Honda C90 timing

Flood

Does any one have a drawing of how to mark up the timing weight back plate holder that slides onto the camshaft?
There is a blob of weld and a slot in the backing plate but it can rotate a few degrees so im not sure what to do. I see a mark on it and there is a mark on the back cover so im sure these are relevant to timing it.

Roadcraft

Flood wrote: »

Does any one have a drawing of how to mark up the timing weight back plate holder that slides onto the camshaft?
There is a blob of weld and a slot in the backing plate but it can rotate a few degrees so im not sure what to do. I see a mark on it and there is a mark on the back cover so im sure these are relevant to timing it.

The base plate is movable to advance or retard the ignition timing. The marks are only a guide.

Before setting the ignition timing set the contact points gap (0.012" - 0.016") 0.3 - 0.4mm.

Remove the generator cover & rotate the engine counterclockwise until the contact points gap is at its maximun, set the points gap.

Then to set the ignition timing:
Rotate the the generator rotor counterclockwise until the 'F' mark is lined up with the crankcase mark. When the marks line up the contact points should be just begin to open. If not adjust the base plate until the points just begin to open.

If you want to be more accurate you can use a strobe timing light to check & set the timing with the idle speed set at 1200rpm.

Hope this helps.

Flood

Thanks for the reply and info, the plate im referring to is this,


It slides onto the cam shaft and has a notch in it that matches up to a weld blob on the cam shaft, an m6 bolt then tightens it up. As i said in op this piece has some degree of movement in its intended position as the blob of weld is small and the notch is bigger.

Roadcraft

Flood wrote: »

Thanks for the reply and info, the plate im referring to is this,


It slides onto the cam shaft and has a notch in it that matches up to a weld blob on the cam shaft, an m6 bolt then tightens it up. As i said in op this piece has some degree of movement in its intended position as the blob of weld is small and the notch is bigger.

That is the spark advancer, put the notch over the weld blob & tighten it up.

Flood

Roadcraft wrote: »

That is the spark advancer, put the notch over the weld blob & tighten it up.

But the problem is it can rotate up to 30 degree, is their any mark to put it exact or does it not matter?

Roadcraft

Flood wrote: »

But the problem is it can rotate up to 30 degree, is their any mark to put it exact or does it not matter?

Line up as above after that it will not matter, it will rotate to advance the spark.

Flood

Roadcraft wrote: »

Line up as above after that it will not matter, it will rotate to advance the spark.

I don't know what is wrong so, i have the point set correct and timing of spark but the bike is dead out, i have tried a carb off another bike and same thing.
It feels like a timing issue but cant be, any other ideas?

Roadcraft

Flood wrote: »

I don't know what is wrong so, i have the point set correct and timing of spark but the bike is dead out, i have tried a carb off another bike and same thing.
It feels like a timing issue but cant be, any other ideas?

Do you have good compression?

Flood

Roadcraft wrote: »

Do you have good compression?

Its good, have not put a compression tester on it but from experience it feels good. I made sure the timing chain is timed correct too and timing chain tensioner is good.