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Fly tying time

  • 25-11-2014 4:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭


    Has any one opened the fly tying kit yet? Im dreading the mess haven't even looked since a very hectic September.

    Also how do ye guys disinfect your game bird feathers? Any new or novel ideas


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 580 ✭✭✭whelzer


    I have some very expensive capes/furs so would be fairly strict with new stuff, for wild fur or feathers I always;

    wash in warm soapy water - might even use the wifes' hair conditioner if she is not looking!
    treat any flesh (normally just for furs) with saltpeter, I pin piece to a board in my shed and check/re-treat every few days.
    Freeze for a few days
    Microwave for a few mins

    Repeat freezer/nuke steps 2-3 times.

    Finally put in zip lock bag with a few pieces of crushed moth ball.

    I hate moth balls (they are just evil) so recently got some ceder balls and are trying them out.

    For shop bought stuff - it depends on the shop but I will do some or all of the above...

    I have treated almost whole rabbit/hare skins, fox tails, pheasant and duck pieces, etc in this way.

    I know a guy that was sick for while and didn't tie much, came back to find his jungle cock and pricey metz/whiting capes chewed to bits so imho it pays to be careful with new materials.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 925 ✭✭✭okedoke


    Been there with the infestations - twice! Nightmare


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 234 ✭✭bluezulu49


    whelzer wrote: »

    I hate moth balls (they are just evil) so recently got some ceder balls and are trying them out.

    I'm not too fond of mothballs either. They do however work quite well.

    I tried cedar balls and found them quite useless both for clothes and feathers.

    I also tried naphthalene crystals which do work but dissolve more quickly than the mothballs.

    Currently using mothballs my wife got in a euro shop. They are very strong but appear to work.

    I keep all my feathers and furs from whatever source in preferably double ziplock freezer bags.
    Locally acquired feathers are frozen for a couple of months before storage in the fly tying area.


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