40+ and not progressing, seeking reassurance

n1st

I'm seeking feedback from fellow wanna beginner/intermediate surfers who share my predicament:
40+ and not really progressing with surf.


I'm 40 this year and have been trying to surf for 6 years now.
I've found the last couple of years particularly frustrating as my progression is not good enough.
I'm still struggling to get a decent ride, I mean stay up for more than 10 yards and turn.
After 6 years you'd think I'd have mastered these basics but see below.


Mistakes I've made :

-Started with too small a board, 7' 6", should have been on at least an 8ft probably a 9ft.
-Only took 1 lesson, should have focused on this first and also taken advice on what to buy etc. Nothing like talking to an experienced surf trainer.
-Wasting time travelling for bad or no surf. Spend more time finding out the details on your surf spot, tides, what conditions suit.


I've decided to get some help, surf lessons, Ive take 2 in the past 3 months and have gotten to great advice. Advice I should have taken years ago.
Also I've moved to an 8ft 2 board, I may go to 9ft early next year.

I've realized after talking to those who know more that you'll never be a great surfer if you only get out every other week.
Make your life as easy as possible, get the board that suits you, i.e. go big, 9ft +.
Take lessons every few months to correct your technique.

In short when you get older you won't have to spare time, so make every trip count.


Anyone out there to reassure me, is it time to throw in the towel?

cpoh1

How often are you getting in the water? You'd need to be getting 2-3 surfs a week to really make any progress and as much of a dose as it is your age wont be doing you any favours unless you're really fit for your age.

Swimming during the week is probably the biggest thing you can do to help you improve if you are city/land locked.

n1st

cpoh1 wrote: »

How often are you getting in the water? You'd need to be getting 2-3 surfs a week to really make any progress and as much of a dose as it is your age wont be doing you any favours unless you're really fit for your age.

Swimming during the week is probably the biggest thing you can do to help you improve if you are city/land locked.

For sure this is something I realized and was told in the past couple of years.
During the summer I might get out twice a week, winder only once a week at most.
I do swim 3 times a week, and yes this was something else I was advised todo, it does help a little for sure.

I presume there's lots of folks out there in the same boat.
Age + infrequent surf.

Is there any hope?

glide

Get a bigger board with float pm me if you want help on this
40 is nothing look at Kevin Cavey 70+ I made a board for him this year

spaceHopper

Where do you live?

n1st

glide wrote: »

Get a bigger board with float pm me if you want help on this
40 is nothing look at Kevin Cavey 70+ I made a board for him this year

70 is great but at what stage did he get the basics right.

Dr Nic

Im far from good but the things that helped me were getting a 9 foot board(westbay - great board). Losing weight and getting fitter and stronger in general. Taking a week long surf hol.

The biggest aha moment i had was my body placement on the board when im catching a wave. Rightly or wrongly i now arch my head and legs up so im like a U on the board with only about 10 inches of mybelly on the board. Catch so many more waves now...

Good luck

Sham Squire

Dr Nic wrote: »

Rightly or wrongly i now arch my head and legs up so im like a U on the board with only about 10 inches of mybelly on the board. Catch so many more waves now...

This.
Changed everything for me but it was as much developing the fitness/core strength to be able to do it as it was doing it.
BTW, I'm 40 next year :eek:

longshanks

Dr Nic wrote: »

The biggest aha moment i had was my body placement on the board when im catching a wave. Rightly or wrongly i now arch my head and legs up so im like a U on the board with only about 10 inches of mybelly on the board. Catch so many more waves now...

Good luck

What size board are you on?

rodento

Take it that at this stage you can get out back, catch a clean wave and can read charts

If that's the case surf smarter

Head when the breaks you are surfing are in optimal condition - ie. Light offshore wind, most suitable tide, decent swell with a good period etc.... Best head on a week day, really helps if the place is quite and empty

If you have a solid period ( anything over 10 secs) getting out back is a little easier, more time and the waves have more punch making them easier to take off on

Also shadow other surfers and watch were they sit, paddle for waves and how the take off.

Hope this helps