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Sub & finished floor with UFH

  • 15-03-2015 6:44pm
    #1
    paidioc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭


    Hi. We are doing a self build and have just poured the foundations. We are putting in UFH. We are thinking of putting in 6" concrete sub floor and then putting 150mm insulation and UFH pipes with 3" concrete finished floor.
    How long should be leave the sub floor to dry/cure before we go back and do the insulation, UFH pipes and finished floor?
    Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,823 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    paidioc wrote: »
    Hi. We are doing a self build and have just poured the foundations. We are putting in UFH. We are thinking of putting in 6" concrete sub floor and then putting 150mm insulation and UFH pipes with 3" concrete finished floor.
    How long should be leave the sub floor to dry/cure before we go back and do the insulation, UFH pipes and finished floor?
    Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

    You don't do the UFH etc until the rest of the building is up and plastered, so you've no need to worry if you're only at foundation level yet.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #3
    paidioc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭paidioc


    Hi galwaytt
    This is what I was thinking but I have been advised that if we're not using an easy screed but using 3" concrete for finished floor that it is ok to finish floors now. I still have concerns for the protection of the UFH heating pipes with blocks being laid on the floor and the acrows that will be in supporting the hollow core floor upstairs but friends who have recently finished building and our plumber say that it will be ok. What do you think?
    Thanks


  • #4
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,823 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    paidioc wrote: »
    Hi galwaytt
    This is what I was thinking but I have been advised that if we're not using an easy screed but using 3" concrete for finished floor that it is ok to finish floors now. I still have concerns for the protection of the UFH heating pipes with blocks being laid on the floor and the acrows that will be in supporting the hollow core floor upstairs but friends who have recently finished building and our plumber say that it will be ok. What do you think?
    Thanks

    Sorry, but there's now way in hell I'd do it now. It'll be exposed to weather, damage, wear & tear - not a notion in hell would I put in a finished floor in advance of a building being up.

    I also think the insulation/detailing is not ideal if put in at this stage of the work.

    OK, at this time of year frost won't be an issue, but I did work on house a few years ago where it was put in first, and it was pressure tested whilst floors were poured. Overnight the water in the UFH froze, and the entire thing had to be ripped out. Stomach churning tbh.

    I'd be questioning whoever is advising you on this.

    BTW, I've built 2 houses of my own, and have UFH in both, since 1997, so am not unfamiliar with it.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #5
    lownhard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 167 ✭✭lownhard


    galwaytt wrote: »
    Sorry, but there's now way in hell I'd do it now. It'll be exposed to weather, damage, wear & tear - not a notion in hell would I put in a finished floor in advance of a building being up.

    I also think the insulation/detailing is not ideal if put in at this stage of the work.

    OK, at this time of year frost won't be an issue, but I did work on house a few years ago where it was put in first, and it was pressure tested whilst floors were poured. Overnight the water in the UFH froze, and the entire thing had to be ripped out. Stomach churning tbh.

    I'd be questioning whoever is advising you on this.

    BTW, I've built 2 houses of my own, and have UFH in both, since 1997, so am not unfamiliar with it.

    Listen to this!

    What if radon barrier is down and it rains and the insulation is fecked in on top of the pooled water and then the screed poured..complete mess.

    Wait until at least the roof is on, but preferably house is sealed.


  • #6
    alan partridge aha
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,322 ✭✭✭alan partridge aha


    I put underfloor pipes down and poured finish floor before house was built. This was done in late September and plumber said he thought there was no need to pressure test. His main reason was the manifold would stick out like a sore thumb and would be stolen. However I insisted and we used air to pressure test with no issues. We moved in a year later.


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  • #7
    paidioc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭paidioc


    I think you've managed to convince me not to do finished floor now! Radon barrier and steel are in and we're waiting on good weather to pour 6" sub floor during the week. Once house is sealed and plastered we'll put in insulation and finished floor. Just wondering what screed you used when installing your own systems?


  • #8
    gooseygander
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 317 ✭✭gooseygander


    My finished floor was poured at the start also, without a hitch to date. Different strokes for different folks it seems. I suppose its easier to do at the start as power floating is much easier to do then, however all methods have pros and cons I suppose. Best of luck either way.


  • #9
    alan partridge aha
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,322 ✭✭✭alan partridge aha


    gooseygander wrote: »
    My finished floor was poured at the start also, without a hitch to date. Different strokes for different folks it seems. I suppose its easier to do at the start as power floating is much easier to do then, however all methods have pros and cons I suppose. Best of luck either way.

    Get good tradesmen and you won't damage your floor.


  • #10
    paidioc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭paidioc


    gooseygander wrote:
    My finished floor was poured at the start also, without a hitch to date. Different strokes for different folks it seems. I suppose its easier to do at the start as power floating is much easier to do then, however all methods have pros and cons I suppose. Best of luck either way.


    Thanks. What did you use for finished floor and what insulation did you put in?


  • #11
    gooseygander
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 317 ✭✭gooseygander


    paidioc wrote: »
    Thanks. What did you use for finished floor and what insulation did you put in?
    75mm screed on top of 150mm of insulation which was taped and covered with light gauge plastic to prevent concrete getting between the insulation to the sub floor thus preventing cold bridges. All then was powerfloated. I did have neat tradsmen and result now is floors are still as clean as the day they were installed. Currently house internal plastering is now complete and 2nd fix electrics underway.


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  • #12
    paidioc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭paidioc


    gooseygander wrote:
    75mm screed on top of 150mm of insulation which was taped and covered with light gauge plastic to prevent concrete getting between the insulation to the sub floor thus preventing cold bridges. All then was powerfloated. I did have neat tradsmen and result now is floors are still as clean as the day they were installed. Currently house internal plastering is now complete and 2nd fix electrics underway.


    That is what i was thinking of doing all along. How long did you leave your sub floor to dry out before you put down your insulation, UFH pipes and final concrete screed?


  • #13
    gooseygander
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 317 ✭✭gooseygander


    paidioc wrote: »
    That is what i was thinking of doing all along. How long did you leave your sub floor to dry out before you put down your insulation, UFH pipes and final concrete screed?
    to be honest I am not really sure, it was last summer in very hot dry weather I recall but I assume a couple of weeks, not sure that you even need to leave it that long to dry.


  • #14
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,823 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    alan partridge aha wrote: »
    Get good tradesmen and you won't damage your floor.

    ...that's fine, so long as you're standing there looking over their shoulder, in good weather.........if you're not there, who's to say what happens ??

    What was your perimeter detail, without walls in place ?

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #15
    alan partridge aha
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,322 ✭✭✭alan partridge aha


    galwaytt wrote: »
    ...that's fine, so long as you're standing there looking over their shoulder, in good weather.........if you're not there, who's to say what happens ??

    What was your perimeter detail, without walls in place ?

    You pay them properly and get good references and no worries. I did a self build and got the best men as I knew bad ones are a nightmare. Blocklayer was a clean tidy operator who unlike a lot of guys served his time.

    Forgot to say I had an architect on the job as well.

    Not sure what you mean by perimeter detail, internal walls are not sitting on floor but are from the foundations up, so they were there. 150mm floor insulation and 25 0r 30mm insulation around perimeter of house.


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