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air tight/extra insulation.

  • 28-03-2015 6:08pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 616 ✭✭✭


    Following on from another thread I made a few weeks ago about external insulation on my dormer bungalow.

    This is a 2000sq ft dormer built in boom years by me and family members and even thou it was built to 2004 regs, it seriously needs some upgrading. All I have for insulation is aeroboard under floor and cavity. Above ceiling in dormer void abd ceiling in dormer is fiberglass though dormer slope has 100mm xtratherm. I have an open fireplace and large windows at front and back with 2 sliding doors on each corner of the kitchen/dining which is open planned. House is south facing.

    Was my dream house/site until started to fill the oil tank once to often throughout the year. Had plans to sell the house and build another but these new SR9 regs put a stop to that so I'm wanting to upgrade my insulation and try best to air seal the house. Will also be putting in a range stove in kitchen or back boiler stove fire in living room.

    So basicly I'm wanting to know my best approach on how to get my house air tight. After reading up in external insulation, I think this will be better than upgrading internal insulation. I know this really is a job for a Ber assessor but just looking a few ideas for now.

    Another thing, i have a large external chimney breast with lead flashing meeting the external course of block. Will I also have to add the insulation on the chimney and will it need anything extra so rain won't get behind the insulation where the flashing is.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭tedimc


    Have a look at Walltite for the cavity, it can be pumped into partial filled cavities. Should definitely help your air-tightness, but be careful around windows and doors as it could get messy. It fires out through any weak plaster points or gaps.

    I got a quote for €1000 odd for bead - Walltite about 3 times the price.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 616 ✭✭✭duckcfc


    tedimc wrote: »
    Have a look at Walltite for the cavity, it can be pumped into partial filled cavities. Should definitely help your air-tightness, but be careful around windows and doors as it could get messy. It fires out through any weak plaster points or gaps.

    I got a quote for €1000 odd for bead - Walltite about 3 times the price.

    would prefare to cover th eexternal in insulation that the pumped stuff. heard the pumped stuff isnt that great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭tedimc


    duckcfc wrote: »
    would prefare to cover th eexternal in insulation that the pumped stuff. heard the pumped stuff isnt that great

    Fully agree with that duckcfc - but just to put it in perspective, I got quotes of 36-40k for external insulation on my house. I would still need to pump the cavity on top of this. Regular bead would set me back ~1k. Walltite is a better product IMO than regular bead and will cost me around 3k or a little more (75mm cavity). Its effectively the same material as the PIR boards.

    I'm also planning on drylining the internal walls - approx. 95M sq of surface area. That would cost approx. 2k in Kingspan insulated plaster boards or similar. Granted, I'll have to pay a plasterer, etc. - but I'm getting an A3 BER for this and that's not bad for a retrofit. Skirting, painting, electrics, plumbing would have to be done anyway.

    As well as the costs - I wasn't getting any promises over the longevity of the external insulation. I'm fully on board with the idea that its better in principal, but I've to do a lot of work inside anyway and it is working out a lot cheaper for me.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 616 ✭✭✭duckcfc


    40k for external insulation, fcuk that ill just buy a few extra woolie jumpers. you must have a castle for a house


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