Audi / vw electric throttle cleaning

i57dwun4yb1pt8

see this thread here :

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057374373

i attempted to clean the tbody , and managed to get the air side of the blade well clean , and it is making a difference already in idle and power
it had a lot of edge carbon and some oil in the pipe from the crank vent return.

but when i tried to clean the other side of the blade ( on the car ) i used 'the turn key and place weight on the accelerator method' . this opened the TB , and i was about to stick a small brush in , when it started opening and closing a few times , then repeated .

i got the scares and gave up .:pac::pac: ( CLUCK CLUCK CLUCK )

question : once opened should i pull the battery to leave it open or will it just spring closed IF POWER IS LOST ?

or

will it settle down after a bit and stay open

or

will i just accept defeat .

any help appreciated

tossy

Just take it out of the car and clean it properly ?

If you remove it from the car you will need to perform a throttle body adaption with VCDS when you refit it, there are a few people here who can help you with that including myself. Where are you based?

tossy

Just take it out of the car and clean it properly ?

If you remove it from the car you will need to perform a throttle body adaption with VCDS when you refit it, there are a few people here who can help you with that including myself. Where are you based?

i57dwun4yb1pt8

dub city center,

yeah i could take it off , but like to tread careful

i thought you could adapt it without VCDS using the key to position 2 5 min leave pedal alone / 5 min idle leave throttle alone procedure .

thanks

tossy

DaDumTish wrote: »

dub city center,

yeah i could take it off , but like to tread careful

i thought you could adapt it without VCDS using the key to position 2 5 min leave pedal alone / 5 min idle leave throttle alone procedure .

thanks

Never heard about that technique so not sure if it will work, i'd be dubious of it. Im in Kildare so if you are stuck for an adaption then give me a shout.

i57dwun4yb1pt8

thanks for the offer , will let you know apprceciate it

here is the procedure i used before , seems to work

1. remove negative lead for about 20mins and replace
2. Turn ignition to to first position and leave for 5 mins
3. start car and let idle for 5 mins
4. restart car and go dor a drive

John T Carroll

DaDumTish wrote: »

thanks for the offer , will let you know apprceciate it

here is the procedure i used before , seems to work

1. remove negative lead for about 20mins and replace
2. Turn ignition to to first position and leave for 5 mins
3. start car and let idle for 5 mins
4. restart car and go dor a drive

I have removed the T.Body both on the "cable" and the "electric" types a number of times and I never did anything after replacing them, the idling used to be a little high & erratic for a few miles or so but would then settle down to normal. I am also fairly sure that a good few years ago I replaced one for a friend (with a €35 used one) and certainly didnt adapt it, I would think that because it had been adapted once before that the ECU did a bit of "self learning". I would think though that a new replacement would certainly need adapting.

John T Carroll

John T Carroll wrote: »

I have removed the T.Body both on the "cable" and the "electric" types a number of times and I never did anything after replacing them, the idling used to be a little high & erratic for a few miles or so but would then settle down to normal. I am also fairly sure that a good few years ago I replaced one for a friend (with a €35 used one) and certainly didnt adapt it, I would think that because it had been adapted once before that the ECU did a bit of "self learning". I would think though that a new replacement would certainly need adapting.

2005 Vw Polo 1.2 (8 valve): I removed the wiring harness from the T.Body and started the engine. It idled reasonably normal, I then pressed the accelerator and the RPM increased to 1300/1400 RPM which must have been the ECU advancing the Ign.timing as the throttle plate was inoperative. When I released the accelerator the idling was then very erratic but the engine kept running, the EPC light was also displayed in the dash.
I then checked the error codes with my Autel Maxcan hand held scanner and two fault codes were displayed.
P1544 (17952) Angle sensor 1 for throttle actuator (G187) signal too large.
P1172 (17580) Angle sensor 2 for throttle actuator (G188) signal too low.
I then reset the codes and just started the engine with no delay and everything was back to normal, then went for a short spin.
I removed the air intake pipe from the throttle body and observed the throttle plate, the plate was opened just a few degrees with ignition off. I got somone to switch on the ignition and there was a click and the throttle plate just closed fully for a second or two and then returned to its initial "start" position. When the ignition was switched OFF there was about a 3 or 4 second whirring (motor) sound, during this time the throttle plate was motored and held FULLY CLOSED and then returned to its initial position.
I was very surprised as I thought that the throttle plate would be motored fully open and then shut for this period. I repeated the procedure four times with exactly the same results.
When available, I will do something similar with a Bora which has been in the family for over 15 years.(Cable operated but still uses a motorised idling system)

i57dwun4yb1pt8

i just cleaned the MAF and TB and replaced the intake pipe from MAF to TB as mine had a cracked PCV RETURN PIPE ,

TB was lightly coated ,

to clean it on the car i switched her on TO POSTION 2 , BUT NOT STARTED
and put weight on the accel pedal , this open the TB butterfly fully .
i then watched for a while , and low and behold the TB would move fully open and close 5 times in a row every one minute .

so i let it do one
and then cleaned the back of before it did it again
( and behind the butterfly ) did this 4 times then put it all back together.

then i took batt off for 30 mins ,
put it back, put the key at position 2 for 5 mins ,
then started her and let it idle for 5 ,
then went for a drive

it seems to have cured a number of issues i had with the car
( especially the new intake- which seems to have cured the idle stall when pressing the brake pedal )

so far so good fingers crossed.

tis a nerve racking experience when you are a noob and you need the car

John T Carroll

DaDumTish wrote: »

i just cleaned the MAF and TB and replaced the intake pipe from MAF to TB as mine had a cracked PCV RETURN PIPE ,

TB was lightly coated ,

to clean it on the car i switched her on TO POSTION 2 , BUT NOT STARTED
and put weight on the accel pedal , this open the TB butterfly fully .
i then watched for a while , and low and behold the TB would move fully open and close 5 times in a row every one minute .

so i let it do one
and then cleaned the back of before it did it again
( and behind the butterfly ) did this 4 times then put it all back together.

then i took batt off for 30 mins ,
put it back, put the key at position 2 for 5 mins ,
then started her and let it idle for 5 ,
then went for a drive

it seems to have cured a number of issues i had with the car
( especially the new intake- which seems to have cured the idle stall when pressing the brake pedal )

so far so good fingers crossed.

tis a nerve racking experience when you are a noob and you need the car

Thats very interesting, it would appear from both our observations that the throttle plate is "cleaned" every time that the ignition is switched off, as, (in the Polos case at least) it is kept fully closed for a number of seconds. I wonder does the ECU monitor the TPSs during this shut period?.
Throttle Bodies aside, Tramp Air has sent many a person on a wild goose chase and Fault Code Finders should always be only thought of as a very good help in diagnosing a problem as can be seen by this edited eMail that I sent to a friend of mine a few years ago.

i57dwun4yb1pt8

Nice one, I think I am lucky being a noobie that i caught it, I didnt know what pcv was til last week seems to be an achilles heel for modern engines.