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Spider in Sensor

  • 23-03-2015 10:40am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭


    We have had a couple of false alarms over the past week from the same zone. 2 in one night and then another the next night.

    I looked into the sensor I thought it might be (because when checking what windows were in the specific zone causing the alarm, after closing this one I got a brief "open zone" message) and discovered a small spider, still alive with a bit of webbing around.

    Could the spider have been causing the alarm? Would a sensor be that sensitive that a spider inside could trip it?

    Also before opening the sensor I went through (it's a CS250 system) "Inputs->Zones->#num->Inhibit Zone->For Tamper" in the engineer menu.

    After I put the lid of the sensor back on, do I now need to do a "Eng Tamp Reset->Reset" or does just exiting out of all the menus bring me back to 0 tamper inhibits?

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭zzap64


    Oh well, not the spider it seems. I set the alarm there and it went off after 10 minutes :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 855 ✭✭✭Evolution1


    Its probably a faulty sensor. Just swap it out for a new one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭zzap64


    Probably is, there is a bit of a mess of wires in there with some tape as well so I'm not 100% confident of swapping in a new one and having it all the same. Might admit defeat and call in the installer.

    Would be easier if not an intermittent fault as well. :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    zzap64 wrote: »
    Probably is, there is a bit of a mess of wires in there with some tape as well so I'm not 100% confident of swapping in a new one and having it all the same. Might admit defeat and call in the installer.

    Would be easier if not an intermittent fault as well. :(

    The CS250 has re-settable fuses so you cant as such blow much changing the PIR. If the cables are tapped then check for loose connections also before changing.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    zzap64 wrote: »
    Probably is, there is a bit of a mess of wires in there with some tape as well so I'm not 100% confident of swapping in a new one and having it all the same.(

    Sometimes these junctions are not a daunting as they may seem, can you post a picture and we'll see if we can help you through it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭zzap64


    I've attached a couple of photos I took earlier. Not too sure if they'll automatically show up in the message.

    It may be this sensor, although it could be any of the other 3 on this zone. I just think it might be this one since when I was opening and closing windows to double check what windows were on the faulty zone, the zone still showed open for a short time after closing this window. Could have just been a co-incidence of course :)

    There is also a wire going to a contact for the lower down larger window.

    p.s. Both photos are of same sensor.

    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    It looks OK. Where are the tape joins?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    zzap64 wrote: »
    I've attached a couple of photos I took earlier. Not too sure if they'll automatically show up in the message.

    It may be this sensor, although it could be any of the other 3 on this zone. I just think it might be this one since when I was opening and closing windows to double check what windows were on the faulty zone, the zone still showed open for a short time after closing this window. Could have just been a co-incidence of course :)

    There is also a wire going to a contact for the lower down larger window.

    p.s. Both photos are of same sensor.

    Thanks.

    There is no way of knowing if the sensor is ok from looking at it.
    You would need any on the zone tested with a multimeter.

    Remove the resistor from the last device on the zone and connect the wires to the last device. 
    Set the meter to 200 Ohms and take a note of the reading.
    Each device you have on that zone you will need to tap 10-20 times plus open and close each contact one by one. If you do connect the meter in series with the last device then make sure you disconnect the zone in the control panel plus any resistors on the loop and join the cable together there.
    After each one, check if the reading has changed. 
    If it does not return to in or around the same value remove that device, join the cables from the alarm circuit together and move on to the next device.
    After this you should have a circuit with a lower resistance value that remains the same after you tap or open any device.
    Replace any faulty devices plus replace the EOL resistor and rewire the zone back into the panel.


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