers expect you to buy a sliding table with the saw.
I don't think you will find a slotted table on this side of the pond too easily but have a look at the Axminster saw TSCE which has the milled slots.
American saws do have a few advantages however. You can fit a dado blade ( as safe as any spinning blade ) use jigs like finger jointing jigs and there are numerous dedicated blades available, all with the American standard 5/8" bore.
If I were buying a cabinet saw for a workshop I would probably look for an American saw in 220 volt for sheer versalitity.
SIP saws are just one of many 'Pacific Rim' saws - personally I'd stay clear. Browse www.axminster.co.uk for a good range of what's available.

flush1

i have a sip 10" 3hp saw.there are double slots milled in the top of the cast iron table so you could make up a sled for it.i have a sliding carraige with it and also a mitre gauge so there is no need for a crosscut sled.the saw is fairly accurate.it cuts sheet material no problem.its grand for cutting hardwood up to 2" thick but labours cutting 3 inch stock.i picked up the saw second hand for the right money.you can get a 12" sip with a 4 hp motor. like recipio said if you can get your hands on an american cabinet saw like a grizzly or similar that would be the way to go.

recipio

What seems to be happening is that saws are produced in the 'Far East' mainly for the US market. However they retain the American look and are modified for the European market. Ten years ago a lot of European saws were aluminium topped and most workshops ended up with a Scheppach or similar. I wanted a dado facility so imported a DeWalt 740 and never regretted it. Pity about the Dado head legislation as it is one useful tool

laugh

I guess this is the saw you have flush1: http://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/10-professional-cast-iron-table-saw/7112626?offset=19

If I could get one of those second hand at the right price I'd probably go for it.

woodturner

recipio wrote: »

What seems to be happening is that saws are produced in the 'Far East' mainly for the US market. However they retain the American look and are modified for the European market. Ten years ago a lot of European saws were aluminium topped and most workshops ended up with a Scheppach or similar. I wanted a dado facility so imported a DeWalt 740 and never regretted it. Pity about the Dado head legislation as it is one useful tool

Do you use the dado cutters much? I eventually got the 5/8" arbor for my saw and am just waiting for the arbor nut to arrive.

flush1

yea thats the exact saw i have,but i have the sliding carraige on mine.i tried to put up a photo but am unable to as i havent enough posts

woodturner

http://woodfordwm.co.uk/

This is the saw I had been thinking of when the thread was initially posted. They are not cheap Chinese saws and I believe they can use a 30mm bore dado cutter set.

recipio

woodturner wrote: »

Do you use the dado cutters much? I eventually got the 5/8" arbor for my saw and am just waiting for the arbor nut to arrive.

Did you convert a 30 mm arbor to 5/8" ?
Yes, anytime I want to mill a groove or rebate I tend to use the dado set.
I gives a very clean cut with dead square bottoms using a Freud set.
Because it is registered against the fence it is very accurate for multiple cuts.

woodturner

recipio wrote: »

Did you convert a 30 mm arbor to 5/8" ?
Yes, anytime I want to mill a groove or rebate I tend to use the dado set.
I gives a very clean cut with dead square bottoms using a Freud set.
Because it is registered against the fence it is very accurate for multiple cuts.

Haven't done it yet. Waiting for the nut and I have to borrow a bearing puller to remove the 30mm one.

recipio

woodturner wrote: »

http://woodfordwm.co.uk/

This is the saw I had been thinking of when the thread was initially posted. They are not cheap Chinese saws and I believe they can use a 30mm bore dado cutter set.

They say the Xcalibre range is made in Taiwan. Its another of those 'American looking saws ' which are coming on the market. Interestingly, they offer a dado spindle as an extra for £30. That's fine but all dado heads have the 5/8" bore. I know some companies like Freud will offer to bore out the blades but its a bit of hassle. Unfortunately that link goes back to 2005 as well so things have no doubt changed since then. I'm a fan of the 'do it once and do it right' principle. If you opt for a compromise saw you will be back in the market in another five years and find that prices are up another 50 %. Personally I would find a saw that will last a lifetime and save up for it.

flush1

its a noble looking machine alright

..Brian..

recipio wrote: »

They say the Xcalibre range is made in Taiwan. Its another of those 'American looking saws ' which are coming on the market. Interestingly, they offer a dado spindle as an extra for £30. That's fine but all dado heads have the 5/8" bore. I know some companies like Freud will offer to bore out the blades but its a bit of hassle. Unfortunately that link goes back to 2005 as well so things have no doubt changed since then.

Here's their new website.

http://woodfordtooling.com/

And this appears to be their entry level saw now. £1,250.00 (1733.23 Euro!!)

http://woodfordtooling.com/accessories/saw-blades/saw-hw110lge-30.html

flush1

and with the sliding carraige it would be well over 2 grand.....you would pick up a clean second hand ex college sedgewick or startrite or multico table saw for 7 or 8 hundred.these are good cast iron saws that were built to last.

recipio

flush1 wrote: »

and with the sliding carraige it would be well over 2 grand.....you would pick up a clean second hand ex college sedgewick or startrite or multico table saw for 7 or 8 hundred.these are good cast iron saws that were built to last.

I have a principle that I never buy machinery that I can't move myself. Its been sackcars/trollycars so far but when I need to move next time it will be a pallet lifter. Just something to remember with old machinery

flush1

you are dead right,a pallet lifter is a great job and it will spare your back.

smoking_kills

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161194203261?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is the saw i have. Got mine second hand on done deal. But a great saw, and can tale a 5/8 dado blade and is very accurate, though the fence is not great.

flush1

it looks to be the same fence thats on the sip table saw,if its anything like its not self squaring,which is a pain.

recipio

The most important thing when buying a saw is that it be belt driven from the motor to a trunion. The trunion will have sealed bearings for life.
Cheaper saws put the blade directly on the motor spindle which is relying on a set of bearings inside the motor. Of course after a few years they are worn and the blade wobbles -watch it on startup. Just something to be aware of.