Tiles - need to remove from wooden floors

on_my_oe

We got tiles installed two months ago over wooden floors in the bathroom but they have started cracking.

What is the best method to remove them?

mick121

hammer and chisel.make sure you wear safety glasses.shouldnt take long but mind the sharp pieces of broken tile especially under yoyr knees.sounds like the tiler didnt put plywood down.you must fit wbp plywood to existing floorboards before you tile.

sky6

You also have to use the correct Adhesive for wooden floors as it needs to expand and contract.

mad m

sky6 wrote: »

You also have to use the correct Adhesive for wooden floors as it needs to expand and contract.

Very true, but were tiles laid directly on to original floorboards? If so they were doomed from start. First off floorboards need to be check to see if any movement, secure with screws. then plywood to go down at least 3/8 ply and most important bit is don't scrimp on screws when screwing it down.

on_my_oe

The floorboards were installed six years ago, but left bare (unfinished estate).

This will be the third time; first time we realised after 34hrs they were still moving - they used the wrong adhesive (pre-mixed I think).

I did ask about the plywood before they put them a second time as I had read something on a forum but got told I was being silly.

Suggestions on adhesive gratefully received - this time hubby will be doing it as he's watched it twice as the labourer and we can't afford a third session.

dodzy

on_my_oe wrote: »

The floorboards were installed six years ago, but left bare (unfinished estate).

This will be the third time; first time we realised after 34hrs they were still moving - they used the wrong adhesive (pre-mixed I think).

I did ask about the plywood before they put them a second time as I had read something on a forum but got told I was being silly.

Suggestions on adhesive gratefully received - this time hubby will be doing it as he's watched it twice as the labourer and we can't afford a third session.

3rd time lucky

1. Remove all traces of tiles and floor adhesive.
2. Cover floor with WBP ( Water/Boil proof ) wood floor covering - 12mm minimum board width.
3. Screw the board to existing floorboards ensuring that plenty of screws are used. THIS IS IMPORTANT ! Approx 4-6" ( or 100-150mm ) centres.
Also ensure that the screw length is not longer than 30mm as you will not know where potential pipework is located underneath the boards.
4. Use a good flexible floor tile adhesive - e.g - http://www.netweber.co.uk/tile-fixing-products/products/set-cement-based-tile-adhesives/weberset-rapid-spf.html
5. Lay tiles, remove excess adhesive as you go, and use tile spacers to ensure consistent gapping.
6. Grout tiles next day.
7. Job done.

* Depending on you OHs level of ability, I would recommend removing pedestal / WHB and toilet before starting this process as it makes it much easier and final results are aesthetically better.

Points 2 & 3 above are critical to the success of this project.

agusta

The problem with wbp plywood at the moment is that its all imported from china.its just not quite the same grade anymore.The best job is actually 12.5mm cement board,its foolproof but its alot more work fitting it

cletus

Considering your not getting the original tiler back to rectify h his mistake, did you look for a refund

on_my_oe

Fortunately we hadn't paid the whole invoice - we are still arguing over the additional costs from the second refit... We purchased the tiles plus the grout, trim, adhesive etc on his recommendation, so it was a labour only job.

Of course his first set of recommendations didn't do so well, so we were out of pocket plus the time OH spent labouring twice over.

He's now saying we should have known.

*deep breath*

mad m

on_my_oe wrote: »

I did ask about the plywood before they put them a second time as I had read something on a forum but got told I was being silly.

He'd want his head examined if he said that, not a tiler in my opinion, more a chancer.

e.r

I agree with the cement board idea.
As I had a conversation with a very good tiler and he refuses to put tiles on any type of wood substrate.

K.Flyer

on_my_oe wrote: »

We got tiles installed two months ago over wooden floors in the bathroom but they have started cracking.

What is the best method to remove them?

Smash one out with a good hammer and use a good spade to rip up the rest of them and to scrape off the adhesive.

+1 on the importance of the plywood, you are wasting your time and effort without it.

on_my_oe

Any tips on removing the adhesive a bit easier than the chisel or spade method? I think the OH is losing the will to live - tiles are off but still got to get the adhesive off

K.Flyer

on_my_oe wrote: »

Any tips on removing the adhesive a bit easier than the chisel or spade method? I think the OH is losing the will to live - tiles are off but still got to get the adhesive off

For hard to remove tile adhesive on a wall I would always use a steam wallpaper stripper from a hire shop.
It can be a bit messy but makes life a lot easier.
The concern I would have using it on a floor would be the steam / water going through the gaps in the flooring and onto the ceiling below. I would only consider it on a very good solid hard wood floor or ply, definitely not on chipboard.

lgk

on_my_oe wrote: »

Any tips on removing the adhesive a bit easier than the chisel or spade method? I think the OH is losing the will to live - tiles are off but still got to get the adhesive off

You could rip the entire floor up, then you'd be able to fit a good solid thick ply base without affecting the overall height of the finished floor.