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Radiator Pipe Run

  • 23-12-2014 5:33pm
    #1
    Site Banned Posts: 518 ✭✭✭


    hello folks,

    doing a complete re-plumb on a house soon. Old house and will have radiators. Thinking of using qualpex underground and copper above ground. It has been suggested to me, in order to avoid joints to use complete runs of pipe to each individual radiator, rather than running a large loop and T-ing off to each radiator. This will obviously mean a lot more pipe.
    So, my question is, would there be a lot more water needed? and maybe a bigger heating capacity?

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Site Banned Posts: 518 ✭✭✭eamon11


    130 views and no reply. Anyone?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    eamon11 wrote: »
    hello folks,

    doing a complete re-plumb on a house soon. Old house and will have radiators. Thinking of using qualpex underground and copper above ground. It has been suggested to me, in order to avoid joints to use complete runs of pipe to each individual radiator, rather than running a large loop and T-ing off to each radiator. This will obviously mean a lot more pipe.
    So, my question is, would there be a lot more water needed? and maybe a bigger heating capacity?

    Thanks in advance

    No

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,019 ✭✭✭anthonyos


    Get someone to do it because you are away of the mark on what and how to do the work and you haven't even started


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Why are you mixing qualpex and copper?

    Whats the concern with joints? You are going to have 6 at each rad anyway.


    Run 3/4 flow return and 1/2 to each tail.
    If its going to be in uninsulated areas (underground?) then use pipe insulation.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Wearb wrote: »
    No

    Who's been a naughty boy this year ?






    Santa forget you ?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Who's been a naughty boy this year ?






    Santa forget you ?

    No SCUDO..... he didn't forget me......................................he brought me a nice lump of coal :pac::pac::pac::pac::pac::pac:

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    eamon11 wrote: »
    hello folks,

    doing a complete re-plumb on a house soon. Old house and will have radiators. Thinking of using qualpex underground and copper above ground. It has been suggested to me, in order to avoid joints to use complete runs of pipe to each individual radiator, rather than running a large loop and T-ing off to each radiator. This will obviously mean a lot more pipe.
    So, my question is, would there be a lot more water needed? and maybe a bigger heating capacity?

    Thanks in advance

    Different plumbers have different preferences in piping. If done correctly the joints won't leak. Yes there will be less water to heat if you use tee's underground than a manifold system.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,444 ✭✭✭sky6


    There's a lot more information required to make a properly informed decision. Size of House type of House Bungalow two story, level of insulation Are you in a Hard Water area. Etc. You really need the assistance of a qualified heating engineer.


  • Site Banned Posts: 518 ✭✭✭eamon11


    DTP 1979, thanks man, you are the only one who answered.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    eamon11 wrote: »
    DTP 1979, thanks man, you are the only one who answered.

    GreeBo & Sky also did.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 459 ✭✭nmacc


    Using a manifold to distribute the water is very common on the continent. (They do this for the H & C as well)
    Makes it much easier to balance the system and, if you use an underfloor manifold, you can see the flow rate through each radiator and set it from one spot.

    If you were so inclined you could put a thermostat in each room and use underfloor actuators at the manifold to control the heat to each room individually, which is kinda neat.

    I did my own house that way, but it is a lot of work. You'll need a lot more pipe and insulation and more labour is required, so it will cost more. My main concern would be whether there is enough room for the pipes. I had great plans to over-insulate my piping, but that was before we started to lay the pipes in place. It proved very difficult to fit them all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 strabow


    Heres a tip. If you are going to use qualpex under the floor mske sure it can never leak. All cowboy jobs are done in qualpex where you cant see the pipes. Its cheaper on both matierials and labour. The thing with qualpex is that it is easiely manipulated into difficult to get to places which is good. The bad part is that if you exert pressure in the wrong place ie to close to a joint the qualpex can bend at the nut and leak. This happened in 12 places in my ceilings. In repairing the cockups from that plumber i redid the joints by using ptfe tape on both the brass joints thread AND around the brass ring. This will ensure a tighter seal. But you are better off creating a loop as you say and teeing off to each rad. it will help your boiler work more efficiently.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Op don't put tape around the threads on a compression. It's absolutely useless and any time I see it done I know an amature has been here before me.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    strabow wrote: »
    Heres a tip. If you are going to use qualpex under the floor mske sure it can never leak. All cowboy jobs are done in qualpex where you cant see the pipes. Its cheaper on both matierials and labour. The thing with qualpex is that it is easiely manipulated into difficult to get to places which is good. The bad part is that if you exert pressure in the wrong place ie to close to a joint the qualpex can bend at the nut and leak. This happened in 12 places in my ceilings. In repairing the cockups from that plumber i redid the joints by using ptfe tape on both the brass joints thread AND around the brass ring. This will ensure a tighter seal. But you are better off creating a loop as you say and teeing off to each rad. it will help your boiler work more efficiently.
    Did you use inserts on the joints,what your saying does not cause them to leak


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 strabow


    agusta wrote: »
    Did you use inserts on the joints,what your saying does not cause them to leak

    Yes there were inserts in place. Believe me the mess of the pipework when i opened the ceilings was disgusting. If you put pressure on the joint by forcing a bend through a joist it will leak not today or tomorrow but tomorrows tomorrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 strabow


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Op don't put tape around the threads on a compression. It's absolutely useless and any time I see it done I know an amature has been here before me.

    I was not refering to a compression fitting. As compression fittings dont have threads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33 kerryplumber


    strabow wrote: »
    I was not refering to a compression fitting. As compression fittings dont have threads.

    What kinda compression fittings have u got!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    strabow wrote: »
    I was not refering to a compression fitting. As compression fittings dont have threads.

    Compression fittings do have threads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    strabow wrote: »
    I was not refering to a compression fitting. As compression fittings dont have threads.


    Perhaps a good reason to put tape around them, so we know who we are dealing with ;)


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