Back Boiler open fire

ODriscoll

Have a back boiler on a open fire, been there years I think it is a firebird challenger type.

This has developed a small leak from the top shelf part of boiler and whilst something like quick steel putty would probably fix it (at least for a winter), I can't see it to clean properly first, as where it is seeping from is covered in soot and fire cement.

I know of course I will have to get it changed soon, but being short of funds I was wondering if there was any way to get another winters use out of it.

I was thinking along the lines of something like wondaweld,& have read someone online who claims to have used it successfully for a similar issue.

However!

Are there any risks to causing more damage to the good working parts like radiators or the coil in the cylinder.
I don't mind trying 20 euro as a chance, but not if it means causing extra issues.
But could really do with not spending any real money on a new system this winter.

Wearb

ODriscoll wrote: »

Have a back boiler on a open fire, been there years I think it is a firebird challenger type.

This has developed a small leak from the top shelf part of boiler and whilst something like quick steel putty would probably fix it (at least for a winter), I can't see it to clean properly first, as where it is seeping from is covered in soot and fire cement.

I know of course I will have to get it changed soon, but being short of funds I was wondering if there was any way to get another winters use out of it.

I was thinking along the lines of something like wondaweld,& have read someone online who claims to have used it successfully for a similar issue.

However!

Are there any risks to causing more damage to the good working parts like radiators or the coil in the cylinder.
I don't mind trying 20 euro as a chance, but not if it means causing extra issues.
But could really do with not spending any real money on a new system this winter.

Best solution is probably to remove it and have it professionally welded. Trouble is that there may be lots more weak parts in it.
Hopefully someone else will be able to suggest a cheaper option.

ODriscoll

Wearb wrote: »

Best solution is probably to remove it and have it professionally welded. Trouble is that there may be lots more weak parts in it.
Hopefully someone else will be able to suggest a cheaper option.

Thinking that myself, as it will likely have other weak patches ready to leak.

I was surprised that you can still get them new for around 350, and I could manage that just about, but if I go to the trouble of taking it out I think I will go to a stove & boiler.

And I cant afford that now, so need to save & was hoping to confirm that something like wondaweld might work ok for a temporary fix.

As long as I know it can do no real harm then I will chance it.

The system is not pressurised has a open expansion tank in loft, so I am thinking, worst it could do was clog up a radiator valve!!

Hopefully someone as broke & tight as me knows the score.

scudo2

Disconnect or replace ASAP

It's paper thin in places now. High risk of house flooding if it gets bad.
A patch is only a patch.
Common sense really.
Sorry.

Wearb

If -as Scudo suggests- its paper thin in places, then your rads might not be far behind. Sadly your whole heating system needs a good looking at. Either way you are going to be none the wiser until you remove the back boiler.

ODriscoll

Thanks for the feedback lads.

I have used inhibitor since I have been here (decade) and had the rads all off the wall last year to physically flush them through, thankfully they are all fine.

The back boiler is likely 20 years old, maybe 30! so it has done a fine job in perspective.
However I have heard of older brands of back boilers going strong over 50 years on.

I hope more than doubt it is paper thin in general wear mind, as they don't appear to rust through like that, or at least this one hasn't, it appears all solid still apart from the top leading edge and I am guessing (as can't see) there it is blistering out along a weld seam.

Still hoping someone knows if wondaweld or similar might be worth a chance & even if not at worst be no extra concern upon failing. & can just flush through.

Would like to get this winter out the way & have the money to decide the best option.

scudo2

Wearb wrote: »

If -as Scudo suggests- its paper thin in places, then your rads might not be far behind. Sadly your whole heating system needs a good looking at. Either way you are going to be none the wiser until you remove the back boiler.

Previously I found (quite a few times) that the rads are ok.
Leak on back boiler due to a combination of rain down the flue, mixing with soot and cement causing corrosion, it only seems to happen at the top.

I'd "STRONGLY" recommend not chancing it.

But I'm not to pushed as it's not in my house !

ODriscoll

Ironically I was just after shining a torch up the chimney & wondering how it failed, it occurred to me that the top is where cement and soot & rainwater are in contact.

So the advice makes perfect sense & I can now visualize the apparent rest of the solid boiler in a different context.

So going to rip it out & fit new boiler shame as I would have preferred to save & wait for a stove & boiler.

Do you fit these for a living?

If so, when I come to fit the replacement, is there any better way to fit the cement layer on top (flaunching!!) & any advice for type of boiler!

& whilst they appear sound (or at least the cylinder end I can currently sight) would you replace the copper piping from boiler to the cylinder or not bother!
Looks very thick and old style copper piping, maybe good! or not!!

Thanks Guys again

scudo2

Pipes should be fine.

RubyGirl

ODriscoll wrote: »

Ironically I was just after shining a torch up the chimney & wondering how it failed, it occurred to me that the top is where cement and soot & rainwater are in contact.

So the advice makes perfect sense & I can now visualize the apparent rest of the solid boiler in a different context.

So going to rip it out & fit new boiler shame as I would have preferred to save & wait for a stove & boiler.

Do you fit these for a living?

If so, when I come to fit the replacement, is there any better way to fit the cement layer on top (flaunching!!) & any advice for type of boiler!

& whilst they appear sound (or at least the cylinder end I can currently sight) would you replace the copper piping from boiler to the cylinder or not bother!
Looks very thick and old style copper piping, maybe good! or not!!

Thanks Guys again

I had a back boiler in my house and only pulled it out this year. It's in perfect condition I just changed over to boiler insert. You are welcome to take the old boiler if your in my area. It's 9 years old. I'm n Galway.