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Alternator for MF65

  • 18-03-2015 8:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 79 ✭✭


    Does anyone know which car alternator will fit a MF 65. Would I be right in saying its from a ford car ? I was told that a fitted alternator is better than the original dynamo. Help would be appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 422 ✭✭marlyman


    Stick with the dynamo. It's better for the battery. If you want an alternator your looking for a lucan lra100.
    Does anyone know which car alternator will fit a MF 65. Would I be right in saying its from a ford car ? I was told that a fitted alternator is better than the original dynamo. Help would be appreciated.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    marlyman wrote: »
    Stick with the dynamo. It's better for the battery.

    Is it because the dynamo produces less current or other reasons?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,633 ✭✭✭TheBody


    An alternator in a great job but you can't just swap them with a dynamo. There is some re wiring to be done first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    You'll also need to change the pulley. Some dynamos are hard to align properly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭dooroy


    Have fitted a few alternators in place of dynamos - and did the same on cars years ago .
    The alternator I use is what used to be known as a Lucas 17 ACR for example .
    You only need 2 wires coming from the alternator - a heavy gauge one to the battery (or battery lead on starter) and a light gauge wire to the warning light .

    If there is an auto electrician around your area he should be able to supply the alternator and suitable warning light .

    Lining up the pulleys can take time - you have to make sure the belt is running straight .

    Don't know where you live but the last one I did the owner got an alternator and bracket from a guy who repairs tractors (can get details if you want ).
    You remove the dynamo and its bracket and replace with supplied bracket , then fit alternator and pulleys should line up. Saves a lot of time .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 422 ✭✭marlyman


    It's because an alternator cuts in and out as charge falls and recharges. A dynamo is always trickling a small bit of charge even when the battery is full. It's better conditioning for the battery, I suppose you could say.
    Is it because the dynamo produces less current or other reasons?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭dooroy


    I had cars run with dynamos - and on changing to alternator it didn't have any bad effect on the battery .
    With the dynamo you also had a regulator ( hidden up under the dash usually in a tractor) and over time these go out of adjustment and I have often found that dynamo systems are just managing to put off the charge light but putting very little charge into the battery even when revved .
    If a tractor was started a few times with little running time in between then you could have a problem . People often then blame the battery - new battery doesn't solve the problem though . So then maybe turn to the starter ???
    All the time the dynamo (or regulator ) causing the problem .
    Fit new dynamo - still have problems , because the regulator is at fault .
    Also dynamos output depends on revs - and often tractors are not at a high enough rev to give good output .
    The alternator gives good output at low revs and any of those I converted the owners have been very happy with them .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 422 ✭✭marlyman


    Each to their own I suppose. I checked the dates of the batteries on all 6 tractors I have. The youngest is an 8 year old yuasa . The oldest is 12 Year old exIde. Exide used to make the best battery ever for a tractor. Pity.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 237 ✭✭Man of Aran


    dooroy wrote: »
    Have fitted a few alternators in place of dynamos - and did the same on cars years ago .
    The alternator I use is what used to be known as a Lucas 17 ACR for example .
    You only need 2 wires coming from the alternator - a heavy gauge one to the battery (or battery lead on starter) and a light gauge wire to the warning light .

    If there is an auto electrician around your area he should be able to supply the alternator and suitable warning light .

    Lining up the pulleys can take time - you have to make sure the belt is running straight .

    Don't know where you live but the last one I did the owner got an alternator and bracket from a guy who repairs tractors (can get details if you want ).
    You remove the dynamo and its bracket and replace with supplied bracket , then fit alternator and pulleys should line up. Saves a lot of time .

    Some of thise earlier Fergusons were Positive + earthing return on chassis AFAIK.
    Would be interested to know procedure you follow with retrofitting those Lucas ACR of more typical Negative earth design. Convert the alternator & diode packs to + earth to suit tractor or reconfigure the whole chassis to negative?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭dooroy


    Yes some early ones were positive earth and as you say the alternator was for a negative earth system.
    As far as I can remember I just swapped the battery leads - probably had to change terminals as the pos is usually bigger than the negative .
    I would have to check up on this to be sure thats all - but there were no changes to the alternator .


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