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did anyone ever make a frame for a land roller

  • 04-04-2015 10:45pm
    #1
    f140
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭


    I have an 8ft roller and the frame is rotting bad now. need to get it replaced. was half thinking of taking on the job myself over the summer.


    its an 8ft with 36 inch drum. did anyone make a frame before. can the timber bearings be bought specially or are they something you need to make up yourself.


Comments

  • #2
    djmc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    I repaired my one last year cut off drawbar and sides and got new steel for front and back and welded back together.
    Is it all rotten or can you reuse or patch up some parts.


  • #3
    f140
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    djmc wrote: »
    I repaired my one last year cut off drawbar and sides and got new steel for front and back and welded back together.
    Is it all rotten or can you reuse or patch up some parts.

    id do it all it I was attacking it at all. any advice after doing yours.


  • #4
    Mad4simmental
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Mad4simmental


    I got the timber bearings for a Fleming before. Got the local lad to weld the new frame but I'm ****e at welding.


  • #5
    djmc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    f140 wrote: »
    id do it all it I was attacking it at all. any advice after doing yours.

    Not really just take your time and weld it right before moving it a mig welder would be better and I used 5 gallon drums to hold up the steal while welding as they were just the right height.


  • #6
    f140
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    djmc wrote: »
    Not really just take your time and weld it right before moving it a mig welder would be better and I used 5 gallon drums to hold up the steal while welding as they were just the right height.

    what types of metal did you use for the different parts. any pic? thanks for all so far


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  • #7
    Zr105
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    No timber on the one here, instead there's a lump of heavy wall pipe welded to a flat plate and the end capped off. Then a grease nipple in the wall of the pipe, sits snug on the shaft and tight to the end of the drum(well there's a big washer or 2.
    It's then just bolted tot the frame with 4 bolts through the flat plate.
    The likelihood is that the axle will wear through/break in the centre of the 2 drums long before it ever wears out either the caps or the ends of the axle


  • #8
    satstheway
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    100mm box for front back and drawbar.
    sides 8 or 10mm plate 75mm wide on top 200mm down side welded split across top like angle and drilled and tapped for nipple.

    Bearings I got mine from local wood merchant can't rem what wood he said they were.
    cut in half and screwed to faceplate on my lathe and made hole in them to fit shaft." You could cut in half clamp back together and drill with correct size holesaw" then 2 holes for bolting up to 75mm top rail and a 12mm hole to take grease down. Metal plate at bottom and put together simple.
    Weld something on to protect nipple .
    simple


  • #9
    Miname
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭Miname


    Two lumps of oak is the right job for the bearings, I've used teak a few times for lads. A local lad made a roller and used c channel. Real heavy section and have to say it worked a treat.


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