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Land Cruiser

  • 16-12-2014 12:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,
    Just bought a 1998 LWB Toyota Land Cruiser recently, (KZJ95 model) the coolant in the rad. is just tap water, need to replace with correct coolant/anti freeze.
    There's no bung/plug on the rad. so I guess I'll have to take off the lower hose.
    To get to this hose do I have to strip off the sump protection plate or is there an easier way of draining the system ? Just wondering is there a plug on the engine somewhere.
    This is my first 4X4 so I'm on a big learning curve !
    Thanks all

    M.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,519 ✭✭✭TrailerBob


    Hi, haven't had to touch the rad on mine, but if you have a browse over on this forum you might get your answer easy enough. Plenty of help too, it's UK based.

    http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/forum.php


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    monseiur wrote: »
    Hi all,
    Just bought a 1998 LWB Toyota Land Cruiser recently, (KZJ95 model) the coolant in the rad. is just tap water, need to replace with correct coolant/anti freeze.
    There's no bung/plug on the rad. so I guess I'll have to take off the lower hose.
    To get to this hose do I have to strip off the sump protection plate or is there an easier way of draining the system ? Just wondering is there a plug on the engine somewhere.
    This is my first 4X4 so I'm on a big learning curve !
    Thanks all

    M.
    Usually there is a little tap bung on the bottom corner of the rad, is it original Rad or a replacement?
    My advice for you having put a miles on these.
    Change the Diff oils, transfer case and gearbox oils as soon as you can. The front diff only holds 1.2 litres and with fulltime 4x4 it works hard.
    The bungs are hard to get to in the front diff, hex sockets. Take the fill one out first and then the drain.
    Rear diff is easier and holds a little more oil 2.3IIRC
    Gearbox and transfer really need an oil pump to fill as they are above the chassis rails, you can do it with a squeezy bottle and some hose but its a pain.
    Grease all the driveshaft grease nipple in the Hardy-spicer joints as well while you have the plastic covers off.

    Make sure the cooling system is good, if it has aircon clean between the rad and the aircon evaporator as it can block with crap and lead to poor cooling which can lead to HG failure if not looked after.
    Rear tophat brakes can give hassle make sure they are adjusted correctly you may need to take the little crank arm off and weld and drill the hole so it doesn't get sloppy.

    Autobox? remove the cooling hoses from the radiator and fit a small oil cooler instead, something like a Carina E oil cooler is better and will prevent the coolant in the autobox problem.

    6000mile oil changes are good insurance, I used 15w40 Mobil Delvac mineral and never had any issues with oil usage.

    Timing belt is an easy job on these and the little T-Belt light will tell you when it needs doing. every 60k miles but the later D4D went to 90k intervals.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭monseiur


    Thanks TrailerBob & CJ Haughey, greatly appreciated.

    M.


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