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My Toyota Corolla won't start

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  • 30-10-2014 10:00pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 18


    Hi all,

    Long story short, I went to my car this morning at went to start it but no joy. The engine was cranking as if it was going to start but it just didn't spark into life.
    After searching the internet for the entire day I haven't really been able to find a solution to my problem. I have a 2000 Toyota corolla (e11)
    From what I have read I understand that it may be something to do with the immobiliser? Is there a way of resetting the immobiliser on these cars? Or am I going down the completely wrong road with this?
    Could it be something like spark plugs? Car was running perfect the last few months, just randomly out of the blue it wouldn't start.

    Before you ask yes there is petrol in it and yes I tried jump-starting it off another car and had the same problem so I'm pretty sure its not the battery

    Any help at all would be much appreciated :)


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    First thing to check would be the condition of the the spark plug leads, spark plugs and air filter. Doesn't sound like a battery or immobiliser issue.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Hows your crank sensor?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Interslice wrote: »
    First thing to check would be the condition of the the spark plug leads, spark plugs and air filter. Doesn't sound like a battery or immobiliser issue.

    Thank you for your reply :)

    Ya I removed engine cover and had a look at spark plugs and leads, but wasn't quite sure what I should be looking for. How would I know if spark plugs were bad?

    A friend of mine who knows a thing or two about cars thinks it could be a fuel pump issue? Whats your opinion on that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,501 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    Thank you for your reply :)

    Ya I removed engine cover and had a look at spark plugs and leads, but wasn't quite sure what I should be looking for. How would I know if spark plugs were bad?

    A friend of mine who knows a thing or two about cars thinks it could be a fuel pump issue? Whats your opinion on that?

    You would have to remove the coil packs and then get a socket set to remove the plugs, it's unlikely though that all would fail, if just one did the car would still start. Fuel pump issue sounds most likely.


  • Registered Users Posts: 400 ✭✭Daaryl


    Your altenator maybe?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    dgt wrote: »
    Hows your crank sensor?

    Im not exactly a genius when it comes to cars so I wouldn't know how to check. Any suggestions??


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    Thank you for your reply :)

    Ya I removed engine cover and had a look at spark plugs and leads, but wasn't quite sure what I should be looking for. How would I know if spark plugs were bad?

    A friend of mine who knows a thing or two about cars thinks it could be a fuel pump issue? Whats your opinion on that?


    I'd check the simple things first but ye you might end up checking fuel pump or crank sensor as above. Check the plug leads for cracking or damage along the cables or any corrosion in the sockets. Spark plugs should be fine unless they're ancient or water is getting into them. Check air filter for extreme mankyness.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Daaryl wrote: »
    Your altenator maybe?

    Don't think so buddy as we tried jump-starting it and was doing the exact same thing. That would be enough to prove it's not the alternator wouldn't it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    Im not exactly a genius when it comes to cars so I wouldn't know how to check. Any suggestions??

    This happened to a fella in a petrol station with a Starlet, filled up, back to the car, refused to start.

    Crank sensor was caked with crap, however that happened.

    A quick wipe, fired up again and was on his way.

    It mightn't be your exact issue but worth checking and eliminating the possibility.

    Talk to someone who can check it for you, whether be it dirty or failing


  • Registered Users Posts: 400 ✭✭Daaryl


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    Don't think so buddy as we tried jump-starting it and was doing the exact same thing. That would be enough to prove it's not the alternator wouldn't it?

    Happened with my toyota altezza back in january, It went and the car would not start at all.. Exactly what you said was happening to me


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Bongalongherb


    The engine on my mitsubishi colt was doing the same last week, and it only does it when it rains heavy for the night, then it just turns-over but will not start. Check the cable plugs on the distributor to make sure they have not come loose, and check for any damage.

    It could be a lot of other things though, but it will narrow it down by having someone like your friend to check it if possible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Interslice wrote: »
    I'd check the simple things first but ye you might end up checking fuel pump or crank sensor as above. Check the plug leads for cracking or damage along the cables or any corrosion in the sockets. Spark plugs should be fine unless they're ancient or water is getting into them. Check air filter for extreme mankyness.

    Just as you mention water getting into them, I was in a motor parts shop today and the guy in the shop recommended using Damp Start! would you recommend it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    dgt wrote: »
    This happened to a fella in a petrol station with a Starlet, filled up, back to the car, refused to start.

    Crank sensor was caked with crap, however that happened.

    A quick wipe, fired up again and was on his way.

    It mightn't be your exact issue but worth checking and eliminating the possibility.

    Talk to someone who can check it for you, whether be it dirty or failing

    I must google the crank sensor so and have a look at it in the morning, thanks for your help


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Bongalongherb


    Well I used damp start last week and sprayed all over the distributor-cap and cables when the engine was cool and distributor cap cleaned and my car starts grand now every day. It does the job for my particular problem. If you are having the same problem as me with car not starting after heavy long rains, then it should do the job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Joe Doe


    Indeed the only time years ago my old 1982 1.3 Corolla didn't start it was just dampness in the distributor cap it was only getting run in at that stage with 137,000 on the clock and was fine ever since...


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Well I used damp start last week and sprayed all over the distributor-cap and cables when the engine was cool and distributor cap cleaned and my car starts grand now every day. It does the job for my particular problem. If you are having the same problem as me with car not starting after heavy long rains, then it should do the job.

    Oh really? Thats good, I must try that in the morning so.. Did you just spray it on distributor cap or anywhere else? Did you leave it for awhile to set or can you fire up the engine straight away?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Bongalongherb


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    Oh really? Thats good, I must try that in the morning so.. Did you just spray it on distributor cap or anywhere else? Did you leave it for awhile to set or can you fire up the engine straight away?

    Make sure you get a damp rag and clean the outer casing of the distributor cap before spraying it over the cap. It needs to be nice and clean for a solid seal.
    Also, push in on the few plugs that connect directly to the distributor cap to make sure they are well in tight, as 3 of my cable plugs were half out when I checked last week.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Joe Doe wrote: »
    Indeed the only time years ago my old 1982 1.3 Corolla didn't start it was just dampness in the distributor cap it was only getting run in at that stage with 137,000 on the clock and was fine ever since...

    Could be distributor cap for me so. Its weird cause car has been running brilliant recently, serviced not that long ago and car has feck all mileage on it, only 115k


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Make sure you get a damp rag and clean the outer casing of the distributor cap before spraying it over the cap. It needs to be nice and clean for a solid seal.
    Also, push in on the few plugs that connect directly to the distributor cap to make sure they are well in tight, as 3 of my cable plugs were half out when I checked last week.

    Great stuff i'l defiantly have a go at that and see, cheers for the help :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Bongalongherb


    you first make sure connections on the cables from spark-plugs to distributor cap are all nice and pushed in tight. then spray it over the cap and under it not missing any part of this cap, then spray it over the 4 plug-cables and it should do the job. do it every 3 weeks, and the can of damp-start was only €4.65 thereabouts.

    One more thing, damp-start smells, but they say to keep the bonnet open after spraying for 15 minutes, so I'd do that as well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,285 ✭✭✭Frankie Lee


    Seeing as it is a 00 it is more likely to be a vvti and not have plug leads. Was the car moved a short distance the night before? If so it is likely to be just flooded and will kick off eventually. If not get it plugged in and take it from there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Seeing as it is a 00 it is more likely to be a vvti and not have plug leads. Was the car moved a short distance the night before? If so it is likely to be just flooded and will kick off eventually. If not get it plugged in and take it from there.

    ya its a vvti mate! ya last journey i made in her was only about a mile. that was at around 1 oclock yday, hadn't touched it again until this morning when the problem started.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Seeing as it is a 00 it is more likely to be a vvti and not have plug leads. Was the car moved a short distance the night before? If so it is likely to be just flooded and will kick off eventually. If not get it plugged in and take it from there.


    Have been wondering this since replying to the OP...


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 scon2o1o


    Interslice wrote: »
    Have been wondering this since replying to the OP...

    yes interslice its a vvti and ya did a short journey yday at about 1 oclock (about a mile) hadnt touched it again til today when the problem started


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭whizbang


    serviced not that long ago

    My bet is wrong spark plugs. Was an independant mechanic that serviced it?

    Goto Toyota with the registration or Vin no. and get the correct plugs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    scon2o1o wrote: »
    yes interslice its a vvti and ya did a short journey yday at about 1 oclock (about a mile) hadnt touched it again til today when the problem started


    Maybe google the flooding problem. If you hold down the accelerator while cranking it should go into a clear flood mode. I've removed the plugs before and turned it over to do the same, but health and safety brigade will be onto you for that!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,562 ✭✭✭kyote00


    Distributor cap in a 2000 vvti corolla ? Surely its coil pack(s) and electronic ignition.

    Given that the engine is tuning over on the starter, its either spark or fuel...
    - do you get a fuelly smell when turning over -- if yes, then most likely fuel pump is fine and the problem is lack of spark

    - for lack of spark, it could be failed coil pack or failed crank sensor (if it has one)

    Finally if the car has an immobilser, then worth checking the little red secutity/key light behaves the same as it do before
    you first make sure connections on the cables from spark-plugs to distributor cap are all nice and pushed in tight. then spray it over the cap and under it not missing any part of this cap, then spray it over the 4 plug-cables and it should do the job. do it every 3 weeks, and the can of damp-start was only €4.65 thereabouts.

    One more thing, damp-start smells, but they say to keep the bonnet open after spraying for 15 minutes, so I'd do that as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    kyote00 wrote: »
    Distributor cap in a 2000 vvti corolla ? Surely its coil pack(s) and electronic ignition.

    Given that the engine is tuning over on the starter, its either spark or fuel...
    - do you get a fuelly smell when turning over -- if yes, then most likely fuel pump is fine and the problem is lack of spark

    - for lack of spark, it could be failed coil pack or failed crank sensor (if it has one)

    Finally if the car has an immobilser, then worth checking the little red secutity/key light behaves the same as it do before

    thank heavens someone said it.

    a 2000 1.4 corolla has pencil coils not a distributor and leads.

    it has 4 individual pencil coils and the chances of all 4 giving in at once are virtually nil, so it's almost certainly not a lack of spark issue.

    if it's turning over i'd imagine it's not immobiliser related as the car wouldn't even attempt to start if the immobiliser wasn't deactivated.

    easiest way to check if it's a fuelling issue is to buy a bottle of easy start (even most tesco's sell it) and follow the instructions (carefully!) on spraying it into the intake and if the car starts, even momentarily, then you aren't getting fuel.

    given the nature of those 1.4 vvti engines and their tendency in some cases for chain stretch i'd say it's a crank pickup issue too. the chain tensioner is also hydraulic, how is your engine oil level?


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,536 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Re: immo. You have red LED blinking at you (just below hazard lights switch). If it goes off after you put keys into ignition - it means immo's deactivated. If it keeps blinking it means immo's still active.

    It's more than likely fuel pump just died.

    Also, would recommend to read fault codes to make sure what sensor give wrong readings (or no readings), if it's sensor's fault of course.

    And try this: disconnect battery for 10 minutes, connect, take a seat, push both clutch and throttle pedals and crank the engine for a minute or even more (while both pedals kept pushed). Because engine may be flooded.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,562 ✭✭✭kyote00


    Some really off the wall suggestions in this thread ..... at this stage, we cant rule out alien abduction
    joujoujou wrote: »
    push both clutch and throttle pedals and crank the engine for a minute or even more (while both pedals kept pushed). Because engine may be flooded.


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