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Prepare walls for Painting

  • 29-01-2015 10:16PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 649 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I have removed wallpaper from the hallway and ceiling(!) The wallpaper was tough to remove even with a steamer.

    After getting it all off there is a gold/brown colour on the wall that could be paint? It is very light and peeling off in parts.
    There are also some cracks and little bits of plaster missing.

    How do I prepare this for painting. Should I get it plastered lightly? Or do I just go ahead and paint?

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,226 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    K09 wrote: »
    Hi,

    I have removed wallpaper from the hallway and ceiling(!) The wallpaper was tough to remove even with a steamer.

    After getting it all off there is a gold/brown colour on the wall that could be paint? It is very light and peeling off in parts.
    There are also some cracks and little bits of plaster missing.

    How do I prepare this for painting. Should I get it plastered lightly? Or do I just go ahead and paint?

    Thanks!
    It's wallpaper adhesive left behind. Don't bother trying to get it off. Call in a plasterer, otherwise it'll end up looking like a dogs dinner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    dodzy wrote: »
    It's wallpaper adhesive left behind. Don't bother trying to get it off. Call in a plasterer, otherwise it'll end up looking like a dogs dinner.

    Sorry have to disagree here.
    It looks very much like the wall has been previously been painted With some of the paint pealing of when removing the paper.
    Op. To get the best way to get a good finish is to 1st fill and sand cracks holes and rub down smooth. Then apply lining paper 1000 grade should be enough and the repaint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,226 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Ceepo wrote: »
    Sorry have to disagree here.
    It looks very much like the wall has been previously been painted With some of the paint pealing of when removing the paper.
    Op. To get the best way to get a good finish is to 1st fill and sand cracks holes and rub down smooth. Then apply lining paper 1000 grade should be enough and the repaint.

    Looks very like the glue residue left behind after the stripping process.

    337039.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    dodzy wrote: »
    Looks very like the glue residue left behind after the stripping process.

    337039.jpg
    When you strip paper of course there will be glue residue left behind but it will never look like this. (raised edges).Looking at picture no 3 It appears that some of the paint as come of with the paper which is very common leaving the wall looking like the walls in the pictures.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 649 ✭✭✭K09


    Don't want to use lining paper. So is next best option to get walls skimmed?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,038 ✭✭✭mad m


    K09 wrote: »
    Don't want to use lining paper. So is next best option to get walls skimmed?

    By all means if you have the money get walls skimmed, nothing like a smooth wall, but if you have the patience then give walls a good sanding down, paint walls with a Matt finish then poly fill the defects,cracks etc sand down poly filler when dry and touch up poly filler with wall colour, give whole of area another coat of Matt emulsion. Oh sometimes the poly filler will sink so it might need another filling.

    The pictures above is the wall paper paste has eaten into the paint film that was previously there. I'll give you an example, have you ever seen a room being wallpapered, after a few month the ceiling paint has started to crack or craze? This is because the trades man forgot to wipe off the excess wallpaper paste from ceiling after doing his cuts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    mad m wrote: »
    By all means if you have the money get walls skimmed, nothing like a smooth wall, but if you have the patience then give walls a good sanding down, paint walls with a Matt finish then poly fill the defects,cracks etc sand down poly filler when dry and touch up poly filler with wall colour, give whole of area another coat of Matt emulsion. Oh sometimes the poly filler will sink so it might need another filling.

    In my experience sanding, painting, filling and re sanding as above will be hugely time consuming and will never have the desired smooth effect as filler needs, well a hole to fill.
    If you flush fill the walls as is and sand my guess would be most of the filler will sand out as the the surface area in not deep enough to hold it.

    Op bear in mind if you get the walls skimmed The plasterer will have to score and polybond the walls first. Sockets and light switches will have to be removed and if you have and external corners he might have to put on coroner beads. Allow for 2/3 mm of skim coat. This may or may not affect existing skirting and door frames.

    Anyway best of luck with the job.

    Ceepo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,038 ✭✭✭mad m


    Ceepo wrote: »
    In my experience sanding, painting, filling and re sanding as above will be hugely time consuming and will never have the desired smooth effect as filler needs, well a hole to fill.
    If you flush fill the walls as is and sand my guess would be most of the filler will sand out as the the surface area in not deep enough to hold it.

    Op bear in mind if you get the walls skimmed The plasterer will have to score and polybond the walls first. Sockets and light switches will have to be removed and if you have and external corners he might have to put on coroner beads. Allow for 2/3 mm of skim coat. This may or may not affect existing skirting and door frames.

    Anyway best of luck with the job.

    Ceepo

    Maybe time consuming to the ordinary Joe soap, but to a tradesman maybe not. It all depends on how handy the OP is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    mad m wrote: »
    Maybe time consuming to the ordinary Joe soap, but to a tradesman maybe not. It all depends on how handy the OP is.

    While I agree the a trade man will do it quick and probably do a better job I still say that it will not look as week as if you put up lining paper.
    look at it this way. Sand and paint wall will take a few hours, then leave dry for another few hrs. Fill holes and let dry another hour maybe more, sand, repaint and leave dry another few hours. Refill areas that need it and re sand. Even say touch up the fill again.
    IMO from painting for 20 years it will still not look as good as lining paper will.
    Anyway that's my input hope it works out well for you OP.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,038 ✭✭✭mad m


    Yeah but he might save money doing it himself if OP is handy enough. Polyfiller goes off quick enough especially if heating is on. But first coat of paint on walls id leave overnight, from experience painting walls that were once papered it takes ages for emulsion to go off. Lining walls from my experience needs a good job done on lining paper, walls will still have to filled if big enough holes or cracks.

    Contractor I used to work for used to leave a mil of a gap between seams as he used to get me to fill them with polyfiller to create a seamless wall as sometimes the edges can butt up to each other....Each to his own I suppose.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,082 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    Give the walls a good wash with zinsser dif, Krudkutter orginal or sugar soap and a very good sand,once you have this done prime the walls with zinsser Gardz or Johnstones ups to hold back any left over paste residue then once dry paint away.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Give the walls a good wash with zinsser dif, Krudkutter orginal or sugar soap and a very good sand,once you have this done prime the walls with zinsser Gardz or Johnstones ups to hold back any left over paste residue then once dry paint away.

    Will doing the above method take out the imperfections on the wall, after the paper was stripped ? (Seen in Pictures )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,082 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    Ceepo wrote: »
    Will doing the above method take out the imperfections on the wall, after the paper was stripped ? (Seen in Pictures )

    Obviously a bit of filling would be needed but filling would also be needed if lining. Lining the walls will give you a good base to work off but a good prep and a coat of zinsser gardz you would also have a good base.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 649 ✭✭✭K09


    Got quoted 1k to get walls skimmed! Seems crazy price to me. But maybe it is standard?

    He says its 2-3 days work. Hallway upstairs and downstairs. And downstairs ceiling.
    Regular 3-bed semi-detached house.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 649 ✭✭✭K09




  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    IF you can afford it you should get the walls skimmed.

    Nothing looks better than a smooth,even wall and you can paint it and repaint it over the years with no more prepping.

    I had similar walls but with gouges from previous owners scraping off paper,knocking in nails and whatever else..I tried filling and sanding but the marks were visible once I painted and it never looked right til I got them skimmed.

    A plasterer will charge about 300 for a good sized room but shop around for quotes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,038 ✭✭✭mad m




  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    mad m wrote: »
    Steer well clear...

    Doubt its any use and the instructions aren't for the faint hearted


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