will the timber take the weight of the sliding door

GERMAN ROCKS

have a shed like this. the one in the picture is a 3 bay. mine is two bay. Its a machinery shed. want to cover in the open side now and was thinking of making sliding door myself. its 32ft wide with a h iron in the middle at 16ft.

was thinking of having two sliding doors (2 16ft doors). it would mean that only one section could be opened at any one time which would be perfect anyway. the timber on the shed are 9x3s. would they take the weight of two sliding doors when one section would be open or would something stronger be needed.

they would be 12ft high by 16ft wide

http://www.dinkydisheds.com.au/websheds/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Open_Front_Shed__4e325a2e7a87e.jpg

Miname

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

have a shed like this. the one in the picture is a 3 bay. mine is two bay. Its a machinery shed. want to cover in the open side now and was thinking of making sliding door myself. its 32ft wide with a h iron in the middle at 16ft.

was thinking of having two sliding doors (2 16ft doors). it would mean that only one section could be opened at any one time which would be perfect anyway. the timber on the shed are 9x3s. would they take the weight of two sliding doors when one section would be open or would something stronger be needed.


http://www.dinkydisheds.com.au/websheds/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Open_Front_Shed__4e325a2e7a87e.jpg

They should take it no problem

sh1tstirrer

Won't one door have to slide outside the other door? The timber won't support the weight if both doors.

f140

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

Won't one door have to slide outside the other door? The timber won't support the weight if both doors.

.

the_blue_oval

Could you put a rail and wheels along the ground aswell so that there would be very little weight on the timber?

GERMAN ROCKS

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

Won't one door have to slide outside the other door? The timber won't support the weight if both doors.

that was my plan which would result in one door sliding past the other and in that case the timber would have to take the weight of both doors.

GERMAN ROCKS

the_blue_oval wrote: »

Could you put a rail and wheels along the ground aswell so that there would be very little weight on the timber?

yes I was going to put a track alright. didn't think of using a wheel actually to take the weight off.

the_blue_oval

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

yes I was going to put a track alright. didn't think of using a wheel actually to take the weight off.

If doin it like that would the track want to be sunk in to the ground a bit so you wouldn't be tripping over it the whole time?

Which Might lead to the problem of having to clean out around the rail every so often as any little stones or dirt could stop the wheels being able to slide along the rail.

GERMAN ROCKS

the_blue_oval wrote: »

If doin it like that would the track want to be sunk in to the ground a bit so you wouldn't be tripping over it the whole time?

Which Might lead to the problem of having to clean out around the rail every so often as any little stones or dirt could stop the wheels being able to slide along the rail.

I was thinking of using chanel iron for the bottom track and sit it into the concrete and have each side up about an inch. id would be easy to clean out the middle every now and then.

gctest50

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

I was thinking of using chanel iron for the bottom track and sit it into the concrete and have each side up about an inch. id would be easy to clean out the middle every now and then.

the wheels just running in the channel iron will drive you demented with stones n gravel

whatcha need is weld a length of round bar along the centre of the channel and large wheels to suit

bigger the wheels, the better ( within reason )

you'll have to make guards for the wheels so your foot won't get trapped

sh1tstirrer

gctest50 wrote: »

the wheels just running in the channel iron will drive you demented with stones n gravel

whatcha need is weld a length of round bar along the centre of the channel and large wheels to suit

bigger the wheels, the better ( within reason )

you'll have to make guards for the wheels so your foot won't get trapped

It would be less hassle to put channel iron for the rail on top and forget the track at the bottom.

GERMAN ROCKS

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

It would be less hassle to put channel iron for the rail on top and forget the track at the bottom.

I think you would still need some guide in the bottom. sure wouldn't the bottom be swinging back and forth otherwise and possibly banging off the second door is they were together.

Chemical Byrne

I would say put the bar track along the bottom to bear the weight of the doors.
Then just have some sort of guide track along the top

foxy farmer

How about a concertina door or bifold door? One track top and bottom and doors can be opened together or independently.

MickeyShtyles

foxy farmer wrote: »

How about a concertina door or bifold door? One track top and bottom and doors can be opened together or independently.

Roller door be too expensive?

foxy farmer

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

Roller door be too expensive?

Neighbour here lost most of a new shed last February because a 16' wide roller door caved in during the storms. Need a pipe standing inside for support against high winds. Too slow to open and close plus too much of an opening just for pedestrian access ie 16ftx6ft high as oppossed to 3ftx door height in a sliding door.

mayota

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

that was my plan which would result in one door sliding past the other and in that case the timber would have to take the weight of both doors.

Price roller doors. 16' sliding doors won't work on that shed. If you could manage with 10' openings you could put two 6' sliding doors each side, this would suit the runners better. A length of flat steel welded to the doors and a hook from the shed will stop the doors moving in or out at the bottom. Price the hangers and rail before you start, won't be long adding up.

have2flushtwice

I got a load of s/h galvanize a few years back. What I do is hang the gate higher than normal, screw the sheets onto the gate and your done. Overlap if you have to
Opens in and out, it's off the ground, and sturdy.


You can cut the gate any length you want, just bolt a bit onto the end to keep some structure on it
It's a rough and ready option, but if money is tight, it's the job.

GERMAN ROCKS

you see the thing is that I already have a load of spare lengths of 2x1 and was going to use it to make the doors. all I really need to buy is sheeting and the trackers

sh1tstirrer

I made a 6"x6" door for the dairy back in 1997 sheeted with flat galvanise both sides rollers and track. It cost £180 back then.

onyerbikepat

foxy farmer wrote: »

Neighbour here lost most of a new shed last February because a 16' wide roller door caved in during the storms. Need a pipe standing inside for support against high winds. Too slow to open and close plus too much of an opening just for pedestrian access ie 16ftx6ft high as oppossed to 3ftx door height in a sliding door.

Not surprised. I dunno how you can give advice on how to hang a door without seeing the whole design. A chain is only as strong as it weakest link, as they say. A large heavy sliding door is not the kind of thing you want falling around the place.