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bicycle U lock that's not a pain in the proverbial

  • 27-11-2014 7:51pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭


    hi

    I currently have a kryptonite mini 7 evolution lock.


    http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_gb?ie=UTF8



    Seems a good lock but has some very annoying traits. first of all, to actually insert the key is a pain, it has to be wiggled and jiggled to get it fully inserted.

    and then when it is inserted it can take feckin ages to twist. It kinda gets caught and won't turn. This evening between everything it took me over 5 mins to open the bloody thing. I'm sure someday that ill just end up breaking the key inside the lock with all my messing.

    I've tried oiling it etc but no luck.

    can anyone recommend a decent U lock in the same security category as my kryptonite that is not hard to unlock ? or are they all a pain to unlock ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭Mec-a-nic


    I've tried oiling it etc but no luck.

    Never put oil in a lock you want to open more than a few times, it can jam the mechanism by getting gummy, or by carrying dust/dwarf into the tumbler. Lock mechanisms should already be low friction brass, and graphite is the preferred lube.

    Was your U lock always stiff? Could it have been damaged (bent) since you got it? If not, I'd return it to the shop for a replacement under warranty.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    Mec-a-nic wrote: »
    Never put oil in a lock you want to open more than a few times, it can jam the mechanism by getting gummy, or by carrying dust/dwarf into the tumbler. Lock mechanisms should already be low friction brass, and graphite is the preferred lube.

    Was your U lock always stiff? Could it have been damaged (bent) since you got it? If not, I'd return it to the shop for a replacement under warranty.


    twasnt always stiff. I don't think it's been damaged though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    I have a different kryptonite and no problem with the lock yet. Must have it about 3 yrs.

    I think yours might be faulty.

    Its a real pain if locking takes longer than it should. I changed my locks a couple of time till I found a combination that worked for me.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    BostonB wrote: »
    I have a different kryptonite and no problem with the lock yet. Must have it about 3 yrs.

    I think yours might be faulty.

    Its a real pain if locking takes longer than it should. I changed my locks a couple of time till I found a combination that worked for me.


    ah stop, its just the most annoying thing trying to open a bloody lock for 5 minutes, head wrecking, especially if weather is bad or your in a rush.

    Those onguard locks dont seem to be too bad


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    I've had the sticking issue with the Evo mini but fixed it by using spray lube in it. You just need to make sure you pick the right lube - you basically want a very light oil; thicker oils can gum up, sometimes by design, sometimes just because that's what they do.
    I use this on my bike because I'm a lazy fecker, but I've also found that it's great for freeing up lock mechanisms and other small things like that. I've had my evo mini for about 6 years now and only had to use this stuff on the lock twice.

    WD40 will work to flush out any crap, and initially free up the mechanism, but then you need to follow it up with lubricant. Once the WD40 has dried, the lock will become as stiff, if not stiffer again.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    seamus wrote: »
    I've had the sticking issue with the Evo mini but fixed it by using spray lube in it. You just need to make sure you pick the right lube - you basically want a very light oil; thicker oils can gum up, sometimes by design, sometimes just because that's what they do.
    I use this on my bike because I'm a lazy fecker, but I've also found that it's great for freeing up lock mechanisms and other small things like that. I've had my evo mini for about 6 years now and only had to use this stuff on the lock twice.

    WD40 will work to flush out any crap, and initially free up the mechanism, but then you need to follow it up with lubricant. Once the WD40 has dried, the lock will become as stiff, if not stiffer again.


    thanks, would GT 85 work ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 634 ✭✭✭return guide


    Never tried myself but father in law (who knows everything) swears by graphite (Pencil lead) to free up sticking lock mechanisms.

    shavings should be worked into the lock with the key.

    Hope it helps


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Yeah, GT85 should be a good choice. If nothing else it should free up the mechanism without drying out like WD40 does.

    Don't be afraid to sit there for five minutes doing nothing else but turning the key back and forth to make sure it gets worked all the way in.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    I tried ordering them before and they accept the order then said they were out of stock. So I gave up.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    BostonB wrote: »
    I tried ordering them before and they accept the order then said they were out of stock. So I gave up.

    which exact one ?
    and when did you try this ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    A month or so ago. It was bargain alert.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    seamus wrote: »
    Yeah, GT85 should be a good choice. If nothing else it should free up the mechanism without drying out like WD40 does.

    Don't be afraid to sit there for five minutes doing nothing else but turning the key back and forth to make sure it gets worked all the way in.


    Thanks. Previously I used oil and wd 40, so maybe that fecked things up. and its probably still lingering around inside.

    Whats the best way to "flush" or clean out the lock before I apply the GT 85 ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    The GT85 on its own is actually pretty good for clearing stuff out. WD40's a great degreaser though. A small splash of it in and turn the key to work it into the mechanism and clear the crap out. Get a couple of cotton buds in there too for a good clean. Then leave it half an hour with the keyhole facing down for anything to drip out.

    Then be very liberal with the GT85.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    seamus wrote: »
    The GT85 on its own is actually pretty good for clearing stuff out. WD40's a great degreaser though. A small splash of it in and turn the key to work it into the mechanism and clear the crap out. Get a couple of cotton buds in there too for a good clean. Then leave it half an hour with the keyhole facing down for anything to drip out.

    Then be very liberal with the GT85.

    Thanks very much. so would both sprays be just sprayed directly in to the barrel ?

    would I also leave the keyhole facing down after applying the GT 85 ?

    silly questions but I just want to be sure.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    seamus wrote: »
    The GT85 on its own is actually pretty good for clearing stuff out. WD40's a great degreaser though. A small splash of it in and turn the key to work it into the mechanism and clear the crap out. Get a couple of cotton buds in there too for a good clean. Then leave it half an hour with the keyhole facing down for anything to drip out.

    Then be very liberal with the GT85.

    I tried this at the weekend, started off with WD 40 and left it, then sprayed gt85 and spent a full 5 minutes twisting the key back and over. During this 5 minutes of twisting , all was perfect and no glitches and everything was smooth.


    Yesterday morning then the issues started happening again, same again this morning, pain in my b0llix......


    I heard some one mention the lead from pencil could be used to free things up.


    How would this work, get a knife and staring cutting the lead of a pencil on to a surface so you have some shavings, collect these shavings and kinda mash them up a bit, then put the shavings in to the barrel of the lock mechanism and twist back and over. Is that how it would be done ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 54 ✭✭Steo M


    Ah Tom, is this the same fella with the squeaky brakes?....
    Anyway, spray brake cleaner into the lock to clean out any gunk. Read the back of that GT85, some of those sprays like WD40 are just water repellents & mightn't be suitable for your lock. You can buy a small bottle of graphite oil in any bike shop, I got some in Delaney's on Harolds X Bridge.

    I'd say half the reason your lock is stiff is because the ball bearings or pins which lock the U part into the barrel are semi seized. They get rusty & need to be oiled as well, do this & I bet your lock will turn a lot easier.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    Steo M wrote: »
    Ah Tom, is this the same fella with the squeaky brakes?....
    Anyway, spray brake cleaner into the lock to clean out any gunk. Read the back of that GT85, some of those sprays like WD40 are just water repellents & mightn't be suitable for your lock. You can buy a small bottle of graphite oil in any bike shop, I got some in Delaney's on Harolds X Bridge.

    I'd say half the reason your lock is stiff is because the ball bearings or pins which lock the U part into the barrel are semi seized. They get rusty & need to be oiled as well, do this & I bet your lock will turn a lot easier.


    tis indeed steo, I'm having a bad time of things lately ;)



    so are you saying I should

    1. use break cleaner to clean the lock?
    2. use graphite oil to free things up a bit ?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 54 ✭✭Steo M


    Yep, spray the cleaner liberally into the lock & inside the barrel where those locking dogs are (correct name for them). If they're the ball bearing type, you should able to poke them around to clean the entire surface. Leave the barrel to dry off or if you have an air line (petrol station), blow all the crap out of it but watch you eyes.

    Oil the lock with graphite oil & I always put grease onto the locking dogs & on the notches of the U part (shackle) where they slot into. Once you put the shackle into barrel, the grease will get pushed into the dogs. This little service should last you through the Winter.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    Steo M wrote: »
    Yep, spray the cleaner liberally into the lock & inside the barrel where those locking dogs are (correct name for them). If they're the ball bearing type, you should able to poke them around to clean the entire surface. Leave the barrel to dry off or if you have an air line (petrol station), blow all the crap out of it but watch you eyes.

    Oil the lock with graphite oil & I always put grease onto the locking dogs & on the notches of the U part (shackle) where they slot into. Once you put the shackle into barrel, the grease will get pushed into the dogs. This little service should last you through the Winter.

    and will most bike shops have this brake cleaner. how much roughly for the brake cleaner and graphite oil ?

    jaysus..........grease also........on top of brake cleaner and graphite oil !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 54 ✭✭Steo M


    I do my own servicing so always have this stuff about, if you don't have these then use your degreaser by pouring a small bit down the lock & inside the barrel where the locking dogs are.

    Follow the rest of my other reply & just use your GT85 for the time being. The trouble with that stuff is it dries up fairly quickly & after a while you're back to square one again.

    Keep an eye on Aldi/Lidl, they do servicing & cleaning products from time to time.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    Steo M wrote: »
    I do my own servicing so always have this stuff about, if you don't have these then use your degreaser by pouring a small bit down the lock & inside the barrel where the locking dogs are.

    Follow the rest of my other reply & just use your GT85 for the time being. The trouble with that stuff is it dries up fairly quickly & after a while you're back to square one again.

    Keep an eye on Aldi/Lidl, they do servicing & cleaning products from time to time.


    get ya thanks. . thing is my lock is only 6 weeks old, it has no rust, always kept in underground car park with dust cover closed etc.

    Maybe it's just feckin faulty


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 54 ✭✭Steo M


    get ya thanks. . thing is my lock is only 6 weeks old, it has no rust, always kept in underground car park with dust cover closed etc.

    Maybe it's just feckin faulty

    Doubt it, Krypto's are one of the best locks on the market but as a result have a lot more moving parts inside them to stop them being easily opened. Sure try cleaning & oiling or maybe use the spare key in case the one your using is worn.

    If no joy then I think they have a lifetime guarantee so you'll get a replacement even if you've no paperwork for it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    Steo M wrote: »
    Doubt it, Krypto's are one of the best locks on the market but as a result have a lot more moving parts inside them to stop them being easily opened. Sure try cleaning & oiling or maybe use the spare key in case the one your using is worn.

    If no joy then I think they have a lifetime guarantee so you'll get a replacement even if you've no paperwork for it.


    Thanks. so how much roughly for this brake cleaner and graphite oil ??

    I might drop up to T Delaney's bike shop at Harolds X later........looks real old school and rustic.

    are they a helpful bunch ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 54 ✭✭Steo M


    Thanks. so how much roughly for this brake cleaner and graphite oil

    I might drop up to that bike shop at Harolds X later........looks real old school and rustic.

    are they a helpful bunch ?

    Yeah, they're okay, stuff is a bit pricey though, think I paid €7-8 for a small bottle of graphite oil. If you have a motor factors near you, try them first or if you can wait for a few days, buy online usually with free postage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 772 ✭✭✭GTDolanator


    I have a krypto Mini U lock,jesus must have it since 08 and have never had a problem!Some of the newer krypto's with the new style key can cause problems


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    I got sick to the bollix of the kryptonite mini 7. contacted seller, explained situation and they gave me a refund not a bother.

    I have now purchased


    http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008QTKVO2/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_gb?ie=UTF8


    Now it's a lot bigger than the kryptonite, but initial assessment of the locking mechanism is that it's so much smoother than the kryptonite.........no wriggling of key for 5 minutes trying to get the feckin thing in, no getting caught twisting it etc.


    my question is in relation to maintenance. should I maintain the new pitbull once a month ? or just wait until it starts getting kinda sticky ( the later may now ever happen)


    should I clean AND lubricate at the same time ?

    FYI : the bike will mostly be kept in a dry underground car park, or in a sheltered garage in work, only a very rare time will it get wet.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,852 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    You can get 3-in-1 in a dropper can in supermarkets. Put two drops in the keyhole once a week. Always worked for me, for all u-locks I've owned, which is a large number at this stage. Just leave keyhole pointing up for a few minutes after to let gravity draw the oil through the mechanism.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    You can get 3-in-1 in a dropper can in supermarkets. Put two drops in the keyhole once a week. Always worked for me, for all u-locks I've owned, which is a large number at this stage. Just leave keyhole pointing up for a few minutes after to let gravity draw the oil through the mechanism.


    think I know that stuff, it's in a red and white container.

    thing is I've heard using oil may "gunk" up the lock.

    I also have wd 40, gt 85, brake cleaner and graphite oil.

    actually just read the red label attached to the main key. see attached file.

    It specifically says to use wd 40 but then other people say run a mile from wd 40.........as it only cleans and is not a lube.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,852 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I've locks that I've used for over ten years with just frequent, very light oiling with a thin oil (usually 3-in-1). No problems. My Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit u-lock and Kryptolok Series 2 are both about five years old and running fine.

    It's a very cheap option too.

    EDIT: some misgivings about some oils is really about their suitability for chains. Lock mechanisms don't rotate hundreds of times an hour, so they don't need the same level of lubrication.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I've locks that I've used for over ten years with just frequent, very light oiling with a thin oil (usually 3-in-1). No problems. My Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit u-lock and Kryptolok Series 2 are both about five years old and running fine.

    It's a very cheap option too.

    EDIT: some misgivings about some oils is really about their suitability for chains. Lock mechanisms don't rotate hundreds of times an hour, so they don't need the same level of lubrication.

    ok. Thanks, fair enough.

    so essentially you just put a couple of drops where the key goes in and that's it...,,,,,,,,,,,.as in you don't bother putting it where the 2 ends of the u lock insert in to the main section of the lock.

    would it not be an idea to use wd 40 first to kinda clean it out and then use 3 in 1 oil


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,852 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I've never bothered with oil where the u-part meets the main bar. I try to keep oil to a minimum as I have to handle the locks all the time. I've never bothered with WD40. If the lock is new, as I think your current is, there isn't really anything to clear out.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I've never bothered with oil where the u-part meets the main bar. I try to keep oil to a minimum as I have to handle the locks all the time. I've never bothered with WD40. If the lock is new, as I think your current is, there isn't really anything to clear out.


    yeah, it's brand new.

    so when should I start adding the 3 in 1 oil ?

    now or just wait a few weeks - as it's so new .?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,852 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I guess start in a few weeks. I assume the lock has some lubrication in the mechanism after manufacture.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,083 ✭✭✭tom_tarbucket


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    I guess start in a few weeks. I assume the lock has some lubrication in the mechanism after manufacture.


    thanks again. final question, I promise. is the 3 in 1 oil you talk of the one below :


    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=15551&langId=-1&categoryId=301668&productId=204443&storeId=11101


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm



    That's it. Handy to have around house for door hinges etc. Also, I believe that the WD in WD40 stands for Water Dispellent.


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