Wheel stuck

ComfortKid

Got a puncture last night in the back wheel. Took off the nuts, jacked up the car but the wheel wouldn't come off. I kicked and pulled it for nearly an hour and it didn't budge.Anyone any ideas? Can't really afford to get a tyre guy out

punisher5112

ComfortKid wrote: »

Got a puncture last night in the back wheel. Took off the nuts, jacked up the car but the wheel wouldn't come off. I kicked and pulled it for nearly an hour and it didn't budge.Anyone any ideas? Can't really afford to get a tyre guy out

Spray wd40 in around hub.

Make sure car jacked properly and smack with a sledge but use a piece of timbe if alloy to stop damage to it.

Put spare wheel under car so if pops off jack.

This happens in winter with grit from road.

mytime

It's after bonding with break pad dust dirt etc. Jack up the car and get an axel stand under it as well put 2 studs in hand tight. Then get a something like a sledge hammer and hit from the inside. Wheel should come off then. The car must be on a level surface and using jack and axel stand. Don't use a jack the on its own

If you have comprehensive insurance ring them and they'll come out and do it for you

ComfortKid

punisher5112 wrote:

Spray wd40 in around hub.

Spray it from the front or back of the wheel? And which are of the wheel do I flog with the hammer? It's only a steel wheel so not worried about bending it. Thanks

Damokc

Secure car. Lie on your back and alternate kicks to the tire at the 3 and 9 o clock positions.

punisher5112

ComfortKid wrote: »

Spray it from the front or back of the wheel? And which are of the wheel do I flog with the hammer? It's only a steel wheel so not worried about bending it. Thanks

in where the studs are at the back and centre part that's where it will be a bit rusty.

Hit all around the wheel to free it it should pop right of.

Had same problem on pajero studs were welded also took me an hour at side of road and I had no sledge kicking had to do.

greasepalm

that shows lack of servicing if wheels are not taken off regularly and hubs cleaned and copper grease added, sometimes having a 12v compressor to pump up tyre could get you to a local garage.be careful in not spraying discs and pads with spray.

i would put the 4 nuts back on and if its a rear wheel hit it at the 4 oclock position on left rear then rotate and hit it will get loser once enough movement remove loose wheel nuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3-ntyxIukY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2QzcJ4aoxk

ComfortKid

Ya I kicked it for ages but it was only on a cheap jack so had to go easy enough. Tis well welded on though. So I hit the outside of the rim near the tyre?

punisher5112

Put spare wheel under if it were to pop off jack.

greasepalm

many have those space savers,wont save anything,or worse no spare wheel .

CJhaughey

If you can't get it off on a jack, put the nuts back on and wind them in, then back out 1 turn.
Drive car in a circle the wheel should come free and once it does you will know by the clunk.
Stop and jack at this point.
Lots of cars fallen off jacks by trying to get wheels off by kicking and hitting.
If you have a big hammer and a bit of wood to stop wheel damage it will work as well.

ComfortKid

CJhaughey wrote:

If you can't get it off on a jack, put the nuts back on and wind them in, then back out 1 turn. Drive car in a circle the wheel should come free and once it does you will know by the clunk. Stop and jack at this point. Lots of cars fallen off jacks by trying to get wheels off by kicking and hitting. If you have a big hammer and a bit of wood to stop wheel damage it will work as well.

Can't drive it as the tyre is flat. Dont want to ruin it

Renegade Mechanic

CJhaughey wrote: »

If you can't get it off on a jack, put the nuts back on and wind them in, then back out 1 turn.
Drive car in a circle the wheel should come free and once it does you will know by the clunk.
Stop and jack at this point.
Lots of cars fallen off jacks by trying to get wheels off by kicking and hitting.
If you have a big hammer and a bit of wood to stop wheel damage it will work as well.

Yep. That's the only way to deal with the worst of them. Done it a few times myself, 1turn, 1st gear, round a circle, or just an "s" up the drive if you haven't space. Only thing to mind is that the centre of the wheel isn't bigger than the centre of the hub which it is in some cases where after market or seperate model wheels are fitted as the weight goes to them instead, which might bend/snap them.

Renegade Mechanic

ComfortKid wrote: »

Can't drive it as the tyre is flat. Dont want to ruin it

Ah

rex-x

I always use a 10 foot long 2x6 and give one good wallop from behind. Never fails

CJhaughey

Try loosening the nuts like I suggested and rocking the car sideways back and forth the weight of the car bearing against the rust weld will usually make it happen even on a flat tyre, might need a good few swings to make it happen.

ComfortKid

I got it anyway lads. Hit it 2 flogs with the back of a hatchet and it just fell off. Sound for the advice.

Special Circumstances

ComfortKid wrote: »

I got it anyway lads. Hit it 2 flogs with the back of a hatchet and it just fell off. Sound for the advice.

Don't forget a little smear of copper grease or something as suggested already. Prevent it happening again.

tossy

greasepalm wrote: »

that shows lack of servicing if wheels are not taken off regularly

It's nothing to do with lack of servicing,i had a puncture recently took the wheel off in tyre place with mallet applied copper grease to mounting surfaces and put wheel back on, i had reason to take the same wheel off just over 24 hours later and it was bonded again.

CJhaughey

Wirebrushing the hub to get it relatively free from rust helps a lot.
Doesn't have to back to bare metal but just get any orange dust off and any chunky bits especially, or the wheel nuts can come loose as the rust breaks down.

rex-x

Clearing the wheel mounting surface and the hub/disc is the best option, Copper grease is not the best idea at all though

Special Circumstances

rex-x wrote: »

Clearing the wheel mounting surface and the hub/disc is the best option, Copper grease is not the best idea at all though

Always just accepted the antiseize advice as "this is how it's done son" kinda thing. It's actually funny if you google it - people on other forums willing to fight to the death over whether you should antiseize or not!

rex-x

Special Circumstances wrote: »

Always just accepted the antiseize advice as "this is how it's done son" kinda thing. It's actually funny if you google it - people on other forums willing to fight to the death over whether you should antiseize or not!

Well the wheel is held on by friction between the wheel and the brake disc and the hub, this friction is caused by the wheel nuts clamping the wheel onto the hub. If you add anything between you reduce this friction and add a load to your wheelnuts they were never meant to handle

Special Circumstances

I'm lucky to have survived the time I used bacon grease instead of antiseize! ;-)
mmmm, bacon grease....

9935452

rex-x wrote: »

Well the wheel is held on by friction between the wheel and the brake disc and the hub, this friction is caused by the wheel nuts clamping the wheel onto the hub. If you add anything between you reduce this friction and add a load to your wheelnuts they were never meant to handle

The reason i would be slow to put grease on the hubs would be when/if the brake disc heats up it could melt the grease and send it onto the brake disc meaning no brakes

cletus

My understanding is that a) cooper grease is not a lubricant, it had anti seize properties, so it wouldn't have the same effect as putting, say, lithium grease on the hub, and b) it can operate in very high temperatures, do the chances of it "melting" are pretty much zero

snipey

back of a hatchet, we've come a long way.

George Dalton

Sometimes low tech is the best solution! We have a couple of pretty heavy duty lengths of timber in the workshop for this exact purpose :pac:

tossy

George Dalton wrote: »

Sometimes low tech is the best solution! We have a couple of pretty heavy duty lengths of timber in the workshop for this exact purpose :pac:

I thought that's what Doc was for ?

dr.fuzzenstein

tossy wrote: »

I thought that's what Doc was for ?

Huh?

rex-x

9935452 wrote: »

The reason i would be slow to put grease on the hubs would be when/if the brake disc heats up it could melt the grease and send it onto the brake disc meaning no brakes

That's the reason you would be slow but its not "the" reason to be slow, scientifically speaking

enumbers

doesnt matter what grease you put on the issue is the remaining corrosion expanding and locking the wheel on, only worth greasing after wheel and hub have been properly cleaned, Alloy wheels are the worst culprit as the alu corrosion expands in size much more than steel

ComfortKid

snipey wrote:

back of a hatchet, we've come a long way.

I don't usually carry a sledgehammer in the car with me. Tried beating it with the wheel brace but its too light. It did the job

dr.fuzzenstein

I've had wheels seize on me and I found the best approach is to lie down on your back and kick the wheel with you feet at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
I've had one wheel where I bate it with a hammer and nothing. Lied on my back and just kept kicking, you have to get a good left-right-left-right rhythm going. Never failed to get a wheel off. The hammer you're just going to damage it.

George Dalton

I had a fella in the other day to get a puncture mended. He said he had awful hassle getting the wheel off. Luckily he was at home at the time. He eventually succeeded by using a sledgehammer and a phonebook :pac:

nd

If it's one of the driven wheels and you have an open differential. You can jack it up, put it maybe in second gear(or a higher gear if need be) rev it up a little and slam on the brakes(with the wheelnuts off).

Avns1s

nd wrote: »

If it's one of the driven wheels and you have an open differential. You can jack it up, put it maybe in second gear(or a higher gear if need be) rev it up a little and slam on the brakes(with the wheelnuts off).

I doubt that'd make any difference. If it did work and the wheel came off, you'd be collecting it two streets away!

nd

I've used it on stuck wheels on my dads car a few times. It had the stud on the hub so the wheel didn't go anywhere! I suppose if the stud is not on the hub just loosen them(either way actually for safety).