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Shear grab problems

  • 18-04-2015 5:27pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭


    I detached the shear grab from the loader today so as to do a few cleaning jobs with the bucket.
    When I reattached the shear grab and hydraulics, it wouldn't open or close. I can't imagine it being an electrical problem and I have the connections secure.
    Any idea lads?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    nqtfarmer wrote: »
    I detached the shear grab from the loader today so as to do a few cleaning jobs with the bucket.
    When I reattached the shear grab and hydraulics, it wouldn't open or close. I can't imagine it being an electrical problem and I have the connections secure.
    Any idea lads?

    Check the connections for blockages, might have got some crap in there when you were cleaning. Push the nipples on the connections to blow out any dirt but watch the pressure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 968 ✭✭✭Count Mondego


    yellow50HX wrote: »
    Check the connections for blockages, might have got some crap in there when you were cleaning. Push the nipples on the connections to blow out any dirt but watch the pressure.

    Check the joystick, little cable inside for the button always breaks off and needs to be resoldered in my one, Rossmore. Unrelated to what you were doing but still a possibility.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,954 ✭✭✭C0N0R


    Check the joystick, little cable inside for the button always breaks off and needs to be resoldered in my one, Rossmore. Unrelated to what you were doing but still a possibility.

    Glad to hear this happens someone else, complete pain in the hole,have got handy at this stage of working the switch while holding the wire on when it isn't convenient to solder!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 435 ✭✭FeelTheBern


    Bought a second hand McHale shear grab as part of deal for tractor last year. Only started using it few weeks ago. Have given the blades a good rub with hand file. Wouldn't be an expert but if I run a bit of baling twine across them between my two hands will cut it without any effort. Blades look fairly ok on outside but bit rusty on inside. Bottom tines are worn back a bit from shear face - 3 to 4 inches probably.

    Anyway grab is cutting through top half of bite, but then the blade stops going down and the whole grab is coming upwards to meet them - so bottom tines end up moving upwards.

    Don't know what's causing this. Thought might be due to blades not being sharp enough but think fairly ok now. Was wondering if maybe bottom tines gone too short? Could it be do anything to do with hydraulics? It's a MF 390.

    Presume not good for the grab anyway (in addition to leaving rough face).? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    Bought a second hand McHale shear grab as part of deal for tractor last year. Only started using it few weeks ago. Have given the blades a good rub with hand file. Wouldn't be an expert but if I run a bit of baling twine across them between my two hands will cut it without any effort. Blades look fairly ok on outside but bit rusty on inside. Bottom tines are worn back a bit from shear face - 3 to 4 inches probably.

    Anyway grab is cutting through top half of bite, but then the blade stops going down and the whole grab is coming upwards to meet them - so bottom tines end up moving upwards.

    Don't know what's causing this. Thought might be due to blades not being sharp enough but think fairly ok now. Was wondering if maybe bottom tines gone too short? Could it be do anything to do with hydraulics? It's a MF 390.

    Presume not good for the grab anyway (in addition to leaving rough face).? Thanks

    Replace tines and you'll be away.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭Who2


    Bought a second hand McHale shear grab as part of deal for tractor last year. Only started using it few weeks ago. Have given the blades a good rub with hand file. Wouldn't be an expert but if I run a bit of baling twine across them between my two hands will cut it without any effort. Blades look fairly ok on outside but bit rusty on inside. Bottom tines are worn back a bit from shear face - 3 to 4 inches probably.

    Anyway grab is cutting through top half of bite, but then the blade stops going down and the whole grab is coming upwards to meet them - so bottom tines end up moving upwards.

    Don't know what's causing this. Thought might be due to blades not being sharp enough but think fairly ok now. Was wondering if maybe bottom tines gone too short? Could it be do anything to do with hydraulics? It's a MF 390.

    Presume not good for the grab anyway (in addition to leaving rough face).? Thanks

    Try angling the tines downwards by about 3-4" as you back in. It helps a lot but it sounds like you need new tines.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    The outside tines are straight on each side. The rest are cranked. The outside ones will not wear as they are not rubbing off concrete. They are your guide.

    3" to 4" is unbelievable wear. What will start happening next is the cranked tines will start snapping like tooth picks or you'll burst ram brackets.

    Christmas is coming so don't delay. Ring your local fitter/ repairs lad and book him. Get all new cranked tines. Fill passageway to hilt with silage and drop over grab. It shouldn't take him long to replace them.

    It'll cost a few hundred but you'll end up with a fine grab. Keep going as you are and you'll have a ball of scrap.


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