Fencing around a new house

Dunedin

looking to fence around the house. It's a new build and built in the middle of farm but beside the main road.

part of the fencing will be the avenue in from the road (circa 100 yards) and the rest will be against adjacent fields - suckler/beef farm.

basically what I am looking for is something that will be easy on the eye as per the avenue and whatever is fit for purpose for around the fields but all needs to be stockproof also - needs to be low maintenance too.

any suggestions or recommendations of any provider (Athlone area).

any pictures would be much appreciated.

Connemara Farmer

If it's pictures of fencing ya want....

http://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/the-fencing-picture-thread.635/

Nekarsulm

Post and three rail concrete. Its slow and awkward to put up, and if you get one post even a fraction high or low, it stand out like a sore thumb. But get your levels and curves right, with at least a mixer full of concrete around each post, and its done for life.

You then thread high tensile wire through the posts and tension till it sings, and the jobs a good un.

Farmer Pudsey

Hedge and electric fence. Mixture of whitethorn along avenue and beech around house. Single strand of electric fence.

mayota

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Post and three rail concrete. Its slow and awkward to put up, and if you get one post even a fraction high or low, it stand out like a sore thumb. But get your levels and curves right, with at least a mixer full of concrete around each post, and its done for life.

You then thread high tensile wire through the posts and tension till it sings, and the jobs a good un.

+1. Lifetime job and looks well.
You can also use concrete posts and timber rails.

poor farmer

I think that concrete post and rail is damn ugly,The council put it up along roads. It looks a bit "industrial"
I would go with a good strong hedge whitethorn /beech planted double row 6"spacing or timber post and rail.
Or my favorite Just my opinion
https://www.google.com/search?q=steel+estate+fencing&biw=1242&bih=597&tbm=isch&imgil=oD6A9g9xTLtiAM%253A%253Bgx9NJ3M9CX21eM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fcheshirefencingwarrington.co.uk%25252Fsecurity-fencing-gates%25252F4545172031&source=iu&pf=m&fir=oD6A9g9xTLtiAM%253A%252Cgx9NJ3M9CX21eM%252C_&usg=__jIA4lpU3VQmy7NbB6NhDrC4Cts0%3D&ved=0CDgQyjc&ei=HpDBVMvYFbHU7AaMhYGADg#imgdii=_&imgrc=oD6A9g9xTLtiAM%253A%3Bgx9NJ3M9CX21eM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fcheshirefencingwarrington.co.uk%252Fcommunities%252F7%252F004%252F008%252F270%252F217%252Fimages%252F4543839340.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fcheshirefencingwarrington.co.uk%252Fsecurity-fencing-gates%252F4545172031%3B349%3B200

Genghis Cant

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

Hedge and electric fence. Mixture of whitethorn along avenue and beech around house. Single strand of electric fence.

Another vote for hedging here. Whitethorn mixed with the bit of hazel and holly and an odd spindle tree. If you've kids get them out and plant a few trees, they'll never forget it, and the trees can grow with the kids!
We've a lovely hedge around the house of hornbeam, it's very like beech.

Farmer Pudsey

As well with a hedge GLAS will fund it if you enter GLAS

Muckit

You have no right boundary line with using a hedge only. Yes you can say the centre of the hedge, but it's a bit wishy washy. I would put concrete stakes and plain HT wire strung between them. Then plant your hedge inside or along the fenceline. The fence will act as support to train the hedge.

The VAT on the fencing materials can be reclaimed.

It may not come into play now, but a clear boundary is a good thing. Hedges in their lifetime are susceptible to storm or stock damage.

Some may think it overkill, but do it once, do it right.

Chemical Byrne

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Post and three rail concrete. Its slow and awkward to put up, and if you get one post even a fraction high or low, it stand out like a sore thumb. But get your leve................

Concrete post and rail for an avenue up to a farm house? You must be joking. It'll make the place look like a grotty council depot. They very rarely use it on roads anymore anyway it's so ugly.

If you want the place to look decent put up a pressure treated timber post and rail fence. It is much easier on the eye. It's usually larch and that is very long lived. Don't put it too close to the road, set it back a good 4 meters and then plant ash or beeches or some other native deciduous at intervals along the margin. Don't get saplings, get decent trees that have 10-15 years growth on them from a good nursery. It will look well in time to come.

onyerbikepat

Trust me, if you get a pressure treated post and rail, it won't be Larch. It's all soft timber they use. It's well treated, in fairness and will last a long time, but it ain't any of the expensive hard woods.

What's wrong with a decent stone cut wall. Expensive but no maintenance when done right.

Chemical Byrne

Really? Well if going with timber he should make a point of getting it in larch. Maybe go to a few sawmills and see can they supply it. Its worth it. We have a larch p&r fence that was put up with the house in 1979. It's still OK but getting a few spots of rot in places. Still, 35 odd years from a timber fence is good going.

A lovely dry stone wall would be gorgeous. That's look very will in time to come if he plants some native trees along it.
Just make sure to leave enough room in the margin so that when the trees are mature it isn't all cramped up.
Your grandchildren will thank you for it.

severeoversteer

Dunedin wrote: »

looking to fence around the house. It's a new build and built in the middle of farm but beside the main road.

part of the fencing will be the avenue in from the road (circa 100 yards) and the rest will be against adjacent fields - suckler/beef farm.

basically what I am looking for is something that will be easy on the eye as per the avenue and whatever is fit for purpose for around the fields but all needs to be stockproof also - needs to be low maintenance too.

any suggestions or recommendations of any provider (Athlone area).

any pictures would be much appreciated.

what about a block wall?
5 to 6 blocks high, and rub the joints or plaster it
you could then sow a hedge alongside when ever it suits,

Chemical Byrne

severeoversteer wrote: »

what about a block wall?
5 to 6 blocks high, and rub the joints or plaster it
you could then sow a hedge alongside when ever it suits,

Pretty damn ugly too. What is it with people proposing crude looking walls & fences. This is the avenue up to the house, not a back entrance to the yard.

If you're doing a wall, a dry stone wall is the way to go. They're expensive but they look very well.

Dunedin

cheers for the responses.

a stone wall would be gorgeous but well exceeds the budget at the min.

concrete post and rail and/or block wall would resemble an industrial estate....

intending to go with the concrete post and chain link wire at the back of the house and next to the fields with a hedge of sorts on the inside.

I would like a timber post and rail (with chain link wire also) for the avenue. it does look well when done right. just worried about the maintenance and the lifespan but would gladly settle for 20 years given one poster has got 35 years from theirs.

Would probably finish out the avenue with stone peers at the entrance alright.

severeoversteer

Chemical Byrne wrote: »

Pretty damn ugly too. What is it with people proposing crude looking walls & fences. This is the avenue up to the house, not a back entrance to the yard.

If you're doing a wall, a dry stone wall is the way to go. They're expensive but they look very well.

well the block wall can be faced with stonework wherever the man wants it, especially along by the road

all im saying is with the price some lads spend on concrete post and rail or any fence like it you would have built a block wall for less than the money

and when the opp has money he can face the block wall with stone, that's if the boundary hasn't been consumed by hedges in the meantime ! :rolleyes:

was at a job recently and saw all the concrete stakes broken at the but from cattle scratching on them, and the wire was sagged from holding up the stakes :mad:

Chemical Byrne

Post and rail is the way to go then. Look out for the larch, it'll be worth the extra few bob as it lasts.

Why are you putting chainlink wire on it? That will spoil the look badly. Can't you just attach the electric fence (or sheepwire) onto the rear of the fence?

Why not continue the timber fence around the back of the house too. It looks much better and I can't see there being much difference in the price.

Farmer Pudsey

Timber or concrete post fencing will cost in excess of 10 euro/metre. You will still need to dress it with hedge or threes. Using native Irish hedging will always look well. In 5 years time it will provide a visual and in the case of Whitethorn a stock proof barrier. A single strand of Electric fence on the field side will provide total stock proofing.

If you manage to get GLAs it will cost nothing. VAT is reclaimable on both the fencing and the hedging.

Markcheese

Chemical Byrne wrote: »

Concrete post and rail for an avenue up to a farm house? You must be joking. It'll make the place look like a grotty council depot. They very rarely use it on roads anymore anyway it's so ugly.

If you want the place to look decent put up a pressure treated timber post and rail fence. It is much easier on the eye. It's usually larch and that is very long lived. Don't put it too close to the road, set it back a good 4 meters and then plant ash or beeches or some other native deciduous at intervals along the margin. Don't get saplings, get decent trees that have 10-15 years growth on them from a good nursery. It will look well in time to come.

10-15 year old trees will look great immediately, cost a fortune,will need watering in a dry summer and be more likely to fail - and within 5 year saplings'd be up to them anyway !! , plant them through weed block fabric with the edges buried- (plastic'd do it but can get messy )

Muckit

Lads, on a somewhat related note, what's the name of those tall straight trees you see used for windbreaks?

They are straight as a dye, 20'-30' high and don't grow out very far. Wouldn't be a lot of foliage on them but would be excellent for windbreak. They look very well l think and could do with getting some.

Anyone know or have experience of the trees l'm talking about?

farawaygrass

I think sevenovetsteer is bang on, a block wall and it's a worry free job for like. Just imagine yourself 20 years say from now, fence getting a bit dodgey and one of two small gaps I'm hedge. Not very stock proof. Imagine the hassle hassle having to go fix it up. Not a job I'd like facing into, and if you ignore it and animals break thought, it's not your lawns is be worried about but the road gate.
If you are planting a hedge it will hide the block wall anyhow, and the wall will give the hedge a great start with shelter.

frazzledhome

Muckit wrote: »

Lads, on a somewhat related note, what's the name of those tall straight trees you see used for windbreaks?

They are straight as a dye, 20'-30' high and don't grow out very far. Wouldn't be a lot of foliage on them but would be excellent for windbreak. They look very well l think and could do with getting some.

Anyone know or have experience of the trees l'm talking about?

Poplar, keep away from services, walls or buildings as they have a massive root system to support their height.

Farmer Pudsey

farawaygrass wrote: »

I think sevenovetsteer is bang on, a block wall and it's a worry free job for like. Just imagine yourself 20 years say from now, fence getting a bit dodgey and one of two small gaps I'm hedge. Not very stock proof. Imagine the hassle hassle having to go fix it up. Not a job I'd like facing into, and if you ignore it and animals break thought, it's not your lawns is be worried about but the road gate.
If you are planting a hedge it will hide the block wall anyhow, and the wall will give the hedge a great start with shelter.

If you keep a strip of electric fence on field side of hedge nothing will get throught. 2-3 rows of hedging and prune hard for first 3-4 years.

onyerbikepat

Teagasc advice on a stock proof hedge.

http://www.teagasc.ie/environment/Publications/stockproofhedge.establishment.factsheet.pdf

Base price

Agree with hedging and post and rail.
I have 4 rail timber post & rail at home with pig tails attached to carry the electric fence on the field side. I planted beech hedging (double row) on the inside and am very happy with the results.
Fence needs very little attention except for a painting every 8 years or so and the hedge gets trimmed twice a year. I bought fence paint that is blackish in colour but lasts for years. It is expensive at €80 for 25ltrs the last time I got it 5 years ago.
Fence and hedge are nearly 20 years old.

Greengrass1

Base price wrote: »

Agree with hedging and post and rail.
I have 4 rail timber post & rail at home with pig tails attached to carry the electric fence on the field side. I planted beech hedging (double row) on the inside and am very happy with the results.
Fence needs very little attention except for a painting every 8 years or so and the hedge gets trimmed twice a year. I bought fence paint that is blackish in colour but lasts for years. It is expensive at €80 for 25ltrs the last time I got it 5 years ago.
Fence and hedge are nearly 20 years old.

Could you put up s picture BP?
Please.
We have 4 strand wire here on avenue. Top and middle strands are electrified
.very old drive way lime trees over 200yr old.
Fence is down 10 yr now. Looks well.
I'll put a picture tomorrow

Base price

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Could you put up s picture BP?
Please.
We have 4 strand wire here on avenue. Top and middle strands are electrified
.very old drive way lime trees over 200yr old.
Fence is down 10 yr now. Looks well.
I'll put a picture tomorrow

Yep, will do during the week when I am back there.

delaney001

Muckit wrote: »

Lads, on a somewhat related note, what's the name of those tall straight trees you see used for windbreaks?

They are straight as a dye, 20'-30' high and don't grow out very far. Wouldn't be a lot of foliage on them but would be excellent for windbreak. They look very well l think and could do with getting some.

Anyone know or have experience of the trees l'm talking about?

I'd say Leylandii

Genghis Cant

delaney001 wrote: »

I'd say Leylandii

Goin on the description I'd be sure it's the aforementioned Poplar. Leylandii don't fit the bill as they grow out quite wide, and are evergreen, so plenty of foliage on them.

I wouldn't let them round the place either, but that's another story!

I'm not overly gone on Poplar either, though they have they're good points. Depending on location a row of Silver Birch can be a nice windbreak.

49801

Eco post http://www.gallagherireland.com/fence_component.aspx?mktprodid=4729
And 4 strands of plain electric wire.

Dig holes with mini digger for posts and use quick concrete so set.
Only thing is posts do not like a curve and will bend.
Otherwise a good job!

I'd consider galvanised box section for posts myself with tube insulator through the middle and a plastic cap. Painted black would be nice.

P_Cash

opinions please

im in the same boat as op.

ive looked at all options, for me:

concrect posts = eye sore
Wall = too expensive and wont look right, ive a long ave.
hedge, are u kidding me, it has to be maintained 2twice a year to make it easy.

my results of countless searches is either

Pressure treated timber, post and rail. post to be burried in hammered 804. (concrete will rot the posts in 10 yrs). all to be painted with burnt oil every 1/2 years.

electric fence on inside to protect against animals.

or

(Havnt seen it mentioned here).

http://fogartypvcfencing.com/ranch-rail/

which i love. set in concrete. washed with water/bleach once a year.
Ive seen this in a few houses, and looks as new as it did the year it went up, 6yrs plus.


electric fence on inside to protect against animals.




Regards.

enricoh

i've 150 yards of an enterance n put in 4" square timber posts and 3 lats going across 10 years ago this year n they are still grand. i'd say i'll get another 10 out of them. i didnt get treated posts or bother dipping in oil etc.
i had a 12 ton digger at the time n just pushed the pegs in with that n no lean mix or 804.
get lats that have the rounded corners as rain is less inclined to sit on the top. i,ve a 6' griselinia hedge with it, a couple of hours with the hedgecutter once every 18 months and it keeps the place looking smart.

Dunedin

Chemical Byrne wrote: »

Post and rail is the way to go then. Look out for the larch, it'll be worth the extra few bob as it lasts.

Why are you putting chainlink wire on it? That will spoil the look badly. Can't you just attach the electric fence (or sheepwire) onto the rear of the fence?

Why not continue the timber fence around the back of the house too. It looks much better and I can't see there being much difference in the price.

thinking of chainlink as it means that the risk is removed of the young fella following me in to the farm unknown and also, if I get home late and haven't time to bring the dogs for a run, then I can let them out around the house.

- close one gate and young buck and dogs cannot go anywhere.

wouldn't be going for the mainstream chainlink - basically anything that will suffice and is relatively easy on the eye.

lakill Farm

similar going on here soon, but with an office for work but based on the farm here .

Along the road Im going with rectangular posts spaced at 8ft and a single rail at 4 to 4.5ft. Ill drive them with a post driver and PDM posts and repaint in year 2 and every 3 years with half old oil and creteocoat
then buying 4ft beech trees at €1.50 a pop and planting at 18inch spacing.

Along the sides and rear I will fence it with 2 stands of barb and sheep wire. and put 2 stands of electric on the insulators on little arms. And plant 18"/24" trees at 60c a pop