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Return of the Kook!

  • #1
    Registered Users Posts: 176 ✭✭ leblanc


    Well,

    I've been surfing for a few years. I was getting better and moving into bigger waves and better turns etc. For the last couple of months its all falling apart - cant get into the right spot (which was something I got good at almost immediately), my pop up is screwed and when I'm up my balance is off. This happened to anyone else? When I've been thinking about it I suppose I have a lot of my mind of late - but being in the ocean used to be my release, get out, catch a few and forgot it all. Now I'm coming in f**king fuming. Was out for two hours tonight, perfect conditions and same thing... like I'm back in kooksville again. Advice if you have any please?
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  • One thing I always say: Surfing is not like riding a bike. Some people say it is but it's BS. You forget things and you loose the feeling for the waves. I can even feel a difference if I don't surf for a week or two.
    As a remedy to your frustration I'd say ride a bigger board. You'll catch more waves and have more fun.




  • leblanc wrote: »
    Well,

    I've been surfing for a few years. I was getting better and moving into bigger waves and better turns etc. For the last couple of months its all falling apart - cant get into the right spot (which was something I got good at almost immediately), my pop up is screwed and when I'm up my balance is off. This happened to anyone else? When I've been thinking about it I suppose I have a lot of my mind of late - but being in the ocean used to be my release, get out, catch a few and forgot it all. Now I'm coming in f**king fuming. Was out for two hours tonight, perfect conditions and same thing... like I'm back in kooksville again. Advice if you have any please?

    I'm in a slightly different situation to you in that I'm still very much a kook and learning the ropes. However I can relate to the frustrating days of coming in after a few hours feeling like I've accomplished nothing. Some days go great and it feels like everything is coming together, then the next it all unravels again.

    The only thing I can say is try relax, and don't be overly hard on yourself when it doesn't go to plan. Being in the water and taking it all in is enough to get the endorphins flowing. Focus on what isn't going well for you that day. If you feel like you're getting out of position in the lineup, paddle around and figure out where the spot to be is. Try and catch as many waves as possible. If you're struggling getting on to the wave then work on your position, paddle hard, arch your back and go for it. If you fall during/after your popup - no harm done. Dust yourself off after the wipeout, think about what went wrong and try again.

    Anyway, you probably know all this - but just try and enjoy your free time in the water. Hopefully you'll feel it starting to click again soon




  • leblanc wrote: »
    Well,

    I've been surfing for a few years. I was getting better and moving into bigger waves and better turns etc. For the last couple of months its all falling apart - cant get into the right spot (which was something I got good at almost immediately), my pop up is screwed and when I'm up my balance is off. This happened to anyone else? When I've been thinking about it I suppose I have a lot of my mind of late - but being in the ocean used to be my release, get out, catch a few and forgot it all. Now I'm coming in f**king fuming. Was out for two hours tonight, perfect conditions and same thing... like I'm back in kooksville again. Advice if you have any please?

    Wow sounds exactly like my own position.

    I didn't even bother going out over the past 2 weeks even though conditions were near perfect for me.

    My plan is to do some land training, popups on the floor, and get a good whole weekend lesson, I'm booked in for a weekend course the week after next.

    I'll PM you to find out where you are.




  • n1st wrote: »
    Wow sounds exactly like my own position.

    I didn't even bother going out over the past 2 weeks even though conditions were near perfect for me.

    My plan is to do some land training, popups on the floor, and get a good whole weekend lesson, I'm booked in for a weekend course the week after next.

    I'll PM you to find out where you are.

    I don't agree with this approach. When conditions are perfect that is the best time to improve. When you have a nice clean wave its a lot easier to get a decent ride compared to an onshore mess. Even if fitness and confidence is low catching one good wave will give you a huge lift.

    Land training is good but its no substitute for real thing imo.


    As for OP, i got some great advise recently from a surf shop owner when looking at boards. I was looking to move down in size but after talking to him now im probably going to move up in size to a performance longboard. He pointed out that i currently only go surfing every other weekend so would find it very hard at my age to move to the smaller board and find it consistently enjoyable. My plan was to get better and better and move to a short board eventually but when not surfing often enough this can be very difficult. I surf because i really enjoy it, its a release as you say and its some exercise too. I'm never going to be entering the world tour or any competitions so i need to maximize the enjoyment i get out of each session and trying get to terms with smaller boards will be frustrating. In your case if you are getting frustrated on your current board and not improving then i would do some research on long boards.




  • blainj2 wrote: »
    I don't agree with this approach. When conditions are perfect that is the best time to improve. When you have a nice clean wave its a lot easier to get a decent ride compared to an onshore mess. Even if fitness and confidence is low catching one good wave will give you a huge lift.

    Land training is good but its no substitute for real thing imo.


    As for OP, i got some great advise recently from a surf shop owner when looking at boards. I was looking to move down in size but after talking to him now im probably going to move up in size to a performance longboard. He pointed out that i currently only go surfing every other weekend so would find it very hard at my age to move to the smaller board and find it consistently enjoyable. My plan was to get better and better and move to a short board eventually but when not surfing often enough this can be very difficult. I surf because i really enjoy it, its a release as you say and its some exercise too. I'm never going to be entering the world tour or any competitions so i need to maximize the enjoyment i get out of each session and trying get to terms with smaller boards will be frustrating. In your case if you are getting frustrated on your current board and not improving then i would do some research on long boards.

    Agreed nothing like real surf and no harm getting a bigger board.
    Problem with real surf when your surfing poorly is it demoralizes, especially if you have to spend hours trying to get the surf spot.
    IMO trying to get the basics right at home can only help.


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  • Thanks All

    Was out on Saturday & Sunday - I'm a stubborn SOB you see! Saturday was tripe but caught one, just one good wave on Sunday. Got me out of the funk a wee bit to see some glassy face in front of me. Then wiped out and my leash cut through my board! Oh well!

    TBH I think it is my state of mind of late as have been very distracted and bringing that sh*te out on the water with me as opposed to just letting go and surfing, as one instructor very wisely advised me, like ya just don't care if you make the wave or not.




  • ask another surfer to watch you and point out what they think is going wrong.
    usually seeing someone fall in to the water you can tell what needs to change.

    it could be stance , balance , position or anything really.

    just don't forget to give them biscuits/beer afterwards.

    If that doesn't help then it's time to shell out on a lesson, which is money well spent in my opinion. but of course I'd say that.

    hope this helps,
    Fionn




  • leblanc wrote: »
    Thanks All

    (...)Then wiped out and my leash cut through my board!(...)

    That shouldn't happen if the leash is properly attached to the board.
    Only when the string that is attached to the loop in the board is too long it can cut through the board. That's why it's important to attach the leash so that the rail saver is in contact with the rail and not the string.
    Check here:
    http://www.comparesurfboards.com/blog/attach-leash-right-way


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