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A good gentlemans' tailor

  • 09-01-2015 5:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭


    Can anybody recommend a good tailor? You know the kind who can tell what brands will suit your build as soon as they see you. Knows their fabrics etc. Actually interested in making a sale.

    We have been looking over the last few weeks for a grooms suit and the service we have been getting has been really bad (louis Copeland an exception to that). Himself went on his own yesterday and the shop assistant tried to convince him to buy a suit that clearly did not fit. Some others have been completely unbothered. Spoke to a chap in brown Thomas who said he'd come back to look after us and never reappeared. I know its sale time but we are getting a really bad impression. we are fairly easygoing people with money to spend on the right suit. Himself is tall and very thin so we just need to find the right brand for him.

    (sorry if wrong forum for this)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,409 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    You answered your own question, OP. Louis is yer only man.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,812 ✭✭✭✭evolving_doors


    Not tailored but suitable company have a sale this weekend! exit 10 m50

    Its a long shot but ya never know.

    Friend got a 'Louis Copland' for his wedding and he may as well have been wearing a bin liner .. really bad fit... Although maybe they just made exactly what he wanted!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,812 ✭✭✭✭evolving_doors


    Saw a documentary about Johnson Tailors in tullow, co carlow. Now theres a place to get a REAL tailored suit made from scratch.

    Dunno how much time it takes though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭fits


    Armelodie wrote: »
    Saw a documentary about Johnson Tailors in tullow, co carlow. Now theres a place to get a REAL tailored suit made from scratch.

    Dunno how much time it takes though.

    That's interesting, will check it out. I don't know anything at all about men's suits but have been distinctly unimpressed with what I have seen so far, but, it is a bad time of year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭quadrifoglio verde


    Ive found the lads in James herren to be top notch. They've never let me out of there with out clothes that fit properly and look well on me and aren't pushy either.
    Unless they're happy with it on me, they won't let me buy it


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,925 ✭✭✭✭anncoates


    Got a suit done about 10 years ago in Maurice Abrahams in South Anne Street Dublin. Cost about 1300 IIRC.

    Picked the material and a basic design with a few custom changes and then got fitted twice for it

    Still have it and it's a grand suit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    There is no such thing as a tailor in Dublin anymore, the tailoring trade is dead years since the mass production of clothing. Any suit you buy off the hanger will have to be taken for alterations anyway so don't get too hooked up on the fit provided it's not way too big or way too small.

    If you want good customer service, this sounds like the most suitable for you http://www.patricksheary.ie/ He does bespoke and off the shelf suits.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭fits


    There is no such thing as a tailor in Dublin anymore, the tailoring trade is dead years since the mass production of clothing. Any suit you buy off the hanger will have to be taken for alterations anyway so don't get too hooked up on the fit provided it's not way too big or way too small.

    If you want good customer service, this sounds like the most suitable for you http://www.patricksheary.ie/ He does bespoke and off the shelf suits.

    Cheers for all suggestions folks. I do think the fit matters a bit as some brands suit a certain body type more than others.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    fits wrote: »
    Cheers for all suggestions folks. I do think the fit matters a bit as some brands suit a certain body type more than others.

    It definitely matters, the point I was making was that any suit you buy off the hanger will have be to altered to some extent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭TwoGuysDublin


    I've mixed things to say about Louis.

    I bought three suits from him, one for a wedding, one for my own wedding and one for a funeral. Bought the first two in the same branch and from two different people. One was interested in the suit, the other in the sale. Ended up back with the suit from the sale inclined person due to problems with the shirt. When I went home and evaluated the thing was like a bin liner. He looked at me in it and said nothing. The suit was nice though but there was a problem with the shoulder padding. After being told several times that there wasn't, I insisted their tailor fix it and he did.

    I don't know if many of the lads they have in there are more than salesmen with a "sharpened" eye for a suit. They certainly weren't dispensing any sartorial gems to me when I bought just tried to sell me a Canali off the bat. I had to mention the sleeves being shortened for example.
    I'm not bashing Louis, but I can't help but feel that between your own eye and the internet there's nothing you can't figure out about buying a suit. How complicated you want to get will likely be dictated by your budget.

    When it comes to altering, that's a different matter. As mentioned earlier, there are few actual tailors and you're likely not going to altering something yourself. I mentioned in another GC post of my admiration for the Alteration Centre on St. Anne St and I stick by that.

    For the novice suit buyer:
    I like a wool suit, wears better, photographs better, costs more but worth it
    Show 1/4 inch of cuff from underneath from sleeves
    Wear a tie of thickness relative to the width of your suit lapel
    Check to see if the chest pocket is covered by the lapel - sometimes you get a nice pocket square and then realise it's covered over
    Know within one size what you are generally before you go in anywhere. I'm a 38. I've worn 36s and 40s that fit but I've never gone beyond one size up or down
    Your trousers should sit on top of your shoes or slightly shorter if you like that. But there should not be a bunch of material and the leg should flow straight
    Look at the shoulders from the front and both sides and pay attention to what you're seeing. It should look like it fits, not dishevelled. Move your arms and see how the suit reacts.

    If you're not in a tailoring establishment when you buy the suit, go and get the suit altered and have them tuck and take it in in the right places. Can make all the difference.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭fits


    I was under the impression that you could walk into a good gentleman outfitters, they'd eye you up and pick out suits and fabrics to what you require. Most of the Dublin assistants can barely be bothered. Himself is 6"2 and a size 38 so he's a very particular build tbh and a lot of brands eg Hackett, just don't seem to fit him. Anyway, the search goes on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭TwoGuysDublin


    fits wrote: »
    I was under the impression that you could walk into a good gentleman outfitters, they'd eye you up and pick out suits and fabrics to what you require. Most of the Dublin assistants can barely be bothered. Himself is 6"2 and a size 38 so he's a very particular build tbh and a lot of brands eg Hackett, just don't seem to fit him. Anyway, the search goes on.

    Louis does have rolls of fabric and books and stuff that you can look at and piece together so maybe combine that way? You can still get a custom suit made obviously if you're willing to pay. Patrick Sheary on Clarendon St. is another that will do that.

    If he's that particular a shape, a newly made suit is the way to go. Will get expensive every time he needs a new suit though.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,420 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Louis does have rolls of fabric and books and stuff that you can look at and piece together so maybe combine that way? You can still get a custom suit made obviously if you're willing to pay. Patrick Sheary on Clarendon St. is another that will do that.

    If he's that particular a shape, a newly made suit is the way to go. Will get expensive every time he needs a new suit though.

    Best man around.

    Absolute gentleman and will go above and beyond for his customers.

    Edit- not cheap!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭TwoGuysDublin


    Slattsy wrote: »
    Best man around.

    Absolute gentleman and will go above and beyond for his customers.

    Would deffo agree on this. I've always liked the shop and the custom. Not just in it to get as much from you as quick as possible. If he's that particular a fit, give him a try.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭fits


    awec wrote: »
    What sort of fit is he after?

    Just classic fit. The really skinny suit trousers are a bit ridiculous looking imo. Getting the balance right for overall silhouette is tricky enough. A lot of his current suits are too baggy on him imo, but he needs length in the sleeves.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,420 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,529 ✭✭✭234


    awec wrote: »
    Are you sure he needs extra sleeve length? Loads of men think they do when they really don't.

    THIS!

    I've had salespeople tell me that suit sleeves should end at the base of the thumb. They shouldn't. The shirt cuff should and the suit should be short enough to show 3/4 inch of shirt cuff.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,420 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    This post has been deleted.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭TwoGuysDublin


    234 wrote: »
    THIS!

    I've had salespeople tell me that suit sleeves should end at the base of the thumb. They shouldn't. The shirt cuff should and the suit should be short enough to show 3/4 inch of shirt cuff.

    1/4 inch is enough. 3/4 inch would be too much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    The whole point in having the arms a bit short is to show off your cufflinks.
    You'll know yourself once the jacket is on, but give yourself enough room to the cufflinkss.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 54 ✭✭TwoGuysDublin


    Slattsy wrote: »
    The whole point in having the arms a bit short is to show off your cufflinks.
    You'll know yourself once the jacket is on, but give yourself enough room to the cufflinkss.

    I don't think when standing straight with arms by your side you should be able to see the cuff. It may be more traditional but it looks better.

    If you're into showing cuff have them short, yes. Personally I wouldn't wear a suit with arms so short you can see the cufflinks. I just think 1/4-1/2 inch of cuff on show, a nice bit of cuff looks far more refined.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,771 ✭✭✭✭fits


    awec wrote: »
    You said he's 6'2". Arm length is roughly related to height, and I'm 6'4" and only take regular length sleeves.

    He definitely needs long. Im sure he'll find something. March will probably be a better time of year to look and will check out some of the suggestions here.


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