Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

scopetronic

  • 15-10-2014 8:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭


    Hi guys was in a house today with a scoptronic. There is a pir connected into the alarm terminals of zone 1 and the tamper terminals are shorted out. the screen keeps reading t1 which I know means tamper on zone 1 but the tamper circuit is shorted out on that zone as I already mentioned.
    strange thing is that inside the lid the installer has written in marker 't1 = 1.3ohm'
    there is no resistor inside the pir itself just 4 cables going there , 2 for power and 2 for the alarm circuit.
    any ideas guys?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hi guys was in a house today with a scoptronic. There is a pir connected into the alarm terminals of zone 1 and the tamper terminals are shorted out. the screen keeps reading t1 which I know means tamper on zone 1 but the tamper circuit is shorted out on that zone as I already mentioned.
    strange thing is that inside the lid the installer has written in marker 't1 = 1.3ohm'
    there is no resistor inside the pir itself just 4 cables going there , 2 for power and 2 for the alarm circuit.
    any ideas guys?

    Sounds like an issue with the tamper input itself.
    Did you try powering the system down and back up?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,071 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    Panel is ancient, more than likely a dry solder joint on the board


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭John Kelly of


    altor wrote: »
    Sounds like an issue with the tamper input itself.
    Did you try powering the system down and back up?
    well when I got there it was dead so the answer is yes I suppose.
    its a weird type of pir which looks a bit like an astec pir with the terminals on the base and the electronics on the lid which has pins that fit into the base. I suspect its an issue with the pir itself which must have a resistor built into it as they have written that message inside the lid.
    I just realised that perhaps they have made zone 1 dual end of line or something so I might try and put a scopetronic resistor across the alarm terminals in the panel and see does that clear it.
    I'll tell ye what happens anyways thanks guys


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    Sounds to me like one of those old Gardiner type beams.
    If there was a resistor in this equation then it would be where the terminal block is on the base.
    I have fitted quite a few Vista and Home guard panels in my time, I have never come across end of line resistors on either.
    If your tamper loop is shorted out and the fault condition is saying that same zone then your problem is more than likely with the panel itself.
    As has been previously mentioned it is a bit like myself and is ancient.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    well when I got there it was dead so the answer is yes I suppose.
    its a weird type of pir which looks a bit like an astec pir with the terminals on the base and the electronics on the lid which has pins that fit into the base. I suspect its an issue with the pir itself which must have a resistor built into it as they have written that message inside the lid.
    I just realised that perhaps they have made zone 1 dual end of line or something so I might try and put a scopetronic resistor across the alarm terminals in the panel and see does that clear it.
    I'll tell ye what happens anyways thanks guys

    It could be the measured resistance on the cable for the PIR itself.
    As Kub has pointed out no end of line resistors would of being used with the scopetronic.
    If the system has been previously powered down then the fault may be the reason for this in the first place.
    Only other thing to try would be a factory default on the system, nothing to lose if it does not work.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭John Kelly of


    ok thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 HighFlyR


    Would anyone have a engineers manual for a scopetronic homeguard? Its been the best part of twenty years and I'm a little rusty!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I PMed it to you in reply to your other post.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Hi, I have a scopetronic and the power was cut by gas men in placing a new boiler. When they found they blew a fuse, they fixed it but now t3 appears on panel. What isengineers code to reset this? I tried 1234 but did not work. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    kahu wrote: »
    Hi, I have a scopetronic and the power was cut by gas men in placing a new boiler. When they found they blew a fuse, they fixed it but now t3 appears on panel. What isengineers code to reset this? I tried 1234 but did not work. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Thanks

    That is a tamper fault that you have on Zone 3, it could be a damaged cable or a cover is loose or removed on a detector. A code will not reset that condition.
    Have a look in the area that those lads were working in and just double check visually that the alarm equipment and cables are ok there.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Thanks kub. To try to find the cause the sparks removed the cover off the panel but did not do anything.Would this cause t3?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    kahu wrote: »
    Thanks kub. To try to find the cause the sparks removed the cover off the panel but did not do anything.Would this cause t3?

    Have you got a Homeguard or a Vista 5 panel?

    If you have a Vista 5, all of the cable terminals are on the back of the panel door and I know in the past that snagged cables could very easily be yanked accidently out of their respective terminals.
    However the fault condition for a panel cover on both panels was 'tl'


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Homegaurd


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    kahu wrote: »
    Homegaurd

    Well removing the panel lid on Homeguard should not affect the tamper of Zone 3.
    What I did find with the Homeguard though was the cover tamper could sometimes be awkward to line up but as I said that condition is more a TL than a T3.
    Take out a small screwdriver and just tighten the covers of all the devices on Zone 3.....hopefully that will sort it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Thanks Kub.. Looking at it closer, itis tL and not t3 as previously said. sorry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    kahu wrote: »
    Thanks Kub.. Looking at it closer, itis tL and not t3 as previously said. sorry

    Not to worry, if you have a minute and if there is someone there with you.
    Get them to stand by the keypad to enter the code if the system activates.
    Your job is get a screwdriver loosen the top screw of the lid and open it from the top side first, when out about an inch lift it slightly and remove it.
    Please proceed with caution as there is mains power in there.
    Now look at the back of the lid, in the middle at the bottom there is a tongue which marries up with the base platform.
    Now reset it bottom first as in bring it in at an angle so that little tongue lines up with the platform.
    As you are closing in the top of it move it slowly and hopefully you will hear the little spring click closed.
    Good luck with it, take your time and be patient


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Thanks a mill Kub..will try that....thanks again..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    The keypad was the only one to have been removed. I removed it again with the siren sounding a couple of times. It is off now and I may wait till tomorrow to put it back on. I cant see any6 spring. I think you may be thinking of the other box that holds the battery?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,562 ✭✭✭kub


    kahu wrote: »
    The keypad was the only one to have been removed. I removed it again with the siren sounding a couple of times. It is off now and I may wait till tomorrow to put it back on. I cant see any6 spring. I think you may be thinking of the other box that holds the battery?

    Yes I was indeed thinking of the control panel sorry. So its the keypad, I hope the spring isn't missing. It should be approx half way between the # button and the cable terminals.

    So in that case your fault code should have been 'tr'


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 LastWord


    KoolKid wrote: »
    I PMed it to you in reply to your other post.;)

    Can you also send to me please


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Done.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 kahu


    Thanks for your help Kub. all fixed now... both boxes had been opened and both now closed correctly with springs in place. Cheers


Advertisement