pipes over insulation or under?

eamon11

hello Folks,

I wonder if any of you good people could give me a little advice here.

I am at the plumbing stage on an old house which I am refurbishing.
Do I lay the dpc membrane first on the floor, then the insulation on top and then the pipes over the insulation, then screed?

Or do I lay the pipes direct to the floor with fasteners screwed down to stop movement, then dpc membrane then insulation and screed?

these will be normal heating pipes.

What is the norm.

All opinions welcome.
Many thanks.

Robbie.G

eamon11 wrote: »

hello Folks,

I wonder if any of you good people could give me a little advice here.

I am at the plumbing stage on an old house which I am refurbishing.
Do I lay the dpc membrane first on the floor, then the insulation on top and then the pipes over the insulation, then screed?

Or do I lay the pipes direct to the floor with fasteners screwed down to stop movement, then dpc membrane then insulation and screed?

these will be normal heating pipes.

What is the norm.

All opinions welcome.
Many thanks.

Dpc then insulation then pipework then screed

eamon11

thanks robbie,

is there a danger the screed workers will knock the pipes around a bit when laying the screed as they will not be secured anywhere?

corkgsxr

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks robbie,

is there a danger the screed workers will knock the pipes around a bit when laying the screed as they will not be secured anywhere?

There are special clips for pipes to insulation

eamon11

thanks corker,

my insulation will be aeroboard. Will these clips work with aeroboard?

corkgsxr

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks corker,

my insulation will be aeroboard. Will these clips work with aeroboard?

Just get the longer type

Dtp1979

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks corker,

my insulation will be aeroboard. Will these clips work with aeroboard?

Are you still allowed to use aeroboard?

agusta

eamon11 wrote: »

hello Folks,

I wonder if any of you good people could give me a little advice here.

I am at the plumbing stage on an old house which I am refurbishing.
Do I lay the dpc membrane first on the floor, then the insulation on top and then the pipes over the insulation, then screed?

Or do I lay the pipes direct to the floor with fasteners screwed down to stop movement, then dpc membrane then insulation and screed?

these will be normal heating pipes.

What is the norm.

All opinions welcome.
Many thanks.

What type of heating pipe are you using?,is it qualpex

eamon11

thanks for the replies

it will be copper. I got the aeroboard for free from my work.
They are meter square in 4 inch ,3 inch and inch thickness.
Thats why I am using it.

Corkgsxr , will these fixings be then bored through the 3 inch aeroboard?

Thanks

corkgsxr

It'd probably be a lot cheaper to use qualplex pipe in pipe

agusta

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks for the replies

it will be copper. I got the aeroboard for free from my work.
They are meter square in 4 inch ,3 inch and inch thickness.
Thats why I am using it.

Corkgsxr , will these fixings be then bored through the 3 inch aeroboard?

Thanks

Another idea for you,
What i have done in my house,

All pipes on ground floor are qualpex fitted inside a corrugated black sleeve.Two pipes from each radiator fed back to a manifold behind the utility units.All pipes fixed in position with plastic clips to the insulation.
Copper pipe fed from qualpex underground to the radiator just below the radiator.you can do this before or after pouring the concrete.
By doing it this way the only fitting you have underground are just below the radiators.The less fittings the less chance of a leak.Also if you had a leak you can test every pipe at the manifold

when pouring the concrete put some concrete over the pipe lines first to guarentee they are stable and then pour away as normal

eamon11

thanks a lot lads,

I am getting an idea of the situation now.

Agusta, that,s a good plan.

Can you tell me though, how this would work after you pour the concrete. Wouldnt you need to join the qualpex to the copper just below the radiator before(not after) you pour the final screed?

And, about the pipe runs, as you have a lot more pipe runs than doing it the traditional way, wouldnt this require a lot more water? and in turn a bigger heating capacity or maybe a bigger cylinder?

Lastly maybe Corkgsx can tell me, if these pipe clips are fastened to the floor by boring through the aeroboard, does it matter about the resulting hole in the damp proof membrane? Or am I overthinking the issue?

thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

braddun

what type of pipes,drainage pipes heating pipes


http://www.underfloorheatingsystems.co.uk/2013/05/screed-thickness-with-underfloor-heating-in-solid-concrete-floors/

eamon11

heating pipes, but come to thing of it there will be 1 or 2 drainage pipes too. But for now I am concentrating on the heating system first. That will be half inch copper or qualpex. No underfloor heating.

corkgsxr

eamon11 wrote: »

thanks a lot lads,

I am getting an idea of the situation now.

Agusta, that,s a good plan.

Can you tell me though, how this would work after you pour the concrete. Wouldnt you need to join the qualpex to the copper just below the radiator before(not after) you pour the final screed?

And, about the pipe runs, as you have a lot more pipe runs than doing it the traditional way, wouldnt this require a lot more water? and in turn a bigger heating capacity or maybe a bigger cylinder?

Lastly maybe Corkgsx can tell me, if these pipe clips are fastened to the floor by boring through the aeroboard, does it matter about the resulting hole in the damp proof membrane? Or am I overthinking the issue?

thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

They just push into the aeroboard. There not that long that they'd go all the way through.

You put a bag of sand over the end of the pipe. When floor is poured you left with a thin layer of concrete. Clear out the sand, connect and fill the hole

phester28

I would insulate pipe in pipe. I made the mistake of believing my plumber and heating pipes running alongside mains water now cause my cold tap to be very warm. I have to run for 30-40 sec to make it cold again. I was told the pipe in pipe is a good insulation but clearly it is not

agusta

Or if you want cut pieces of your left over floor insulation in 10" x 10" and place these below the rad pipes just below the level of the finished floor.pin them to the insulation underneath.you can peel out the insulation after.alternatively you could plumb the radiators and pour the floor then

eamon11

Agusta,

that is a good plan you have. But can you tell me about the pipe runs on your system. As you have a lot more pipe runs than doing it the traditional way, wouldnt this require a lot more water? and in turn a bigger heating capacity or maybe a bigger cylinder?

Cheers

eamon11

what exactly is pipe in pipe?

Calahonda52

eamon11 wrote: »

what exactly is pipe in pipe?

my quess is that the plumber put all the pipes in a duct, maybe 3" or 4: duct

Calahonda52

eamon11 wrote: »

Agusta,

that is a good plan you have. But can you tell me about the pipe runs on your system. As you have a lot more pipe runs than doing it the traditional way, wouldnt this require a lot more water? and in turn a bigger heating capacity or maybe a bigger cylinder?

Cheers

Maybe a bit but what I have is an individual motorised valve on each rad circuit and I can just switch off and on the rads I need
It also allows detailed zoning via time clocks if you wish: bathrooms, bed rooms, dog room etc

Finally what it allows is that individual radiators can be worked on without draining the lot if you put lever valves on each loos at the manifold.
Over kill? perhaps
Useful: very

dathi

Calahonda52 wrote: »

my quess is that the plumber put all the pipes in a duct, maybe 3" or 4: duct

no its this stuff
http://merchant.iitc.ie/detail.asp?p=960&m=32

phester28

Exactly what Dathi said

johneym

is pipe in pipe only to protect the internal pipe or does it insulate also?
Thanks

Dtp1979

johneym wrote: »

is pipe in pipe only to protect the internal pipe or does it insulate also?
Thanks

It offers no insulation