Which wood for a table top

Steve_hooo

I need some advice to build a table top for the kitchen: I still have to work out the final dimensions but 2 of the characteristics I’m looking for are:
- plank top
- thickness 60+mm

Considering also that this would be my 1st project I’d like to keep the cost down in case of failure and that the max length I can put in my car is 2.40 mt.

So which one would you choose?

1)
http://www.brooksgroup.ie/75x100mm-whitewood-planed-l-mtr.html

2)
http://www.mcmahons.ie/catalog/product/view/id/28441/s/150-x-75mm-white-deal-pao-silkwood/category/2982/


or do you have andy other suggestion?

Jimmy_M

If you plan it well you wont fail...
Also - would you not go for red deal at least?

recipio

Lots to consider. A table with a 60 mm top will be very heavy.You will need a set of sash clamps to glue them together and if they are not aligned with (say) biscuit joints, they will slide all over the place. 60 mm is just out of reach of most powersaws and router bits.What you are proposing is really closer to a workbench.
If you reduced the thickness to about 30mm you could build a stronger table using conventional legs and rails - cheaper too.

Steve_hooo

Probably a workbench disguised as kitchen table is what I'm after.
Still considering read deal but I've been quoted 25 € for a rough plank 150x75 mm 2.40 m length
I'll use dowels to glue them together and castor wheels for "portability".

Calahonda52

as noted already 60mm will be an animal weight.
I have an old vocational school woodworking bench and its only 40mm.
Normal Doweling will be tricky to get right: can you borrow a biscuit jointer or do you know someone with a Festool Domino jointer
Also for the castors: most of them, even the ones that lock both the wheel and the rotation, have a little bit of play in them when locked and I found it very irritating so I got rid of them

recipio

Steve_hooo wrote: »

Probably a workbench disguised as kitchen table is what I'm after.
Still considering read deal but I've been quoted 25 € for a rough plank 150x75 mm 2.40 m length
I'll use dowels to glue them together and castor wheels for "portability".

It can be done and its a 'look' ( The Aussies love to make chunky furniture out of railway sleepers )
You will probably find Southern Yellow Pine in 75mm but its a bit bland. Douglas Fir is lovely if you can find it.
A hardwood would age a bit better - without the hundreds of dents and knocks that a softwood would show.
Its vital to join the boards so the surfaces are as closely aligned as possible, otherwise you are into hours of planing and sanding to get the top level.
Joining the legs to the top is another challenge, assuming you are not going to use any stretcher rails. My favourite is to turn a 30mm dowel on the leg and use a screwbox kit to cut a thread. Its incredibly strong when the leg is screwed to the top.

peter bermingham

Here is a good way to flatten a table top or work bench https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0&feature=player_detailpage

Steve_hooo

Calahonda52 wrote: »

can you borrow a biscuit jointer or do you know someone with a Festool Domino jointer

I looked a the price online, I wouldn’t feel comfortable to borrow one if I knew someone

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Also for the castors: most of them, even the ones that lock both the wheel and the rotation, have a little bit of play in them when locked and I found it very irritating so I got rid of them

This is something I'll keep on mind, thanks.

Steve_hooo

recipio wrote: »

It can be done and its a 'look' ( The Aussies love to make chunky furniture out of railway sleepers )
You will probably find Southern Yellow Pine in 75mm but its a bit bland. Douglas Fir is lovely if you can find it.
A hardwood would age a bit better - without the hundreds of dents and knocks that a softwood would show.

I've visited two builder merchants last Saturday, and I don't think they are organised to cater for a novice asking pricing and availability of woods in detail. One of them should be able to source a rough red deal for me, if not I may go with a white deal as it is cheap and build confidence and skills.

recipio wrote: »

Its vital to join the boards so the surfaces are as closely aligned as possible, otherwise you are into hours of planing and sanding to get the top level.

Pretty sure planing and sanding will be huge on me

recipio wrote: »

Joining the legs to the top is another challenge, assuming you are not going to use any stretcher rails. My favourite is to turn a 30mm dowel on the leg and use a screwbox kit to cut a thread. Its incredibly strong when the leg is screwed to the top.

Thinking of mortise and tendon between the top and legs (not sure of the correct term but something similar to this http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Mortise-and-Tenon-Joints-7613.aspx)

peter bermingham

What about solid kitchen worktop you can get it 900mmx3600mmx40mm in oak beech walnut. Your heart is going to be broke joining all them boards if you don't have the right machinery. If you do go down the road of joining pine join 4 or 5 at a time and then join all them sections together.

Steve_hooo

peter bermingham wrote: »

What about solid kitchen worktop you can get it 900mmx3600mmx40mm in oak beech walnut.

I've considered this few years ago and if I remember well it was quite expensive.

peter bermingham wrote: »

Your heart is going to be broke joining all them boards if you don't have the right machinery.

Sure it won't be easy, I've a limited set of tools and "skills" available, but it's a challenge I'd like to take.

recipio

Have you a planer/thicknesser at least to get to prepare the wood properly ?
I think the biggest mistake beginners make is to wade into projects without the correct tools to finish them - inevitably they give up when they hit a wall.
If you don't have a router its really worth buying even a cheap one. A 6mm bearing slot cutter can be run along the top of the board on both sides ( which will keep it parallel with any slight curvature ) and a 6mm x 30mm plywood tongue glued in the slot at assembly to keep the boards level with each other.
for a 6 ft table I'm guessing you will need about 6 sash clamps.
A final word on buying timber. We haven't really converted to metric yet so everybody will quote you a price per cubic foot. Work out your dimensions in cubic ft and multiply by the cost + add 10% for loss. Don't forget to bring a calculator with you for the odd surprise. !

YouThere

Just a thought: Have a look at the pine lamwood 8x4 panels in the builder's providers. Double up the edges with some offcut and then router all edges to your desired profile.

recipio

YouThere wrote: »

Just a thought: Have a look at the pine lamwood 8x4 panels in the builder's providers. Double up the edges with some offcut and then router all edges to your desired profile.

For the OP there is another solution. Build a torsion box and cover it with whatever material you like. Its nothing but a flat slab made with thin slats with half housing joints glued together - a grid of slats. Generally you glue ply on all surfaces but I imagine you would avoid wood movement by using thin lamwood ?
I have made desktops with plain flush doors veneered on all surfaces. A flush door is nothing more than a torsion box made from ply and cardboard.