Saddle Height

pab01

Hi all, a while back someone posted a scan from a book giving a procedure for setting saddle height using a calculation of 111% (Ithink) leg measurement for saddle height when measured from pedal axel. I haven't been able to find thread so was hoping someone may have a copy they could post here. All i really need to know is do you add in the thickness of cleat and shoe sole, though at a guess I'd say yes.

Cheers in advance

Seaswimmer

I usually take off any shoe and with your leg straight your heel should just be grazing the pedal at its lowest point. When you put your shoe on then you have a slight bend in your leg. Always works for me.

cajonlardo

Cycling weekly had an article recently about calculating saddle height.

It suggested taking your cycling inseam and subtracting 10cm.

I have been reading about and studying bike fit for many years and had never heard this method. It seemed to simple to be anything other than a ball park method. So I got out the measuring tape was amazed to find that my own saddle was 9.93 cm less than my own inseam.Now, 7 mm is quite a bit BUT I have my cleats secured much further back than normal because of an injury - so far back I had to adapt the soles of my shoes. I know several people who've had professional fits from a very reputable coach (often mentioned here) and I got them to try it and without fail, everyone was between dead on and less than 5 mm off.

So, easiest method I know to get you extremely close is to measure your cycling inseam very carefully ( take an average over 4 efforts) and deduct 10 mm.

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/fitness/bike-fit/saddle-height-why-you-need-to-get-it-right-25379

G1032

cajonlardo wrote: »

Cycling weekly had an article recently about calculating saddle height.

It suggested taking your cycling inseam and subtracting 10cm.

I have been reading about and studying bike fit for many years and had never heard this method. It seemed to simple to be anything other than a ball park method. So I got out the measuring tape was amazed to find that my own saddle was 9.93 cm less than my own inseam.Now, 7 mm is quite a bit BUT I have my cleats secured much further back than normal because of an injury - so far back I had to adapt the soles of my shoes. I know several people who've had professional fits from a very reputable coach (often mentioned here) and I got them to try it and without fail, everyone was between dead on and less than 5 mm off.

So, easiest method I know to get you extremely close is to measure your cycling inseam very carefully ( take an average over 4 efforts) and deduct 10 mm.

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/fitness/bike-fit/saddle-height-why-you-need-to-get-it-right-25379

They say on the one hand that 5mm can have a big impact. Then they say to measure from center of bottom bracket....
All well and good if you've got the correct length crank arm. One guy could have a crank arm of 170mm and the other 175mm..... This method doesn't take that into account.......!!

Edit... They mention about crank length in the dos and don'ts. But no method for dealing with this variable.

thelawman

I've been looking into this lately, everywhere i look i get a different answer, I've never had a professional bike fit, but i can cycle as long as i want (100kms usually) without any aches and pains so i guess i can't be too far off the mark, I'm only a weekend wobbler so i don't care if I'm losing watts, but i was looking at pictures of pro riders and i did notice the huge difference in angle of their leg when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke, so i guess they all have different methods of measuring the "correct fit"

rayman1

Seaswimmer wrote: »

I usually take off any shoe and with your leg straight your heel should just be grazing the pedal at its lowest point. When you put your shoe on then you have a slight bend in your leg. Always works for me.

Same method works for me. Sit on the bike without one shoe. With the crank in line with the seat post, saddle is at the right height when your leg is straight. Putting on the shoe gives your leg the slight bend required at the knee.

pab01

Thanks for the replies all. Reason I asked about the method of setting saddle height from pedal axel is because it includes cranks which any method taken from bottom bracket doesnt. I just do t see how measuring from bottom bracket can work when crank lenght can vary. I ve been having knee pain and doctor (a keen cyclist) suggested raising saddle height. I just dont want to raise saddle without having a base height to work from.

rtmie

This web site has a calculator and instruction for height from pedal axle.

FISMA

pab01 wrote: »

All i really need to know is do you add in the thickness of cleat and shoe sole, though at a guess I'd say yes.

Pabo1, I think you're getting a bit technical. Are you really going to bust out the calipers, take measurements, and use sig-figs?

Although the formula may be a nice place to start. There is hardly a one size fits all formula for seat height.

My method is to put one of the crank-arms at the 6:00 position. The heel of your foot should just touch the crank at this bottom-most position. With this setup, your leg will be slightly bent, when you click in to the pedal.

Now go for a ride and bring the allen key. You'll need to adjust the height a bit. You may also need to adjust the pitch of the saddle. Occasionally, I have to adjust the yaw of the saddle too. Make sure you feel good spinning and on the power stroke.

G1032

rtmie wrote: »

This web site has a calculator and instruction for height from pedal axle.

My saddle height is exactly what this website tells me it should be.
But I'd say there is a lot more to it than just these simple measurements.
Flexibility for one.
And as others have pointed out here already the pros a set up so differently to each other. Whatever suits I suppose.

cajonlardo

FISMA wrote: »

Pabo1, I think you're getting a bit technical. Are you really going to bust out the calipers, take measurements, and use sig-figs?

Although the formula may be a nice place to start. There is hardly a one size fits all formula for seat height.

My method is to put one of the crank-arms at the 6:00 position. The heel of your foot should just touch the crank at this bottom-most position. With this setup, your leg will be slightly bent, when you click in to the pedal.

Now go for a ride and bring the allen key. You'll need to adjust the height a bit. You may also need to adjust the pitch of the saddle. Occasionally, I have to adjust the yaw of the saddle too. Make sure you feel good spinning and on the power stroke.

as long as you take into account that 6.00 is not where your leg is at its furthest extent

EDIT, always found this excellent http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/02/seat-height-how-hard-can-it-be/

Love this quote out of Hogg's article " now drop your seat 6mm. Why not drop your seat to last 3mm? Because not every day is the best day of your life."

Daroxtar

Try using one of these websites.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#type
http://www.argonautcyclecoaching.com/?p=bike-fit-calculator

Very comprehensive imho, obviously a pro bike fit will be better but if you want to get damn close then these are a good place to start

Brian?

Daroxtar wrote: »

Try using one of these websites.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#type
http://www.argonautcyclecoaching.com/?p=bike-fit-calculator

Very comprehensive imho, obviously a pro bike fit will be better but if you want to get damn close then these are a good place to start

I set up my bike a using the competitive cyclist calculator. Felt good.

Then I went for a bike fit. The difference was unreal. The minor tweaks make a huge difference.

Whoever said earlier that you may need to adjust your saddle pitch, I'd say no way. A saddle should be level.

Unknown Soldier

Brian? wrote: »

I set up my bike a using the competitive cyclist calculator. Felt good.

Then I went for a bike fit. The difference was unreal. The minor tweaks make a huge difference.

Whoever said earlier that you may need to adjust your saddle pitch, I'd say no way. A saddle should be level.

I'm with you

I OCD'd a lot of info from various bike sites, then had a Shimano bike fit done and saddle moved forward 20mm (I had the height right though) and the gains were ridiculous

Hani Kosti

Your saddle height is of my less than 1mm not 7!
Unless it's 9.3 not 9.93

aFlabbyPanda

rtmie wrote: »

This web site has a calculator and instruction for height from pedal axle.

The height was bang on when compared to my bike fit.

rtmie

The_Sub wrote:

The height was bang on when compared to my bike fit.

Good to know. Set up my new Rose based on this last week. Just got a couple of short spins in at the weekend but so far so good. Will hold off on a bike fit til I see how it goes for some longer outings.