Reblue.

snipe49

Lad i want to reblue my side by side the barrels are bad on it . Have any of you got any advice on where i might get a kit to do the job.

sniperman

snipe49 wrote: »

Lad i want to reblue my side by side the barrels are bad on it . Have any of you got any advice on where i might get a kit to do the job.

google gun blueing kit,all the stuff youll need;)

snipe49

sniperman wrote: »

google gun blueing kit,all the stuff youll need;)

Good man will do.

djflawless

I think griffin hawe sell them bud

djflawless

Literally just got this for my own use!let you know how it goes!

snipe49

djflawless wrote: »

Literally just got this for my own use!let you know how it goes!

good luck with it what are u using to clean all the old stuff off with. ?

djflawless

Not sure what way I'm going to manoeuvre yet!
Will have a bit of research done before I even open the bottle

snipe49

djflawless wrote: »

Not sure what way I'm going to manoeuvre yet!
Will have a bit of research done before I even open the bottle

A lad on here tld me t have a look on U Tube i did and there all u need to knw on there,'

djflawless

Ah well not going to chance it till I know I have a few hours to spare for definite but there will be plenty of research done

Chiparus

I find those kits are "OK" for small spots, but you are much better off getting it done professionally if you have large areas.


I got my 1982 shotgun done recently , the barrels are like new again.

snipe49

Chiparus wrote: »

I find those kits are "OK" for small spots, but you are much better off getting it done professionally if you have large areas.


I got my 1982 shotgun done recently , the barrels are like new again.

If u don't mind me asking how much did it cost. ?

Chiparus

€120, with new sights/beads.

snipey

where did you get it done

Chiparus

PM sent

J s682

Would you mind sending me the details also? How long is the turn around on getting them done?

mickjohnlong

hi could you also sent me on the details as well please.

recipio

There is a world of difference between hot and cold blueing.
A professional will use the hot blueing technique which is way better than touch ups with cold blue. A lot of the work involves pre-cleaning and personally I'd spend the money for a nice job.

tac foley

Cold bluing is great for screw heads, barrel bands and small components where a single-wipe action covers it in one fell swoop. Many times. I've used the Birchwood-Casey stuff for many years on such pieces, and it CAN be very good. However, everything depends on the level of preparation, and I made sure that every piece I did started off looking like it was polished to a a 'chrome-plate' level before ever I laid the stuff on it. Cotton gloves, not vinyl, and absolute cleanliness are the order of the day.

About ten years ago, I had a Mauser back sight unit salt-blued to match the rest of the 1937-build rifle - it cost £120, much of which went on a one-day HAZMAT license to use fuming cyanide salts to effect the finish. Barrel bluing- called blacking in the trade - is not something done lightly by an amateur.

tac

snipe49

tac foley wrote: »

Cold bluing is great for screw heads, barrel bands and small components where a single-wipe action covers it in one fell swoop. Many times. I've used the Birchwood-Casey stuff for many years on such pieces, and it CAN be very good. However, everything depends on the level of preparation, and I made sure that every piece I did started off looking like it was polished to a a 'chrome-plate' level before ever I laid the stuff on it. Cotton gloves, not vinyl, and absolute cleanliness are the order of the day.

About ten years ago, I had a Mauser back sight unit salt-blued to match the rest of the 1937-build rifle - it cost £120, much of which went on a one-day HAZMAT license to use fuming cyanide salts to effect the finish. Barrel bluing- called blacking in the trade - is not something done lightly by an amateur.

tac

What would you use to pre clean barrels ?

tac foley

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I9wCeD2eh4

Many methods on YT, but basically the old surface must be removed by using fine abrasive paper - 300/400 grade to avoid scratches - and then, ideally, polished using a motorised polishing wheel or mop, set to run at around 300rpm - to avoid friction burns on the exposed steel.

That's what I did - your mileage may differ.

tac