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what would best dryling solution be ?

  • 03-02-2015 12:20am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭


    folks, can anyone advise as to what the best drylining solution would be for our walls.
    It seems to be EW with battons attached and the plasterboard attached to that forming a cavity.
    We are having the whole inside redone and are thinking we might as well kill 2 birds as they say and have the place dry lined.
    Also, whats the opinion on this stuff ? EcoQuilt. Could we just nail this to the current boards and put plasterboard over it and replaster ?

    Thanks
    Rob


Comments

  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    EW?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    EW?
    are you suggesting EWI or asking what EW means? External wall.


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    I was asking what it stood for.

    What's the actual construction?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Looks to be cavity block with a cavity of battons and plaster board.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 623 ✭✭✭tedimc


    I've to dryline a cavity block extension in my house also.

    Currently think of studding out 2 inches from the external wall, then spray 'Walltite' to the wall and between studs and then probably an insulated plasterboard.

    Studding will be fixed to the floor and ceiling joists. Never seen that ecoquilt stuff.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,889 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    ECOQUILT comes from the same stable as a nu mbar of similar products.
    They have got a bad press in certain quarters due to the performance figures being based on very specific lab conditions that are virtually impossible to replicate on site. I can't remember the detail this late but its here somewhere on the forum.
    The one listed has a U value of 0.44 which they claim to be similar to 120 mm of fibre glass.
    In addition if it is 100% impervious there are condensation risks, its not clear if it is breathable but his Alu foil in part.

    In relation to "Could we just nail this to the current boards and put plasterboard over it and replaster ? "
    The answer is given in the detailed instructions in the link provided.
    Did you read the ones for walls?
    http://www.ecohome-insulation.com/files/ww/EcoQuilt%20Data%20Sheet%20Walls.pdf

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    ECOQUILT comes from the same stable as a nu mbar of similar products.
    They have got a bad press in certain quarters due to the performance figures being based on very specific lab conditions that are virtually impossible to replicate on site. I can't remember the detail this late but its here somewhere on the forum.
    The one listed has a U value of 0.44 which they claim to be similar to 120 mm of fibre glass.
    In addition if it is 100% impervious there are condensation risks, its not clear if it is breathable but his Alu foil in part.

    thanks
    In relation to "Could we just nail this to the current boards and put plasterboard over it and replaster ? "
    The answer is given in the detailed instructions in the link provided.
    Did you read the ones for walls?
    http://www.ecohome-insulation.com/files/ww/EcoQuilt%20Data%20Sheet%20Walls.pdf

    I did thanks - I was a nit confused as the description states its pulled tight over the battens, stapled on to them and the plaster board nailed through the sheets into the battens, but the image shows the quilt having the battens on the internal side of it with the battens nailed through it ?

    Or have i it all wrong ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,889 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I will look later but if I recall its wall, batten, quilt, batten, plaster board.
    The airtight airgap both sides of the quilt is a key part of the performance if I recall correctly from the chat years ago on here. This is very difficult to achieve.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    thanks, what confused me was the vertical batten. I thought it was some sort of plasterboard.

    given that we have wall, batten, plasterboard, would simply placing a layer of insulated board on the current plasterboard and finishing it be a good insulation do you think ?

    Thanks fir your help

    Rob


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    thanks, what confused me was the vertical batten. I thought it was some sort of plasterboard.

    given that we have wall, batten, plasterboard, would simply placing a layer of insulated board on the current plasterboard and finishing it be a good insulation do you think ?

    Thanks fir your help

    Rob

    your dew point would be on the existing plasterboard and battens... this would create a build up of fungus and mould over time, leading to health problems for the inhabitants of the dwelling. This issue would be most prevalent at junctions of existing walls, roofs and floors.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,889 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055001623
    Is a thread from the past re this sort of stuff.
    You will see from the posts that there were some v knowledgeable folk discussing the products, the search word is Actis.
    Concur with post re dew point. You also need to ensure the battens meet the fire regs, one aspect being that there is a continuous horizontal batten at floor and ceiling to act as a fire break.
    I dont like the tin foil stuff, period.
    By battens on battens you are using up space with no correspondence in increased insulation.
    I would, as I put on my hard hat for the poly fans flak!, look at natural insulation solutions -snip-

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    your dew point would be on the existing plasterboard and battens... this would create a build up of fungus and mould over time, leading to health problems for the inhabitants of the dwelling. This issue would be most prevalent at junctions of existing walls, roofs and floors.

    So we would need to pull off the existing plasterboard, use foil backed insulation board and then plaster that or is there another layer ?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    So we would need to pull off the existing plasterboard, use foil backed insulation board and then plaster that or is there another layer ?

    This is not good practice as explained by syd above - assuming you have cavity blocks 'breeze blocks' wall construction.

    The larger product manufactures will recommend metal studs/ insulation/ fully taped & sealed vapour barrier / plaster board

    Insulated plasterboard is cheap, Time will tell how it fares. studying long term health issues of mould & 'sick building syndrome When so many other factors can effect such stats is difficult. If you must stick with The minimum thickness of say 30mm insulated slabs (as per the breaking the mould series)


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